FriedClams

Paul, Keith, John and Dan, thank you for your kind and generous comments and to all for the "likes". 3D modeling seems to be popping up everywhere in scale model building so it’s time to give a try. I’ve always enjoyed the process of hand scratching detail parts, and I have no intention of giving that up. But I’m also aware of my limitations and previous projects have suffered from some ham-handed constructions and 3D modeling will help solve this problem. So, the Pelican will be a mix of printed and handmade details. I designed all the printed parts used in this model specifically for the Pelican. It is solid modeling done with FreeCAD. I created the files but didn’t do the actual printing myself. I don’t see myself using a 3D printer enough to justify owning one, but that could change as consumer units continue to improve and drop in price. Anyway, I uploaded all my STL files to a commercial printer (Print a Thing) and the parts were delivered in less than a week. The total cost for these printings was around $33 US including shipping, tax and setup fees. I ordered extra copies of each part thinking some might be deformed due to their tiny size and fragility, but this was unnecessary. These are likely all the parts I’ll be printing for this model unless I run into trouble scratching something. So here they are and just as I received them. No cleanup has been done to them. Stereolithography (SLA), opaque white resin. Below are the deck mounted winch cable guides. It would have been an effort to scratch one of these from styrene let alone four of them identically. I left off the bolt-down washers and hex heads because they wouldn’t have printed well in this scale. Instead, I’ll place injection molded bolt heads from either Grandt Line or Tichy Train. Here they are on an actual dragger (circled on the right). Above on the left is a different cable guide under one of the four gallows frames. There are three different warping/gypsy heads. I have about 14 cleats of several different sizes. The two largest shown here are monsters (40” (102cm)) that bolt to the deck on top of the whaleback. I didn’t realize cleats were made that large. This is another example where making two precisely the same would be a challenge – as least for me it would. The main winch cable drums, brake drums, pinion and bull gears. I only need one each of the gears, but I created different width versions because I haven’t thought through the details of the winch yet. The spooling drum diameter is very large in relation to its flanges, and I did this to reduce the amount of cable I’ll have to wind. And finally, the air intake cowls. The forward cowl has an integral mounting and rotation flange, but for the engine room intake I created the flange separately so I can adjust the height as need be. It’s the same cowl with a longer duct pipe. I added hex bolts to these flanges and with the naked eye they look alright, but under magnification look more like rivets. My initiation into 3D modeling design was a positive experience and only left a few minor scars. It is rewarding to create parts unique to a project that could have been a real pain to make or at least to make well. There is certainly a learning curve with 3D modeling and at times I was perplexed. But eventually all the loose marbles in my head found holes to drop into and the light bulb turned on. It’s easier than you might think. Now back to the boat model. Thanks for looking. Gary

Great progress, Craig. Looking extremely nice. Gary

Nice progress on the Constitution, Glen, really like the J. Ladders. Good news on the award but so sorry to hear about that bottle crack - what a bummer! I’ve heard downing a half bottle of Sailor Jerry can fix that. Gary

Very nice work on those steam engines, Keith. That’s difficult modeling- putting two things side-by-side and making them look the same. Good to hear you’re putting a dredger on the to-do list! Gary

Congrats on a very nice SIB, Roel! I agree with Glen, a unique subject and a quality build. Gary

Phil - S scale is 1:64 so an S scale 1" x 10" is equivalent to 1/64 x 5/32. Mt Albert Scale Lumber in Canada sells S scale lumber in 16" lengths and is available in bulk pricing (minimum of 50) if you need a bunch. Scroll down at the link below to see dimensions. https://handlaidtrack.com/product/stb-s-1x10-16/?v=0b3b97fa6688 They also sell packages of 6 if you need just a few. https://handlaidtrack.com/product/st-s-1x10-16/?v=0b3b97fa6688 Gary

Nice progress and recovery on the rahschlup! I've learned that mishap mitigation is an important skill in modeling. Gary

Excellent progress, JC. And it bears repeating - beautiful job on the planking. Gary

Nice work, Roel - looking very good. Interesting - never thought about that. Gary

Dang - beautiful indeed, Valeriy! My only complaint is that you built it too quickly leaving us wanting more. Extraordinary modeling! Gary

Terrific tiny work on that wheel, Keith! Are you sure this is 1:120? I also would like you to do another working sternwheeler - we all would. Better get started on the research. Gary

Congratulations on starting a new project, Paul. This is an interesting and eye-catching subject and I look forward to watching you bring her to life. I haven't taken a look at the HAER plans for this vessel, but typically they are rather complete, and I hope they don't leave you having to guess at too much. At 36" and with such a complicated pilothouse/quarters structure this strikes me as an ambitious project. I'm pulling up a chair and wishing you the best of luck. I know this is going to be a fantastic model! Gary

Very nice work, Håkan! Gary

Thank you, Keith, Glen, John, Paul and Druxey for your kind comments and to everyone for hitting the "like" button. It is great to have your support! A quick update. Before continuing on with the whaleback, I backtracked and completed some basic boat work aft of midships that I should have done earlier. This work includes the covering boards, the main rail and deck planking. My process is not explained here because I’ve bored you with all that in a previous post when doing the forward deck. One item worth mentioning is the rail around the stern that I laminated from eight thin strips and a significant amount of PVA. The deck has been rough sanded but will need additional smoothing, scraping and coloring in due course. A scale 26” (66cm) diameter brass ring frame has been installed to receive a lazarette cover and also a 12” (30.5cm) ring frame for the access plate above the rudder stock. The break deck sits 8” (20.3cm) higher than the forward deck and will eventually be fitted with an 8” extension cap. And a couple of overall photos. So, with that done and off my mind, I’ll be returning to the whaleback for detailing. Be safe and stay well. Gary

