Tigersteve
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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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It should follow the curvature of the hull. Pre-bend the wood first and use wood glue. Steve -
David- nice work area! Following along. Steve
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I was just thinking that also that you won't see some of it covered by the floorboards. I try not to use CA if I can avoid it. Worst case scenario- you can get a replacement for those lifts and revisit this little boat later on in the build. ;-) It certainly is its own model. Steve
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Yes- def follow the instructions/practicum carefully. I'm no expert by any means, but with regards to the caprail I think you'll have a hell of a time trying to work with it at 1/32" before gluing it on. If you glue the layer for the caprail at 1/16" and then turn the boat upside down while sanding, you will be able to see the thickness all the way around. This is how I sanded my caprail for the longboat. Pre-bend before gluing. I don't have a good method for cleaning up the CA besides using a blade. Maybe others have better advice. It may affect your finish if you don't clean it up well. Steve
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Thanks guys! I appreciate all the likes and kind words. Steve
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Completed grapnel anchor installed. This was done in three layers: one line looped over the thwart, one rope coil over that, and another rope coil attached to the grapnel. I can see why Bob F removed the thwart to work in this tight space. Steve
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I haven't gone through my Mayflower kit and instructions very thoroughly yet, but it probably means glue it at 1/16" and when it's completely dry sand it to 1/32". Steve
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Richie, if you go to the Minwax website, you'll see more about each of their products. I think it's worth looking through. Definitely use pre-stain before staining. I've found that the better the sanding, the better the finish. I've used Minwax Natural stain on my longboat and finished with their Wipe on Poly. Check out my log to see the results on basswood. Golden Oak turns out darker than you might think and people mix it with Natural stain to lighten it a bit. Do some tests on scrap wood. Also, if you don't like the finish on your model you should be able to sand it lighter. Hope this helps. Steve
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Getting better and better, Mike. What type of wood are you using again? Steve
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Completed rigging the boom, gaff, and bowsprit. As done previously, the length of rope was taken from the rigging plan. Rope coils for the boom and gaff will be completed before they are stowed. I think the rope coil for the grapnel and its installation will be next. After that, the oars and boat can be mounted on the display before the final staging. I believe I've wasted more rigging material than was included in the kit! Good thing I purchased other material. Steve
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Rudder stowed does make sense. Thanks for clearing that up for me, gentlemen. I made two more hooks that I seized with tan rope so the longboat can be lashed down later in the project. The grapnel anchor was also seized with tan rope. I did this with brown at first but wasn't satisfied with the result. Finally, the traveler ring was made from 28 gauge wire. Steve
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Yes- I'm in too! Steve
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Two more reference photos are shown. The windlass handles will not be installed into the windlass, but placed as shown in the photos. Installed, they took up too much needed space. There's a lot more to do, but I wanted to get some feedback on the rudder placement. Installed or stowed? Any thoughts? There will be a rope coil placed on the aft platform and one on the port side cockpit seat. Steve
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Tigersteve replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Wouldn't worry about it. Looks great. Steve -
Very unique. I like it! Steve
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Before mounting the longboat permanently, a decision had to be made about final placement of the oars and mast. I decided to keep the oars closer to the boat so the mast details would not be obscured. I also updated the photo in my previous post. Nothing is glued yet, but soon. Lots of planning for this type of presentation. Very enjoyable process. Steve
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I'll have to follow this one. Nice work so far. Steve
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Some interesting updates to report. In what I call another placement reference photo, the gaff is rigged and the rope coil where the beads are threaded was made from black thread included with the kit. One additional tan rope coil needs to be added for the throat halyard before its final placement. The photo with the gaff in the vise shows the method I used for the seizing. I place a drop of CA where the knot will be located and then tighten the knot over the CA. Snip off the excess when the glue dries. The shroud pairs were seized around the mast using the method shown in the following photo. Final adjustments will be made before it's mounted permanently. Steve
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