Jump to content

Tigersteve

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,309

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Tigersteve
    Gunwale installation was pretty straightforward. I used one of the risers to mark the frames. With a chisel blade, using the method in David’s instructions, I gently applied pressure and rocked the handle back and forth until I heard a snap. This was cleaned up with some light sanding. Installation steps were similar to those used to install the bands. Trim the strip a bit over length and clamp to the hull after soaking in hot water. After completely dry, shape the strip where it meets the bow and stern. (Always test fit!) Apply glue dots at each frame and in between each frame. Hold the strip in place with your fingers. Clean up excess glue with a wet brush or your favorite method. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    And the fun begins! For future try sanding the parts while they are still on the sheet (both sides) to clean up the char before releasing them. A sanding block will help keep the surface level. 220 grit should work fine. Hope this helps. Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    Decided to install the bands next. The first photo shows the orientation of the band. The convex part of the curve should face up. This is counter intuitive, but it’s correct. 1. The band was soaked in water and clamped to the hull. Allow it to dry completely. 2. Apply glue to half of the band and hold it to the hull by hand while it sets. I started at the bow and lined up the band to slightly overlap the sheer. It should set quickly if you didn’t apply too much glue. 3. Apply glue to the rest of the band and hold in place. The bands will be sanded flush with the sheer after the glue completely sets. Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    A strong start. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    Side cleats installed. Here is the interior of the hull at this point. Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    To address the extra curvature at the bow I brushed on hot water to the offending area on both sides of the planks. Gently, I was able to press out the area to the correct shape. I held this for a few minutes, then applied heat with a hairdryer. I clamped the boat for about 10 minutes afterwards while it dried and cooled. This separated the frame in that area, but easily addressed with a touch of glue. The shape is much better at this point. Prior to this procedure, I was able to sand down the frames and attach the false stem. This was sanded to shape after the glue set. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    Great work! Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    After planking was complete I removed the boat from the building board and cut off the excess frames. I sanded them down so I could work on the finishing of the exterior of the hull. This is where you address your mistakes. Although I created the rolling bevels, I did not spend much time tweaking the fit to the adjoining bevels on previous planks. To address this I sanded the exterior of the planks as they approach the stem and transom. This created more of a taper and finished look. Sanding sticks and 320 grit sandpaper were used in these steps. At the stern I ended up with some excess curvature. I think this started to occur when positioning the broad strake at the bow. Must have pulled the plank too far toward the sheer. I didn’t notice the error at that point and it just compounded. Not worth ripping off planks, but I will try to make adjustments to the sheer by doing some light sanding later on. (Actually, I think the error is only on one side so I’m not even sure the cause.) Next, I will clean up the interior of the hull. Need some fresh wood filler for the seams at the bottom of the boat. I included some photos of the clamping methods used during planking. Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    Looks great. Looking forward to the tutorial. Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Wanted to share some photos and description of my planking process for some of our new ship modelers to supplement the instructions. 1. After the plank is beveled as per instructions, soak in hot water for a few minutes and pre fit to the hull. Let the plank dry completely. (Photo 1) 2. Position the plank between a rubber band and hull and apply glue to the contact points (frames, stem, transom, bottom floor plank). I apply all glue with a toothpick. You don’t need much glue at all. You’d be surprised. (Photo 2) 3. Carefully shift the plank upwards and clamp at the bow and stern. Check for consistent plank overlap with the floor. Mine has less overlap midship so I will mirror that on the other side. (Photo 3) 4. Lift the build board to check all frames make contact with the plank. Cleanup excess glue with water and small paintbrush. Apply glue to any noticeable gaps. Add additional rubber-bands if needed. Address one plank at a time. It’s not a race and mistakes can be fixed. Next update when planking is complete. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    Nice start! Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    This looks great! Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    Frames glued to building board. The stem seems a hair askew. Not sure where my mistake was, but it’s not worth disassembling. Applied heat instead and clamped to a 1x2x3 block. Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    A brush was used to apply water to the underside of the boat to create the curved bottom. Most of the char was sanded from the inside of the frames before they were assembled and added to the building board. Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    It’s been far too long since my last post. The Mayflower is on hold and I need to get back into building. I came across this Model Shipways kit designed by David Antscherl. While the workshop is in transition, this seems the perfect project to restart the modeling engine. The bottom three planks were glued and sanded when dried. Next, the six bottom cleats were cut and sanded to an appropriate width. The instructions state 1/8” width strip, but this does not match the laser marks on the floorboards or the drawings. Did Model Shipways change the original measurement of this strip? Anyway… Assembly and installation of the stem, transom, and stern knee concluded today’s work. It is good to be back! Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Sounds like you have all the tools you need at the moment. Don’t get sucked into the rabbit hole of getting too many tools at once. Looking forward to your progress here. Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    Congrats! I just ordered this kit and looking forward to learning from it as well! No matter how simple the kit appears, you always learn new tricks and it’s usually never as simple as it looks. Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    Very nice result. Congrats! Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    Will be following your journey here. Looks like a fine kit! Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    Nice addition with your carvings! Makes the project more fun adding your own extras. Up to you of course but I would leave off the tree nails. You won’t really see them and the effort may not be worth it. Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    I don’t believe they are in business any longer. This source for wood is supposed to be good but I don’t know if they mill strips. Doesn’t hurt to contact them. https://ocoochhardwoods.com
  22. Tigersteve
    If you haven’t glued this yet, you can flip the step so you don’t have all that excess to sand. Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    It’s coming along! I hope you try this color scheme you posted. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    I appreciate the kind words! I enjoyed designing this presentation. The longboat is quite a challenging project. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    Your base looks familiar. I like it! 😎 Steve

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...