bruce d

Sooty, Καλως ΗΡΘΑΤΕ! Welcome aboard MSW. That is a very good looking model and it is not a common subject. I look forward to your build log. Bruce

Good question. The rigging is a bit special, it has exactly the 'look' I hope to achieve. Great looking model, well done.

My best guess: that is the story of 99% of the workshop accidents I know about. It is behind 100% of my own accidents. Really glad you came through this with all your fingers, Time to rest, binge on YouTube and reflect. Stay safe and heal, we want to see this project. Regards, Bruce

A couple of machines for sale from a modelmakers estate may be of interest to members here. They belong to someone who is not a member of MSW so I have offered to pass on contact details if anyone wants to know more. If interested PM me with your email address and I will send them on, then I play no further part. I have not seen these machines in person but have bought another machine from the same source and was completely satisfied with the description given and delivery arrangements. Bruce

They also have excellent customer service. Somehow I got it into my head that they carried Globus blades but I got no hits when I searched the name in their site. I used them for a looooooong time when I was working but haven't had anything for the last few so can't say what the 'cold caller' sales arrangements are now.

Absolutely wonderful.

Apologies if this has been nailed down before. The sizes of barrels and butts etc are established, and for that I am grateful. However, my trivial point is this: what width were the staves? In other words, how many staves would a barrel/butt of a given size have in the 18th - 19th century? I cannot imagine it was not subject to rules then as it is now, but were the rules the same? A modern whiskey barrel of 200 litres/55 gallons has between 31 and 33 staves. Wiki searches give a lot of good info on the dimensions of casks etc but (unless I am overlooking something) the staves are not covered. Considering the number of different woods used and the world wide nature of the industry it would not surprise me to find there were several standards, so to summarise, does anybody know where to start? Below is a copy and paste of an MSW post ... that seems to be the final word on dimensions and helps with identification of the different sizes of containers. " The height of a 'barrel', for example is the cube root of (54 raised to the third power times 150/36). This gives a height for the barrel of 34 inches and a diameter of 22 inches. Here are the values for the others: Leager 150 gallons 54" high x 36" diameter Tun 220 gallons 61" high x 41" diameter Butt 110 gallons 49" high x 32" diameter Hogshead 54 gallons 38" high x 25" diameter Barrel 36 gallons 34" high x 22" diameter Rundlet 16 gallons 25" high x 17" diameter These are rounded of and not very accurate, but since there were no real 'standards' they are good enough for me. You might want to compare this with the picture Ron showed for various containers. Now I can make my own 'barrels'." Any thoughts? Thanks, Bruce

You may be able to get engineers parallels that suit your needs. For use as shown, there are quite a few things in a metalworkers workshop that have parallels sides such as slip gauges. and, perhaps most useful of all, square lathe tools like this: Sacrilege perhaps, but I cut 'em down to one inch or less lengths to suit the gap. They come in different sizes. The model is looking really good.

I believe the company you are thinking of is in Poland: https://www.globus-wapienica.com/search.php?searchString=slitting Their products are sometimes sold in the UK but I can't find a current distributor. However, they will supply directly. Has anyone used their blades for Byrnes saws? HTH Bruce

Henrik, it looks fantastic. You must be verrrrrry happy!

From 'The Strand' magazine on the Naval Exhibition of 1891:

Hello Dougal, and a warm welcome to MSW from misty Sussex. You will find all the support you can hope for here, and I will give you the easiest answer of all: You can never have enough clamps! I suggest you also study the build logs here for boats similar to yours to see the variety of ways people find to do the same tasks on different boats. Which technique seems to feel 'right' for you will probably emerge. can we look forward to a build log? Regards, Bruce

Title: "The Complete Modellist Shewing the True and Exact Way of Raising the Model of Any Ship Or Vessel, Small Or Great, Either in Proportion, Or Out of Proportion ... Performed by Thomas Miller" 1667 ship building.pdf I hadn't seen this before. BTW, this is my 1000th post. Thank you, MSW, and all who sail in her. Bruce

... and my CAF longboat build will be here soon. Same materials, will be interesting to compare notes. Mine's fiddly, how's yours?

A_Plague_of_Ships_Spanish_Ships_and_Ship.pdf Bruce

Welcome to MSW, it is a great place. It looks like you have a good start and some experienced hands looking on. Have fun! Bruce

Hello Lars, and welcome to MSW from the UK. You have a model shop you can visit? With wooden kits on display? Lucky boy!!! Have fun. Regards, Bruce

Very good looking model Rodolfo, I especially like the choice of woods.

Exactly right for thin brass. It doesn't have to be top quality plywood, just solid with no 'voids'. Also works with acrylic sheet. I have cut .004" (4 thou) brass this way with good results on a saw nowhere as good as a Byrnes. It is surprising but the same setup will allow you to make good cuts with a router provided the ply-brass-wood sandwich is rock solid and you have good router bit. You may harm the teeth of the cutter but just use another depth setting next time to bring a different section of the cutting edge into contact with the workpiece. The tricky part, whichever tool has been used, is removing the plywood without distorting the brass. Tip: soak the whole kit and kaboodle in methylated spirits to soften the double sided tape bond. Once finished, throw the plywood away.

Welcome to MSW Phil, it is a great place for support and advice. Modelling on the road? I'd like to hear how that works out.

In my opinion, that is the whole story in a nutshell.

Hello Allen, Not a proper answer to your excellent question but perhaps this is worth a look: Many plans of ships and other craft at the NMM show the location of the cooking area, and of course you can also spot the chimney in many museum models. Also, shipwreck archaeologists usually look closely for any evidence of a galley, usually indicated by bricks and distinctive ironwork so some of the reports posted here may help. HTH

Pat, PM sent.

Mark Staniforth went on to be Professor Staniforth, holding a senior postion in Australia and was the 'go-to-guy' for questions about sheathing. He was helpful to me not long ago and was interested that his paper is still used.

Well done Hugo, it looks great. On to the next one with your new skills!