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Tigersteve

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  1. Tigersteve
    Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    Beautiful design and execution. Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    Very nicely done! Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Made four buckets- two quarter size and two nickel size. One bucket did not survive, but I think it would have been too crowded in the presentation. These will be painted and holes drilled. 3/16” strips were used in the construction. I applied one coat of paint after this photo, but used too much water. There’s a bit of touch up needed as the water caused some damage. Stay tuned… Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    Thanks! Took a little break after the painting fiasco. Must build the buckets… Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    Nameplate applied. This material is shinier than the nameplates on my other projects. Apparently, they don’t use that other material any longer. It’s a bit shiny for my taste, but it will have to due for this project. Still looks clean. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    I’m sure the repair will look even better than the first attempt. Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    Nice progress! Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    Thank you for the compliments. Means a lot coming from fine craftsman like yourselves. Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Testor’s Dullcote does not react well with Tamiya paints. I was getting a spotty, eggshell type finish. To recover, I sanded the surfaces most affected and repainted. Lesson learned. Test finishes off model. I will be using different paints going forward. Also, do not use Wipe-On-Poly over paint unless you want a sheen. I wish I took this advice on previous models. I over worked the sanding of the oars and have requested replacement parts from Model Expo. While I wait for those parts, I will construct the buckets and start the rope work on the model. I purchased Syren rope for this. I worked on the layout for the nameplate. Measurements are 3.25” x .25”. I will get that made at a local trophy shop. Very inexpensive and adds a nice finishing touch to the project. Thank you Mike Stuntflyer and Ryland Craze for your assistance on the paint finishes. I learned a lot from our exchanges. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    Really sharp! Some serious geometry happening on this ship. Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    Sanding sticks were made using kit wood and a glue stick. These sizes were very handy for working on the cap rail. I also modified the transom to a more pleasing curve. Painting is very close to being finished. I am trying to avoid purchasing more paint as I have over diluted a couple of my colors. Oar construction is also underway. Color scheme (Tamiya Flat Paints); Exterior Hull: Flat Earth Interior Hull: Desert Yellow Cap rail/Gunwale: J.A. Green For the few following along- thank you for all the likes! Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    Looking sharp! Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    Nicely done! Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Very nice! Echo Keith’s suggestion here. Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Completed display base. Next update will be after the cap rail is complete. As you can tell from my last two posts, this will take a while. There’s a lot of work necessary to get the model to an acceptable level. Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    The profile of the hull was used to trace a parallel line next to the cutout where the original cap rail piece was removed from the sheet. After the shape was roughly cut out, I moved the piece along 220 grit sandpaper that was wrapped around my finger. Kit basswood is good for this. All that is needed is your hobby knife and sandpaper. While the cap rail pieces get pre-painted before attaching to the hull, see the attached photo of my modified base parts. The original kit supplied base seemed oversized. The base was treated with pre-stain before applying a natural stain. Three coats of Wipe-On-Poly was applied with fine sanding in between. Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    Needed a break from painting so back to construction. I was finally able to install the first part of the cap rail. This was sanded flush with the gunwale. After the remaining pieces are installed, I will add some filler to any gaps and sand them flush. See the attached rough photo. Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    I’ve said it before. Mike’s projects make you elevate your own work. Just excellent! Thank you for raising the standard. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    It looks good. These are some really difficult parts to make. Sometimes it’s good to step away for a bit. Each attempt will be better than the previous. Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    Very nice build so far! Steve
  22. Tigersteve
    Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed. I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye. Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    Thank you for the compliment and advice! Stuntflyer suggested the same (dullcoat). I’ll try not to obsess about the sheen, but I do have plenty work to do before that step. 😎 Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    The painting process continues. I’ll share a photo of the exterior hull as it stands. There’s a bit of a sheen that I want to eliminate. I’ve been alternating between exterior and interior. The interior needs more attention. I am also utilizing this project to hone my painting finishes. It will take a while. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    Lynn, As part of the learning experience I would suggest remaking that piece that split. I’m sure there is plenty wood in the kit. Trace your template and use a blade to make several passes along your lines. Use a metal ruler to guide your blade for the first pass or two. The groove will then guide the blade. You can sand it to shape after it is freed. it’s hard working with small parts. (frustrating!) That’s the learning curve. Trying to make everything clean and neat. Steve

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