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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Completed display base. Next update will be after the cap rail is complete. As you can tell from my last two posts, this will take a while. There’s a lot of work necessary to get the model to an acceptable level. Steve
  2. The profile of the hull was used to trace a parallel line next to the cutout where the original cap rail piece was removed from the sheet. After the shape was roughly cut out, I moved the piece along 220 grit sandpaper that was wrapped around my finger. Kit basswood is good for this. All that is needed is your hobby knife and sandpaper. While the cap rail pieces get pre-painted before attaching to the hull, see the attached photo of my modified base parts. The original kit supplied base seemed oversized. The base was treated with pre-stain before applying a natural stain. Three coats of Wipe-On-Poly was applied with fine sanding in between. Steve
  3. Needed a break from painting so back to construction. I was finally able to install the first part of the cap rail. This was sanded flush with the gunwale. After the remaining pieces are installed, I will add some filler to any gaps and sand them flush. See the attached rough photo. Steve
  4. I’ve said it before. Mike’s projects make you elevate your own work. Just excellent! Thank you for raising the standard. Steve
  5. It looks good. These are some really difficult parts to make. Sometimes it’s good to step away for a bit. Each attempt will be better than the previous. Steve
  6. Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed. I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye. Steve
  7. Thank you for the compliment and advice! Stuntflyer suggested the same (dullcoat). I’ll try not to obsess about the sheen, but I do have plenty work to do before that step. 😎 Steve
  8. The painting process continues. I’ll share a photo of the exterior hull as it stands. There’s a bit of a sheen that I want to eliminate. I’ve been alternating between exterior and interior. The interior needs more attention. I am also utilizing this project to hone my painting finishes. It will take a while. Steve
  9. Lynn, As part of the learning experience I would suggest remaking that piece that split. I’m sure there is plenty wood in the kit. Trace your template and use a blade to make several passes along your lines. Use a metal ruler to guide your blade for the first pass or two. The groove will then guide the blade. You can sand it to shape after it is freed. it’s hard working with small parts. (frustrating!) That’s the learning curve. Trying to make everything clean and neat. Steve
  10. Where do you source your acrylic cases from? Steve
  11. While test fitting and modifying the cap rail, one of the risers got snagged and needed to be reattached. This was an annoyance because it took me two attempts. The first resulted in an uneven pair of risers. It’s always painful to redo something, but the result is worth it. The macro photos really make you pick apart your work! Steve
  12. I appreciate the kind words. David has designed a nice entry level kit. Many people gravitate towards Model Shipways English Longboat for their first kit, most likely because of its size. However, that is an advanced kit and very difficult. It turns out a very nice model. (Chuck writes fantastic instructions for his projects.) This project is much more relaxing compared to that one. 😎 Steve
  13. No edge glue. Take time to properly prepare and fit the planks. Chuck’s tutorials should help. Extra glue will affect the finish when using WOP. Steve
  14. Before moving onto the cap rail I decided to work on the thwarts. These are not just removed from the sheet and attached to the boat. You must make adjustments. Beveling the sides and notches where they meet the frames is necessary for a tight fit. Quite a bit needed to be removed as they were oversized. I had to remake one thwart from scratch because I took off too much. I ran the thwarts over a 320 grit sanding block to create the bevel on the sides and used files to bevel the notches. These are not glued yet. Steve Druxey, the risers are stable. This procedure was a good test for them!
  15. Thank you. I will test the joints and see if the risers are sturdy enough before proceeding. Steve
  16. The risers were installed by marking their center and ends. I lined them up with the garboard strakes. Below is a photo of how little glue is required. These have been painted several coats and one sanding before the last coat applied. The interior is just about complete. After I complete tweaking the cap rail, I will take another close look at the interior and decide if the painting/sanding is complete. Steve
  17. Lost track of the number of coats applied to this model. It is getting closer to an acceptable finish. Light 400 grit sanding roughly every 5-8 coats. (Not exact science) Thought I’d post a photo while this process continues. Next update will include the installed risers. Steve
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