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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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I would use a long free cloth wrapped around your finger and rub your finger between the ribs. Direction doesn’t matter too much on the inside of the hull. Floorboards will cover some of the finish anyway. What stain color did you decide? Steve
- 66 replies
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- bounty launch
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@ASAT just trying to add some humor to this. Didn’t mean to offend.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Chuck- Your tutorials are so clear. People are lucky you’ve provided templates for lining off the hull. Next, people will be asking you to mail them completed models. 😆 Steve
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Now that the initial phase of hull planking is almost complete, I thought it would be useful to share the method I’ve been using to plank around this tricky bow. 1. Measure 80% of the 1/8” plank width and mark at the tip of the plank. It’s .1”. I use digital calipers for this. Mark 3” from the edge of the plank and draw a line from this point to mark the taper. I sand up to this line by running the plank across a 220 grit sanding block. 2. Bevel the plank to fit against the previously laid plank on the hull. 3. Soak the plank in hot water for 5-10 minutes. (This is the only time I use water.) 4. Clamp the plank to the hull and heat the plank until it’s dry. Let it cool. 5. Mark the butt joint and sand. Test fit on the hull. 6. When you have a nice fit, mark the edge of the plank to simulate caulking. 7. Apply glue and re-clamp. For the hot water I use a Keurig. I keep a disposable coffee cup in my work area. This works well since the plank lengths at the bow are short. I’ve included a photo of the clamping. Steve
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People think everything is going to magically sand clean after sloppily planking. Don’t know why. The cleaner it is before you sand, the cleaner it will be after. One piece at a time! Steve
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- winchelsea
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Requesting feedback for future MSW Group Projects
Tigersteve replied to Chuck's topic in Group Projects on Model Ship World
I like the idea of a stern section. Steve -
Very sharp. Excellent as always. Steve
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
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Planking around gun ports- The plank is cut to size and pre-bent with dry heat. Bevel the edge as necessary to get a tight fit. Next, mark the port openings using a straight edge. I like to file the edges and then draw a horizontal reference line representing the top of the opening. Various files are used and the fit of the plank is checked constantly until there is a clean 1/64” reveal. Still working on a more uniform reveal. Steve
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The last version looks much cleaner and the color contrast with the boxwood is very nice. I’m going to need some moldings for my Confederacy 😜. Steve
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- winchelsea
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The initial planking is completed starboard. Sanding was done with 220 grit followed by 400 grit. Two coats of Wipe-On-Poly were applied with a 400 grit sanding between coats. 1/16” thick strips were a good design choice for this project. It allows for the needed sanding at the bow, which is tricky to say the least. I planked in scale length planks and left an approx 1/64” rabbet around the gun ports. Steve
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Here is a company I’ve used for the display case. https://www.casesforcollectibles.com/ Steve
- 50 replies
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- model shipways
- 18th century longboat
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Figure out a case for sure. It would be a shame.
- 242 replies
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- syren
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Another masterpiece in the making. Steve
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- winchelsea
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Some really nice work here. Steve
- 95 replies
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I marked off the reference lines for the initial planks with the bulwark template. Since I will only be planking one layer, I’m trying to figure out the scale lengths and planking pattern for butt ends. I calculated about 4” planks at this scale. I’m trying to follow Chuck’s planking pattern. It seems that some lengths used were longer than 4”. Are all planks supposed to be 4”? Looking for guidance on scale length planks. Steve
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Your hull looks really good. Steve
- 87 replies
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- medway longboat
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