Jump to content

Tigersteve

Members
  • Posts

    1,321
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Hull planking is complete. Several days of sanding and filling. I used 100 grit through 400 grit. After primer is applied I will see how much more work is necessary to achieve a smooth hull. The stern needs more sanding. I will sand more in that area after the keel and stern post are attached. A tip for those building this vessel in future. Add filler blocks for the first three bulkheads. This will show you if you have the correct shape and help with fairing and planking. I did not fair enough in some areas. The shape at the bow is tricky. Mine still needs work. Steve
  2. Careful with the sanding drum. May be better to use a sanding disc attachment. Easier to control. Steve
  3. Port side planking is complete. There’s more sanding and filling to do, but I will continue after I complete the starboard side. Rushing through some of this caused me to veer off my initial planking plan, which caused some problems and some weirdly shaped planks. Steve
  4. Just received my copy today. Looking forward to enjoying it. On first glance it looks well executed as expected. Steve
  5. Better to apply the wipe on poly after you have a satisfactory paint finish. I’ve found it difficult to apply paint coats over the wipe on poly. That would take many rounds of sanding and painting. Not impossible though. Steve
  6. Tamiya worked well for me. It’s fairly thin but you can thin it down with a bit of water and apply several thin coats until you have a nice finish. Sand between coats.
  7. Back to planking the remainder of the hull in basswood since this will be painted. Almost done with the first belt on the port side. I anticipate many rounds of sanding and filler. Not obsessing over this part of the planking, as I’m fairly sure I can get a nice surface for painting. A drop plank was created at the bow, which I may show in a later post. Nothing worth photographing at this point, but here’s a photo of some plank bending. Steve
  8. I think I had about 10 as well. Marking the frames will help keep your symmetry and the cap rail will finish it off nicely. I planked from the keel up and ended up redoing the top two strakes. Steve
  9. I had the name plate made at a trophy place. Very inexpensive. Steve
  10. Thin brass tubes or rods are the way to go. I used 1/16”. Steve
  11. Thanks! This was another challenging build, but I had a lot of fun modifying some of the features. Steve
  12. Really nice work on the mini version. Looking forward to seeing the larger one come together. Steve
  13. It’s looking excellent, Chuck. How is the learning curve with working with this wood? Specifically being able to avoid leaving dents since it’s very soft. Steve
  14. After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern. Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. Steve
  15. Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. Steve
  16. I would use a long free cloth wrapped around your finger and rub your finger between the ribs. Direction doesn’t matter too much on the inside of the hull. Floorboards will cover some of the finish anyway. What stain color did you decide? Steve
  17. Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. Steve
  18. Port side planking is complete. Two coats of wipe-on-poly applied at this point. I hope the photos show how nice this batch of cherry wood is. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...