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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Back to planking the remainder of the hull in basswood since this will be painted. Almost done with the first belt on the port side. I anticipate many rounds of sanding and filler. Not obsessing over this part of the planking, as I’m fairly sure I can get a nice surface for painting. A drop plank was created at the bow, which I may show in a later post. Nothing worth photographing at this point, but here’s a photo of some plank bending. Steve
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I think I had about 10 as well. Marking the frames will help keep your symmetry and the cap rail will finish it off nicely. I planked from the keel up and ended up redoing the top two strakes. Steve
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I had the name plate made at a trophy place. Very inexpensive. Steve
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Thin brass tubes or rods are the way to go. I used 1/16”. Steve
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Thanks! This was another challenging build, but I had a lot of fun modifying some of the features. Steve
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Really nice work on the mini version. Looking forward to seeing the larger one come together. Steve
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It’s looking excellent, Chuck. How is the learning curve with working with this wood? Specifically being able to avoid leaving dents since it’s very soft. Steve
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After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern. Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. Steve
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Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. Steve
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You should test on scrap wood. Steve
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I would use a long free cloth wrapped around your finger and rub your finger between the ribs. Direction doesn’t matter too much on the inside of the hull. Floorboards will cover some of the finish anyway. What stain color did you decide? Steve
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@ASAT just trying to add some humor to this. Didn’t mean to offend.
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Chuck- Your tutorials are so clear. People are lucky you’ve provided templates for lining off the hull. Next, people will be asking you to mail them completed models. 😆 Steve
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Now that the initial phase of hull planking is almost complete, I thought it would be useful to share the method I’ve been using to plank around this tricky bow. 1. Measure 80% of the 1/8” plank width and mark at the tip of the plank. It’s .1”. I use digital calipers for this. Mark 3” from the edge of the plank and draw a line from this point to mark the taper. I sand up to this line by running the plank across a 220 grit sanding block. 2. Bevel the plank to fit against the previously laid plank on the hull. 3. Soak the plank in hot water for 5-10 minutes. (This is the only time I use water.) 4. Clamp the plank to the hull and heat the plank until it’s dry. Let it cool. 5. Mark the butt joint and sand. Test fit on the hull. 6. When you have a nice fit, mark the edge of the plank to simulate caulking. 7. Apply glue and re-clamp. For the hot water I use a Keurig. I keep a disposable coffee cup in my work area. This works well since the plank lengths at the bow are short. I’ve included a photo of the clamping. Steve
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People think everything is going to magically sand clean after sloppily planking. Don’t know why. The cleaner it is before you sand, the cleaner it will be after. One piece at a time! Steve
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Requesting feedback for future MSW Group Projects
Tigersteve replied to Chuck's topic in Group Projects on Model Ship World
I like the idea of a stern section. Steve -
Very sharp. Excellent as always. Steve
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