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Tigersteve

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  1. Tigersteve
    Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed. I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    Thank you for the compliment and advice! Stuntflyer suggested the same (dullcoat). I’ll try not to obsess about the sheen, but I do have plenty work to do before that step. 😎 Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    The painting process continues. I’ll share a photo of the exterior hull as it stands. There’s a bit of a sheen that I want to eliminate. I’ve been alternating between exterior and interior. The interior needs more attention. I am also utilizing this project to hone my painting finishes. It will take a while. Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Lynn, As part of the learning experience I would suggest remaking that piece that split. I’m sure there is plenty wood in the kit. Trace your template and use a blade to make several passes along your lines. Use a metal ruler to guide your blade for the first pass or two. The groove will then guide the blade. You can sand it to shape after it is freed. it’s hard working with small parts. (frustrating!) That’s the learning curve. Trying to make everything clean and neat. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    Coming along! Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    Where do you source your acrylic cases from? Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    Are the oars attached with wood glue? Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    While test fitting and modifying the cap rail, one of the risers got snagged and needed to be reattached. This was an annoyance because it took me two attempts. The first resulted in an uneven pair of risers. It’s always painful to redo something, but the result is worth it. The macro photos really make you pick apart your work! Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    I appreciate the kind words. David has designed a nice entry level kit. Many people gravitate towards Model Shipways English Longboat for their first kit, most likely because of its size. However, that is an advanced kit and very difficult. It turns out a very nice model. (Chuck writes fantastic instructions for his projects.) This project is much more relaxing compared to that one. 😎 Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Coming along nicely! Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    No edge glue. Take time to properly prepare and fit the planks. Chuck’s tutorials should help. Extra glue will affect the finish when using WOP. Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    Before moving onto the cap rail I decided to work on the thwarts. These are not just removed from the sheet and attached to the boat. You must make adjustments. Beveling the sides and notches where they meet the frames is necessary for a tight fit. Quite a bit needed to be removed as they were oversized. I had to remake one thwart from scratch because I took off too much. I ran the thwarts over a 320 grit sanding block to create the bevel on the sides and used files to bevel the notches. These are not glued yet. Steve Druxey, the risers are stable. This procedure was a good test for them!
  13. Tigersteve
    Thank you. I will test the joints and see if the risers are sturdy enough before proceeding. Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    The risers were installed by marking their center and ends. I lined them up with the garboard strakes. Below is a photo of how little glue is required. These have been painted several coats and one sanding before the last coat applied. The interior is just about complete. After I complete tweaking the cap rail, I will take another close look at the interior and decide if the painting/sanding is complete. Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Lost track of the number of coats applied to this model. It is getting closer to an acceptable finish. Light 400 grit sanding roughly every 5-8 coats. (Not exact science) Thought I’d post a photo while this process continues. Next update will include the installed risers. Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Glad I came across this! Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    Great work as usual. Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    Cleaning char is a chore. Changing sandpaper when it gets clogged will help. I use 220 grit and then 320 grit. Real fine tuning with 400 grit (overkill, but it works well for me). As for your twarts, if you are not happy with them now you will never be (someone on MSW told me this once). Now’s the time to redo. It’s always better a second or third try. Also, he means soften the edge so it’s not so sharp. Really just a light sanding on the edge. I wouldn’t consider it a bevel. Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    Looking forward to the final presentation. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    He will find a way. 😀 Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    I mentioned $60 includes shipping to US only. Shipment originating from NY. Steve
  22. Tigersteve
    Decided to release my English Pinnace model from its display case. Up for sale is the acrylic case with black base. Dimensions are 13” x 6” x 5” tall. $60 free shipping. Ship to US only. PayPal payment. Please PM if interested. Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    See if you can correct that now instead of waiting until fully planked. If not, remove the planks and reshape from there. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    Frame head irons were created using scrap wood from the extra side cleats. These were glued and sanded to under 1/32” thickness when set. Next, I shaped and installed the Breast hook. Modifications of the bow and cap rail will reflect the photo of the dory shown below. I like this example and will be using the color scheme as inspiration. Steve https://iscc.marinersmuseum.org/watercraft/grand-banks-dory/
  25. Tigersteve
    Looks good to me so far. Treat each piece like a model itself and you’d be surprised with your end result. What’s the rush? Gluing technique will improve as you figure out your own tricks. Use less glue. You can also scrape some excess that dried, but be careful w the basswood. Steve

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