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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Tigersteve
    Yes- def follow the instructions/practicum carefully. I'm no expert by any means, but with regards to the caprail I think you'll have a hell of a time trying to work with it at 1/32" before gluing it on. If you glue the layer for the caprail at 1/16" and then turn the boat upside down while sanding, you will be able to see the thickness all the way around. This is how I sanded my caprail for the longboat. Pre-bend before gluing. I don't have a good method for cleaning up the CA besides using a blade. Maybe others have better advice. It may affect your finish if you don't clean it up well. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    Well done! Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    Good to see you back to this one! Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Thanks guys! I appreciate all the likes and kind words. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    Have to agree that it looks great. Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    Completed grapnel anchor installed. This was done in three layers: one line looped over the thwart, one rope coil over that, and another rope coil attached to the grapnel. I can see why Bob F removed the thwart to work in this tight space. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    I haven't gone through my Mayflower kit and instructions very thoroughly yet, but it probably means glue it at 1/16" and when it's completely dry sand it to 1/32". Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    Richie, if you go to the Minwax website, you'll see more about each of their products. I think it's worth looking through. Definitely use pre-stain before staining. I've found that the better the sanding, the better the finish. I've used Minwax Natural stain on my longboat and finished with their Wipe on Poly. Check out my log to see the results on basswood. Golden Oak turns out darker than you might think and people mix it with Natural stain to lighten it a bit. Do some tests on scrap wood. Also, if you don't like the finish on your model you should be able to sand it lighter. Hope this helps. Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    Getting better and better, Mike. What type of wood are you using again? Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Completed rigging the boom, gaff, and bowsprit. As done previously, the length of rope was taken from the rigging plan. Rope coils for the boom and gaff will be completed before they are stowed. I think the rope coil for the grapnel and its installation will be next. After that, the oars and boat can be mounted on the display before the final staging. I believe I've wasted more rigging material than was included in the kit! Good thing I purchased other material. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    That stripe pulls it all together. Nice! Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    Rudder stowed does make sense. Thanks for clearing that up for me, gentlemen. I made two more hooks that I seized with tan rope so the longboat can be lashed down later in the project. The grapnel anchor was also seized with tan rope. I did this with brown at first but wasn't satisfied with the result. Finally, the traveler ring was made from 28 gauge wire. Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    Yes- I'm in too! Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    Two more reference photos are shown. The windlass handles will not be installed into the windlass, but placed as shown in the photos. Installed, they took up too much needed space. There's a lot more to do, but I wanted to get some feedback on the rudder placement. Installed or stowed? Any thoughts? There will be a rope coil placed on the aft platform and one on the port side cockpit seat. Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Wouldn't worry about it. Looks great. Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Very unique. I like it! Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    I like it, Mike. Looks very clean. Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    Before mounting the longboat permanently, a decision had to be made about final placement of the oars and mast. I decided to keep the oars closer to the boat so the mast details would not be obscured. I also updated the photo in my previous post. Nothing is glued yet, but soon. Lots of planning for this type of presentation. Very enjoyable process. Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    I'll have to follow this one. Nice work so far. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    Some interesting updates to report. In what I call another placement reference photo, the gaff is rigged and the rope coil where the beads are threaded was made from black thread included with the kit. One additional tan rope coil needs to be added for the throat halyard before its final placement. The photo with the gaff in the vise shows the method I used for the seizing. I place a drop of CA where the knot will be located and then tighten the knot over the CA. Snip off the excess when the glue dries. The shroud pairs were seized around the mast using the method shown in the following photo. Final adjustments will be made before it's mounted permanently. Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    Count one more. Steve
  22. Tigersteve
    It's important to get off to a smooth start. Better than fighting with warped plywood. You can email them too. It's not always easy getting them on the phone. One man show over there. jgarcia@modelexpo-online.com
  23. Tigersteve
    Yes, sir. First build so I wanted to stick with as much of the kit supplied stock as possible. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    It's been a while since I've redone something. So here it is- revised backstay pendents. Smaller seizings and a cleaner rope coil. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    If it were me I would get replacements from them on all the sheets that are warped. I have this kit too in waiting. I'm sure there's other solutions. They are good with sending replacements. Might take a little time though. Steve

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