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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. bruce d
    Thanks to you both. This just about covers my questions. Regards, Bruce
  2. bruce d
    Left middle finger, age nine. Lesson not learned, did it again and again. Still do it.
  3. bruce d
    A very attractive ship, and it is nice to see a French subject. May I ask what wood are you using? Bruce
  4. bruce d
    Hi all. Last week we cut down a healthy sycamore tree. I have set aside some good straight lengths (enough for six lifetimes) of varying diameters and the rest is seasoning for firewood. What is the best way to season the pieces I am keeping for modelmaking? Storage facilities are limited: I could put a couple of small lengths in the garage but the only place I have for the rest is under shelter outside. So, leave it as cut? Remove the bark? Or what? I have found contradictory instructions online and think the MSW collective experience will produce the best answer. Thanks in advance, Bruce
  5. bruce d
    It would help a lot to know exactly how you are doing the cutting. What is the set up on the table, whether you are using the fence alone, have you checked the fence is square etc. It's a Byrnes. 👍 The answer is somewhere in the details ...
  6. bruce d
    Hello Ron, The Hyuda spec includes a variable speed 200w motor. This sounds like a good thing but what it doesn't mention is the drive system. Proxxon ads always boast of their toothed drive and the Hyuda doesn't mention any thing about this part of the saw. It might be a good idea to find out what drive the Hyuda offers, especially since it has a variable speed function. The only grumble I ever heard directly from a Proxxon FET owner was that it didn't have enough power. When I saw what he was trying to do I understood the problem. The FET is not a miniature sawmill for oak and ebony, so don't overload it. I may get another FET one day strictly to get the tilting blade feature which the Byrnes does not have. HTH Bruce
  7. bruce d
    Hello Skully, that is a nice looking model, I like how you have created textures with the wood. Well done 👍
  8. bruce d
    Hello Lolol, and welcome to MSW. That is a beautiful piece of history, I wonder if there is a story behind it? May I suggest you post in the new members section and introduce yourself? It is here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ Regards, Bruce
  9. bruce d
    Absolutely. I used a couple of slitting saws with a home-made spacer to fit the spindle.
  10. bruce d
    Search 'Byrnes' on this site and you will find a lot of hits and an overwhelming mass of positive feedback. I used to have a Proxxon FET, now I have a Byrnes. The Byrnes is the best saw for modelmaking in the world. However, I have to say that the FET is a good saw and was more than adequate for every job I threw at it. Also, it has a tilting blade feature. If you are able to get a Byrnes saw and want the best, go for it. The FET is cheaper and a lot of very good models have been made using it. I may get another FET one day if the price is right just to get the tilting blade feature. You can PM Jim Byrnes from this forum. His username will come up in some of the hits when you search 'Byrnes'. I am sure some of the more experienced members will add their endorsement of the Byrnes, but the FET should not be ignored. Hope this helps, Bruce
  11. bruce d
    Is there an advantage to using the wax? I have used it in the past for furniture but never considered it for modelmaking. My impression, based on the product I used, is that it would be tricky to control for the tiny cavities and seams associated with planking. If there is a practical reason for using the wax instead of glue/dust mixture, I would be interested. It could give quite a few colour possibilities.
  12. bruce d
    Welcome to MSW from Sussex. Looking forward to seeing more from you. 👍 Bruce
  13. bruce d
    Hello Pascual and a warm welcome from the UK.
  14. bruce d
    Welcome to MSW Reynard 👍
  15. bruce d
    Hello Pitr, welcome to MSW. That is a very good looking model, I hope we get to see the build process and your modifications. Regards, Bruce
  16. bruce d
    OK, I see what you mean. I don't have any specific answers concerning those but all exposed parts must have had some protective paint. Since the intel report I read had no more detail I think you can't go wrong with a light grey. If there is another source of colour information, I would be happy to hear about it. Hope this helps, Bruce
  17. bruce d
    Can you post a picture of the area you are asking about? I believe everything visible from the outside was painted for protection.
  18. bruce d
    Not War and Peace? Either way, I am sure it will be a classic. 👍
  19. bruce d
    Johann, the model is fantastic but I have to say the rigging is almost unbelievable. You are the master of rigging realism.
  20. bruce d
    Ron, welcome to MSW. That is a great subject and it looks like you are doing a great job. I will be watching. BTW, no source to quote now because I read it a loooong time ago, but for WW1 era German boats I understand the pressure hull structure was a lighter colour than the external paint: not white, but light enough that the intelligence report made the distinction. It was a report written immediately post-war on the surrendered boats so I cannot say whether that was also the practice for early boats like U-9 which were painted a lighter colour anyway. Wish I had a copy, but that is what it said. Regards, Bruce
  21. bruce d
    Hello Geert, it looks good and I will watch to see what happens next. 👍 Bruce
  22. bruce d
    Hello Trond and welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your Bounty grow. Bruce
  23. bruce d
    Me too. Message translates as: You do not have permission to download this file attachment.
  24. bruce d
    That deck looks good, it will be a nice looking model. GF says you can use the kitchen table? You're a winner. 😉
  25. bruce d
    Hello PTH and welcome to MSW. Looking forward to seeing the models your grandfather made. Bruce

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