bruce d

Another find: Observations on the Dimensions of the Ships of the Line and Frigates in the French Navy - published 1830 Observations on the dimensions of the ships of the line and frigates in the French navy -.pdf

Ah, well. worth a try. I think the work that goes into maintaining an index on a subject like this is underestimated, so thanks for what you have done.

Welcome to MSW, it is a great place.

Found this US History of the War volume from 1817 which compares the performance and technical aspects of ships in the 'recent war'. There are some interesting comments about the construction of English LIVELY class frigates starting around page 124, plus plenty of others. The PDF document title is mine, not original. US comparisons of ships 1817.pdf

I have just started looking at this useful tool(s). I have two questions, sorry if I have missed the answers within the existing posts. Are there any plans to include scratchbuilt projects? Is there any facility to identify P.O.F. projects? Many thanks for the work.

You get my respect for the way you grit your teeth and do it again. Hope I have the intestinal fortitude (aka - guts) to do the same when needed.

Hi Tom, it is a planking project for either beginners (like me) or anyone who wants to see first hand this particular method of planking (also me). See the thread above. I have my kit, the contents are impressively simple and it will be started soon. The method used is superior to most of the 'beginners' tutorials I have seen and Toni has done a great job of keeping it simple yet getting impressive results. All brown-nosing aside, I am glad I got mine.

Yes. You should just be able to connect the wires by colour code. I assume you have a standard Unimat SL motor and a speed control type foot-pedal in mind, not 'on-off'. Just be aware that with the original Unimat motor you are not going to get great low speed performance and can easily overload the motor. The Unimat 3 should have a two speed switch which, with belt changes, gives a very good range. At one time or another, I have used a sewing machine foot speed controller, a dimmer switch and an industrial speed control unit on Unimats. I now control speed only by swapping belts on the pulleys. It is the only way to get the torque correct for the speed. Also, Unimat made a slow-speed pulley assembly for the SL which is usually avilable on fleabay. If you are using a different motor these comments may not apply. HTH Bruce

Thank you Martin.

Wonderful model but I am also cautious about the identification.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Found this image in the Library of Congress online: The description says 'Drawing shows a British gunboat under sail on Lake Champlain with a view of Crown Point, New York in the background. ' It is dated circa 1759. Any ideas about the identity or class of the 'British gunboat'?

Thank you, exactly the way the nice people at UNIMAT had in mind. I have made a cannon or two using the headstock adjustment and would not think anything more ambitious should be attempted without support. You are right Bob, of course, and I hope nobody believed I was saying they could turn masts in this fashion. The very first thing I made on a Unimat SL was a torpedo. I did the warhead end freehand and used the headstock adjustment for the tapering aft section. Worked like a charm and I felt like a master craftsman..

Unimat original collet chuck for the SL on the left with E16 collet, aftermarket ditto on right with ER16.

Outrageous. Like finding the end of the rainbow.

Shipman, You have recieved good advice above but I expect that to get started you should just focus on learning to use what you have. Unimats are far more common in the UK market than the Sherline tool and there are many bits available here at (I am glad to say) lower prices than the same item in the US. As you are making model ships and not watches, I suggest to concentrate on the SL. Unlike the UNIMAT 3 it has a built-in taper turning facility by adjusting the angle of the headstock. I assume you have a three jaw chuck. Sharp tools are more important than correct speed. Take your time. Experiment with some round brass bar until you can get a smooth finish. Make a couple of cannons. See for yourself what happens if you use a rounded tool shape instead of a pointed tool. Now repeat the exercise with some hardwood, of course with appropriate tooling. Don't get a sleeve anywhere near the lathe. Wear eye protection. Best advice: find out if you like using the lathe. If not, well .... good thing to learn before stocking up with must-have tools and accessories. Quite right. There are screw on collet holders for the SL and U3 and the original factory pieces used E16 double angle collets which are no longer produced. ER16 collets will usually work in the Unimat E16 collet chuck and readily available, however there are some very poor quality pieces out there so tread carefully. If you go forward it may be worth getting collets but get to know how useful (or not) having a lathe is first. HTH Bruce EDIT: CROSS POSTED, YOU HAVE MADE PROGRESS ALREADY. The book you have is the best starting point I know. Have fun.

Inspiring. Well done.

Looks amazing but I can't make the link work. VERY good choice of subject!

Found this in an 1861 Scientific American: Yes, it is a cannon revolver. The patent was granted in 1860 and it was intended for fixed batteries or shipboard use. As far as I know it wasn't put into production, but I don't know. Please tell me it was never mounted on a ship. Bruce

It is. I was privileged to be invited to the Coastal Forces Veterans reunions for the last couple of years they were held here in the UK and these were the go-to books, often brought along and displayed on the table for anyone to consult. I think that is a pretty good recommendation.

Old stock of Letraset is dwindling. Try these people: https://www.mayfairstationers.co.uk/office-supplies/letraset-dry-transfers.html HTH Bruce

!!!!!!! I learn something every day on this forum.

Pretty sure IPA is not the one. IPA = rubbing alcohol, meths is a different beast and I believe it is the 'denatured' product. I will be interested if it turns out to be IPA.

We know it as 'methylated spirit'. HTH Bruce

My boo-boo was on an earlier occasion and consisted of me trying to rewrite history because I thought I had 'discovered' an error.