Tigersteve
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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Thank you both. I ordered the B/C Brass Black. Below are photos of the poop deck installed. I started rebuilding the coamings. Ledges will be created next using 1/32” x1/32” strips. Steve
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Wow! Steve
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Going to go with one of these as they are available on Amazon. Anyone have experience with either of those? They look pretty similar. Steve
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Back on track with the planking of this bulkhead completed. More cherry grating strips were ordered from Model Expo. I considered cutting them from scratch, but did not really want to get into this exploration on my table saw just yet. Up next: create new windows for this bulkhead and bulwarks. Then, I will detail this bulkhead before install and final shaping. Gratings will be completed before metal rings and eyebolts are added. Anyone use this stuff to blacken brass? Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish, 3-Ounce https://a.co/d/fJ63x1v Steve
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Thanks Mike. Don’t worry, I’m not abandoning the project. Steve
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Recovery began with repairing the Forward Cubbridge bulkhead and replacing the deck planks that were removed during deconstruction. I had a new poop bulkhead complete by reusing the door and some of the planking from the original bulkhead, but by the time this was complete I noticed the door was mounted askew. (Now I will really have to redo it completely.) At this point I felt like destroying the model so I walked away. Steve
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Thank you, sir! Steve
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You are getting a lot done! Have you thought about the presentation yet? Not sure if you’ve discussed this earlier. This might be a good time to drill any holes you need to in the keel before any fragile details are added to the deck. Steve
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The last deconstruction is the poop bulkhead. The window opening is not as sharp as I would like. Of course, I did not notice until the macro photos. My eye keeps going back to this error so this bulkhead will be recut from excess of the laser cut sheet and redone completely. Next I will replank the opening in the deck and prep the coamings interior with 1/32” x 1/32” strips. Deck planking is 1/32” x 1/8”, of course. Steve
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Your design process is interesting to watch. It’s really cool to be part of it even if just by watching. There are so many modeling tricks coming out of your projects. You need someone to index them all. A one stop shop of tricks. If it could even be consolidated! Steve
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Would you say that this is your most challenging kit to design? Steve
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Thank you for the redirection. Absolutely spot on advice. It is a hard band-aide to rip off. Steve
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It’s been a day so why not undo some of this work. Uggh! I haven’t been pleased with the handles for these doors so I decided to add some black paint with a toothpick. This did not improve the appearance so after some fidgeting I had to remove some parts. While I was at it I removed a wonky part of the main deck. The tools used for deconstruction were the exacto knife to open the groove and steel ruler to pry the pieces carefully. Patience is key. I’m considering redoing the gratings but I would need to purchase more gratings and I’ve spent enough $ on the wood for this project already. I think they will be fine under the ships boat. This is still up in the air. What do you guys think? Steve
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Bulkheads and transom are installed. Next up: metal rings on the decks and mast holes. Steve
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Congrats on the finished model. Very nice work. Steve
- 756 replies
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- galleon
- golden hind
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You’ll want to install the cap rail after you sand the frames because you’ll need the space inside the boat to work on and install the cap rail. Chuck’s instructions are pretty solid. Careful when sanding the frames. There’s a lot of it to do. It took me several sessions for this step. Steve
- 24 replies
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- 18th Century Longboat
- Model Shipways
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Thank you for the positive comments and likes everyone. Much appreciated. Steve
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Upper deck planking is complete with the exception of a final sanding and second coat of Poly. Planks were staggered as per the shift pattern in the instructions. I tried to capture the color of the wood as best I could in the photos. I think the Cherry is a nice fit for this project. I need to make some tweaks to the bulkheads before they are glued in place. Steve
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Hi Ghost029, You need to taper the planks and properly shape and bend them before gluing to the hull. Prior to that you need to line off the hull. There are many resources on planking on this forum. You should check them out before you proceed. Don’t feel bad or be afraid to remove things and do things over. No one gets things perfect on the first attempt. Steve
- 24 replies
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- 18th Century Longboat
- Model Shipways
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Nice work on this kit! Steve
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A great kit but it is an advanced kit as you have seen from many previous build logs. Check out this log for reference. One of my favorites and it will help you a great deal. Steve
- 24 replies
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- 18th Century Longboat
- Model Shipways
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I look forward to your build in AYC. A great reference log for this kit is by Bob F. Steve
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Gratings for the upper deck were completed using 3/16” cherry grating strips from Model Expo. The coamings were created first using a jig I created from previous projects. The quality of the grating strips were good. It was a tedious and frustrating process. The center gratings are slightly askew. This being my second assembly of this portion, I opted to not redo them. They will be obscured by the ships boat anyway. Steve
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Another superb and inspiring build! Steve
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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