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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Excited to see a Confederacy build from you, especially after an excellent Syren build! Steve
  2. Planking around gun ports- The plank is cut to size and pre-bent with dry heat. Bevel the edge as necessary to get a tight fit. Next, mark the port openings using a straight edge. I like to file the edges and then draw a horizontal reference line representing the top of the opening. Various files are used and the fit of the plank is checked constantly until there is a clean 1/64” reveal. Still working on a more uniform reveal. Steve
  3. The last version looks much cleaner and the color contrast with the boxwood is very nice. I’m going to need some moldings for my Confederacy 😜. Steve
  4. The initial planking is completed starboard. Sanding was done with 220 grit followed by 400 grit. Two coats of Wipe-On-Poly were applied with a 400 grit sanding between coats. 1/16” thick strips were a good design choice for this project. It allows for the needed sanding at the bow, which is tricky to say the least. I planked in scale length planks and left an approx 1/64” rabbet around the gun ports. Steve
  5. Here is a company I’ve used for the display case. https://www.casesforcollectibles.com/ Steve
  6. I marked off the reference lines for the initial planks with the bulwark template. Since I will only be planking one layer, I’m trying to figure out the scale lengths and planking pattern for butt ends. I calculated about 4” planks at this scale. I’m trying to follow Chuck’s planking pattern. It seems that some lengths used were longer than 4”. Are all planks supposed to be 4”? Looking for guidance on scale length planks. Steve
  7. The planking of bulkhead ZZ is complete. A maple strip was temporarily glued in place to assist with the planking. Gunport lids were created off ship with the jig I used for the panels of my Pinnace. This area is left untreated for now. You can tell the color difference in the last photo. Steve
  8. I think go with option two, but shape the rear of the panel so it transitions smoothly into the seat back. Steve
  9. Planking of the counter is complete. Planks were pre-bent with dry heat and allowed to cool completely. Light clamping was needed as shown in the photos. This area was treated with wipe-on-poly since it will not be painted. Planking bulkhead ZZ is next. Steve
  10. You are building momentum. Very nice. It’s hard to see how bad the off symmetry is in your photos. I would keep both garboard and the next streak the same shape so you have symmetry. Depends how much this will bother you. If you decide later on to redo it will be more painful. Just a point in reference many of us took forever to complete this project. It’s not about speed at all. Steve
  11. Looks good. Be careful of your clamping on the bow. The basswood will dent easily. Also, your garboard has too much of an abrupt curve. Just sand/file a bit more for the gentle curve. Before you glue, shape the next strake to see of you have the curve correct. Again, BobF and Erik have done this perfectly. Steve
  12. When you decide to add the transom, you will need to fair it with the hull. You can brace it from the top and even the sides. You can remove the bracing when the planking is done. Depending on how you decide to plank will determine where to place the bracing. Check out some of the logs for how people have done this. Steve
  13. Thank you. I used sanding sticks and blocks. Mostly used an Emory board 180/240 grit. Never free hand. Steve
  14. The hull is about 99% fair at this point. Be careful with the fragile gun ports during this process. Filler blocks were added at the bow. This made fairing that area much easier and hopefully will ease the job of planking. The stern needed a lot of sanding to get the batten to lie properly. My concern was keeping the shape of bulkhead ZZ symmetrical. The decks were added and the upper part of the hull was faired again. I included several photos. I hope they are helpful to others. Steve
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