bruce d

Allan, have a look at the phrasing in the description of 'LEAD TO BE PUT BETWEEN THE KEELS' in this contract for Squirrel 1785:

Allan, is there any chance that the old script says 'shined' rather than 'tuned'?

1 hour ago, king derelict said:

Hopefully I got the general impression

You nailed it. 

Thanks. Looking forward to more of the boat. 👍

Thanks Jorge. I had seen that range of small planes but you are the first person I have seen who actually owns one so had to ask! Is it a good tool?

Jorge, the boat looks good and I will be watching in future. 

The plane looks nice, I take it you are happy with it.  Can I ask where you got it and if it has a name/model number?

D232 above, an unidentified yard. There is no information in the index but it is amongst other drawings of masts and tops from 18th c warships.

The Danish Museum has a contemporary copy of the drawing Bob shows in post #5, ref = D204.  The hi-res version is available using the 'save' option in the header above the picture on their site.

I am certain I remember another couple of examples there, still browsing.

HTH

Bruce

2 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

Thanks! 

 

I followed this guy's technique

Jack, I like your raider-guy, well done. Also, that is a really interesting video in your link, it actually makes me want to try the technique. Thanks!

So sorry to hear about catching covid after all this time but I am still enjoying the build.

Forgive me sounding like a parent but ... please be careful using power tools (especially new ones!) while you are host to the bug. 

Hi Chris,

I swear by my Metabo 261:

I believe there is a North American version wearing a 'customer badge'. Main positive points are superb build quality, ball bearings guides, cast table, small footprint benchtop design and (small but useful point) it is relatively quiet. Only one negative point: The table tilting mechanism works fine but I beefed up the locking clamp. It didn't fail, I just felt one more locking screw wouldn't hurt.

HTH

Bruce

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Kevin.

Careful exposing your mischievous side, Santa might be watching 😇

19 minutes ago, Jaager said:

No.   It may not be available.  My search points to it being another protein based adhesive.

 

This is on my 'to-do' list (minus the flavouring)...

43 minutes ago, Jaager said:

My current thought is to use rubber cement.   Apply a layer on each surface.  Left it dry.  Stick the two together.

 

My limited experience with rubber cement on wood is not encouraging. I got a few 'hard spots' with a solid grip on the wood for no known reason.

The paper suggested above got me thinking. Have you tried mucilage? 

Thanks Graham, I hadn't thought of paper between the pieces ... even though I have done that in bigger woodworking jobs!

I will play around with paper, who knows?

Still hoping for a clever sticky-stuff of some kind. 

Seeking some sage advice.

I am looking for a glue with one specific characteristic: I need to glue a bunch of pieces of wood together and then later separate them without harm. Seccotine was good for this in the old days but it is no longer available as far as I can tell. Using Titebond or similar and then applying IPA is not an option, the pieces are a bit too thin and spindly to survive the process.  I have tried a cheap PVA in the hopes of getting a poor bond but it actually gave a very strong, nearly bulletproof join. 

So, I suppose, a temporary glue. There has to be some clever product out there or a hack.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Great work Ian, it's a beauty. 

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Hopefully a member can shed more light on this.

Not more light, I'm sorry to say, but another variable to ponder. Surely the location of the weapon was a factor? Perhaps the absolutely identical rule of rigging was applied to a weapon whether it was in use as a bow chaser, on the gun deck or wheeled into the great cabin poste haste, or is it more likely the gun captain had discretion to do what suited his immediate needs best?

Since I do not claim to know the implications of having two single blocks on a gun instead of a single and a double there may be an answer obvious to someone who is deeper into the subject. However, single and double blocks are different tools and imply a different requitement. 

Just saying. I await flack.

Very nicely done.

Wonderful Christian, I admire your work.

I am sure we are all glad the man in Kevin's second photo above is wearing a tie. We have to maintain standards.

8 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Seems it would be a napalm like mix.  The question is... do you ignite it like a flame thrower or after it's sprayed?   The article doesn't say so it may not be lit off at all.   Just asking for scientific purposes....

Remember your digital footprint...

1 hour ago, Morgan said:

So make 1 gallon (just enough to kill a few bugs or burn down an house) and spray it indiscriminately, you don’t need to aim it at your victim, the fallout will kill them! I think napalm is more surgical.

 

Gary

I stared at the article a minute to be sure I had understood it. If there is a difference between spraying this stuff and using a flamethrower I can't see it.

Popular Mechanics August 1934. Sounds like a napalm substitute.