Tigersteve
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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Thank you, Per. I try not to use CA at all. Hate the stuff and it dries shiny, which is why I used it under the knot. I'm trying new things and learning a lot! Steve- 165 replies
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You will see a huge difference when that dries. Check other logs also of this build. Lots of useful tricks. Bob F has some impressive tutorials. Steve
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- 18th century longboat
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Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes. Shroud pairs are complete. Used a touch of CA on the rope and tightened the two overhand knots for each deadeye over the CA. This allowed me to work quickly and cut excess rope a little closer to the knot. I coated the assembly with diluted white glue. Again, the length of rope was taken from the rigging plan. They will be seized to the mast next. These photos show crazy detail, but it looks clean to the naked eye. Steve
- 165 replies
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Looping myself in. Beautiful work. Steve
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Looks good! Steve
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It's coming along nicely. Steve
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Forestay deadeye is complete. Again, the length taken from the rigging plan. Two overhand knots were used for the seizing. I used mini clothspins for spacers. This will also be presented onboard in the rope coil shown in the photo. (It's much cleaner in person!) The remaining four deadeyes will be seized to the mast. Steve
- 165 replies
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The backstay pendents make up the last of the blocks. I used brown rope for these, using the rigging plan to measure the length. These will be presented onboard the longboat in the rope coil you see in the photo. Roughly three hours of work. Steve
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That worked out nicely. Which parts of the build are maple? How is it working with the Maple? I would like to order some for my next project (English Pinnace). Steve
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Let's decide after she's planked;-) Forgive me- I haven't read all the previous posts thoroughly, but the waterline would be lower, correct? Just curious. If you do paint it, I think it would look better with the white starting lower. Not to debate anyone here. I really want to see it left unpainted though. Steve
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Thomas- you are setting the bar very high for anyone's Syren build. I'll say again that I'm really enjoying this log. Steve
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Erik- thanks again for sharing your methods. Nice jig! Steve
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If the planking turns out clean, which I think it will be in your case, I would like to see it left unpainted. Just my thoughts. Wish you well health wise. Steve
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Since you did light it, it would make sense to add a hidden motor to the wheel so it rotates. I know that takes pre planning, but if it's doable, that would be a cool feature. Either way it's awesome. Steve
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Mike- it's easy to forget when the major focus is bending and shaping planks! I have a 4B pencil for the caulking. I leave it near the glue and toothpick in efforts to remember. It's not old age! Steve
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I used a soft pencil for my plank seams. The stain brings out the effect. I like how it looks. Steve
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Significant progress on the blocks. I used the method described in the article below, but I used white glue and a simple overhand knot for the seizing. There's a bit of excess rope because I didn't want to cut too close to the knot (done this already!). A thinner line for the seizing would make the excess rope invisible. The rope coils should hide some of this. Steve http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
- 165 replies
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Welcome back! This kit is really difficult to plank. Took me a lot of time. Chuck's planking videos helped a lot. Plus all the great build logs. Good news is the build moves along after the planking and fairing inboard are done. I'll follow along. Steve
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Thanks so much, guys! Sam- I am excited I can present the longboat in a different way. I really like your unique presentation of it as well. Karl- the hooks are made from 28 gauge wire that came with the kit. Scratched them up a bit so I need to do some touchup before install. I just realized today that I need to make two more hooks so the lashing of the boat can take place. Steve
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