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bruce d
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Everything posted by bruce d
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Thanks, I wondered if it was CNC milled but I hoped there was a secret method. It is perfect, isn't it? -
Vlad, well done. This is looking great. Maybe I missed something but I have a question. The cap rail in this photo ... ... is beautiful. Previously in post #60 it looks like this ... Do you mind telling us how you achieved that perfect spiral? Thanks, Bruce
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Hi Vlad, bad news, the link is broken.
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Hello Mark. well that is interesting. The plans and translation look inviting, I found I was being drawn in to the project just by reading and studying. In the end I chose Mediator but the attraction is still there. Mind if I watch? Bruce
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Remain optomistic. You are not alone. I was two years into a 5-inch gauge live steam loco build (a Sweet Pea) when Ibegan to realise that I was having too much trouble just manhandling the rolling frame and cylinder assembly and would never be able to deal with the finished loco. I decided to think again and only after a decent interval came off the fence. Whatever you decide, don't rush into it. Just take care of yourself and see what fits best.
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Hello Paul and welcome to MSW. Those models look good, you know what you are doing. The weathering and toning on the subs is excellent, I hope you will talk us through your processes sometime. Bruce
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Beautiful, Jeronimo, just beautiful. Now I want one.
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Sutcliffe 1/72 vac form Coronado
bruce d replied to Lucius Molchany's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
You are fearless! -
Hello, Henry Wombat, welcome aboard MSW. It sounds like your interests are spread across all the key subjects here, I am sure you will find a lot of interest if you decide to add a build log (or two or three...) especially as you are a 'proper sailor'. Bruce
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Perhaps post #16 here will help. If Jolly roger isn't based on a real original then you have a free hand.
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Hello Bernie and welcome to MSW. It is a great place. I am curious. The Lindberg Jolly Roger was the English HMS Flora? Which one, and what do we know about accuracy? Bruce
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Hello Blunty, as you can see your statement has caused some confusion among the members. Perhaps it is down to more than one vessel with the same name, and perhaps shifting rules and norms at different times in the same century. Can you add a bit of detail for context? Regards, Bruce
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Topsail schooner sail plans and rigging
bruce d replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Phil: what George said. Oh wow, thanks for that, I am printing it off and nailing it to the wall. Bruce- 104 replies
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- schooner rigging
- Topsail schooner
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Commiserations. Broke mine too but yours looks trickier. I am about to do some tests with UV curing glue on wood, will let you know if it proves useful.
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- 22ft Yawl
- Vanguard Models
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Thanks, I will gladly accept that compliment with a straight face. I want the boat finished, in a case and on one of my shelves: just a bit later than I planned.
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UPDATE - I snapped off the stem. It became clear that I had missed something that might have been blinking obvious to a more experienced builder. I had assumed that after bending the pre-shaped wales and planks I would be able to get a good butt-joint where the individual hull planks meet the stem. Well, that didn't turn out well. I should have cut a rabbet, even a shallow one, into the stem. Fiddling around trying to improvise a clamp to hold the wale in the correct position edge-on to the stem nearly worked. The first attempt looked good but while removing the clamp the stem snapped just below the scarf. I will take the opportunity to put a rabbet on the stem, now that it is available to hold, and figure out how I will re-attach it. I have called a time-out before tackling this as I was no longer feeling the childish glee of anticipation when seeing the model. I will return, as Custer said at the Alamo, but for the moment this build is on hold.
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Bark Enterprise:
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Welcome aboard. The Model T kits look cool!
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Dgerth, ignore the grumbling moderator: he will get over it 😆 and probably make a great model. Your log has helped me with that 'get-on-with-it' moment as I have had this on the shelf for a few months. Time to sweep off the only warm work bench and exdigitate. Thanks for the insight into the rabbet-line. Bruce
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The Tamiya blades are superb for scribing plastic, as used in the video, but are not really intended for wood IMO. I found the Airwaves better for wood because it behaved more like a saw while the finer-toothed Tamiya clogged and wandered. It just wasn't intended to cut through wood. Having said that, I will try my hand at some small carving soon and expect that somewhere in the adventure I will reach for all the etched saws/scribers just to see what happens.
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- 22ft Yawl
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I have not seen the white in iroko, but since my stash of that wood all came from the same source (salvaged garden furniture set) I suppose it can vary. The surface darkening on my pieces is really quick in bright sunlight. BTW, Alan, if it is iroko be careful as every splinter of iroko I have had has turned nasty, and DO NOT breathe the dust.
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Alan, can't give you a name but I have seen those strands of white in a picture frame. The shop owner said it was a maple but did not have any more of the stock. This was years ago and I don't know why it stuck with me other than the visual impact of the wood.
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Well, I would like to know too, it looks useful. The 'honey' looks and behaves exactly like an industrial acid catylised resin adhesive I used in the '80s. It can't be that same product because that was a two-part adhesive: the 'honey' was put on one component and the acid catalyst was brushed on the other part. When the two were brought together you had about 20 seconds of wriggle-time before a sudden bite occured. The bond was very strong and full strength was achieved in minutes. The 'honey' behaved exactly like the goo in the video and I used it in a very similar way many times. It would not surprise me at all to find this is a 21st century new-and-improved version. If so, I hope it doesn't smell like the '80s version. Will be watching for news.
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