Bloody ice - take care of that arm, Keith. Gary

Good to hear your wife is doing well in her recovery, John. Klondike's hull is coming along nicely. It's always a good feeling when the hull sanding is done. Gary

Excellent progress, JD - she's going to be beautiful. Gary

Been reading through your log, JC and have enjoyed the historical background and research that you've provided. Thanks for that. Regional boats built for specific needs are typically designed for cost effectiveness and ease or repair, but I'm often amazed at how charming they can be. This new project of yours is such a boat, and you're doing a great job on it so far. Keep at it. Gary

This sharpie model of yours is just wonderful, Paul and she presents gracefully in the final glamour shots. Congratulations. Every detail of her construction was carefully and cleanly executed. Excellent work by anyone's standards and you should be rightfully proud. Knowing this was your first scratch build quite frankly blows my melon. You were obviously a gifted modeler before this project, but now you've gone and raised the bar on yourself. BTW, your log was interesting and informative as well, and whatever you decide for the next project, I do hope you share it with us. Gary

Been reading through your log, Roel and just caught up. As others have already stated - fantastic detailing in this tiny model! The photos of this project with your Chaconia in the background creates quite the juxtaposition. It makes me smile. Excellent modeling! Gary

Splendid work as always, Valeriy. I agree with Tony on his assessment of the small hooks, in fact I'm still wiping the drool from my chin. Nice jig for the prop which come out wonderful. Gary

Nice update on Twilight, Craig! Quite a bit of progress has been made on her and she's looking great. Coming along nicely! Gary

Recently found your new project log and have read through it in its entirety. Excellent research and an interesting read. Question - did you choose acrylic glass over polystyrene because you had a readily available cache of it, or does it machine and hold edges better? As you know styrene is a favorite of many model makers for its available thicknesses, workability and solvent welding. Not questioning your decision of course - simply curious. Looking forward to following this project and watching you perform your tiny scale magic! Gary

Another fantastic SIB, Glen! I can only repeat what others have already said. As always, an exceedingly creative project expertly executed. I stated previously that your Banshee was my favorite, but now, well . . . Wonderful model and a fun build log - keep them coming! Gary

Greetings friends. Thanks to all for your visits, the kind comments and the "likes". It is great to be able to share a hobby with such folks as you and I hope you all have a great 2025. @Keith Black - please forgive my negligence in thanking you for your holiday wishes. You are very thoughtful, and I sincerely wish you and Maggie a happy and healthy new year. Whaleback Continued Well, I haven’t accomplished a great deal on the Pelican since the last posting a month ago, but here’s what I have got done. Continuing on with the bow whaleback, I’ve enclosed the structure with side planking and roofing. But before I was able to do that, I first needed to install the main rail for it to sit on. The rail is made of two wood strips laminated together which together scale to 9” in width by 3”. Even though this lamination creates a seam down the rail’s center, it will eventually be covered buy additional rail, caps or in the case of the whaleback, planking. I cut profiles of the forward rails from corrugated cardboard and glued them to a larger flat piece of corrugated. The wood strips were glued together with PVA and pinned against the cardboard profiles. They were then attached to the boat. In the photo below the aft wall of the whaleback is already in place but getting it in there was an unanticipated fight. Before the rail, the section simply dropped straight down in. After the rail was attached, one end of the wall had to be fitted around it and then the other end swung into place. But the opposite end could not swing into place because it couldn’t clear the bulwark stanchions no matter how I tried to bend and wedge the wall past it. I ended up breaking the wall into two pieces, fitting the opposite end in and then gluing it back together. The break can be seen below in the vertical siding. Next, the P/S side planking. Each was made of three individual planks edge glued together, then cut to shape and finally heat bent. Four roof/deck beams were bent and cut. I added gussets to the longest two so the bend can’t relax. The roof is outlined in red in the drawing below. Note that it overhangs the front of the companionway doghouse and extends to (and partially surrounds) the forward mast. This roofing structure was made off the model and in two pieces. The main section of roof/deck is scale 3” x 2” boards glued to paper but not to each other. The doghouse section is made of thinner material of the same width. The flat overhanging portion is edge glued and will eventually have visible underside structure. The sections are glued to the boat with generous amounts of PVA and the main roof is trimmed and sanded flush to the side planking. Wood that was bent to match the slight arc of the roof was attached to the square cut boards to extend the overhang and provide structure for the fascia and other trim that will be added in the future. Below, the ends are still untrimmed. In the era this boat was built, there were three ways wooden boat roofs were typically waterproofed. One was to mop hot tar or pitch on it. A second method was a covering of canvas tarps treated with oil-based paints. And finally with sheets of thin rubber membrane. I don’t know for certain how the Pelican’s roofs were done, but I’m going with rubber for its durable and also because the other two methods seem antiquated this late in the period. But what do I know? I began by painting everything flat black. Once that was dry, I smeared a 50/50 water/PVA mix on and then laid down three strips of tissue paper (gift wrapping type) before it had a chance to dry. To be accurate, I actually did this in three sections. I painted on glue to the port side and then laid a single tissue strip over it. Then I did the starboard side and finally a strip down the middle and over the doghouse. I might have been able to lay it all in one go, but this process gave me the time to fuss with the tissue paper and obtain the consistency of wrinkle I was after. Letting it sit overnight, I then painted the tissue a charcoal black acrylic followed by a faint and heavily diluted wash of dirty white pigments. The waist edges were then trimmed off with a razor blade. Some of the roof boards telegraph through the tissue and the overlapping seams are obvious yet don’t look out of scale to my eye. This image also shows the quarter circle roof corners that I didn’t think to photograph when I installed them earlier. There is much more to do on this whaleback - many details and finishes - lots more. Thanks for taking a look. Be safe and stay well. Gary