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Tigersteve

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  1. I finished coating the hull in white. After removing the tape, I sanded the unpainted strakes and applied another coat of Wipe-On-Poly. Building a cradle to hold the model is next. Chuck applied a thin wash of brown paint to his hull and quickly wiped it off to dull the brightness of the white. I will do the same after the keel is in place. Steve
  2. Just about finished coating the hull with flat white. Many watered down coats were applied with a foam brush. After every few coats the hull was sanded lightly with 400 grit sandpaper. Steve
  3. 1:96 POB Build Log PDFs (part 3) Part 32- Waterways, Binding Strakes, Margin Planks.pdf Part 33- Main Deck Planking continued.pdf Part 34- Main Deck Finishing.pdf Part 35- Forecastle Deck Beams.pdf Part 36- Forecastle Deck Beams 2.pdf Part 37- Forecastle Deck Beams 3.pdf Part 38- Channels and Pin Rails.pdf Part 39- Stern Fancy Rail.pdf Part 40- Stern Fancy Rail 2.pdf Part 41- Forecastle Fancy Rail.pdf Part 42- Fancy Rail Completion.pdf
  4. 1:96 POB Build Log PDFs (part 2) Part 24- Main Deck Structural Work.pdf Part 25- Hull Planking.pdf Part 26- Hull Planking continued.pdf Part 27- Completing the Lower Hull Planking.pdf Part 28- Upper Channels, Poop Margin Plank.pdf Part 29- Poop Margin Plank 2.pdf Part 30- Coamings.pdf Part 31- Decking.pdf Part 22- Topside Works 2.pdf Part 23- Mooring Bitts, Boomkins.pdf
  5. 1:96 POB Build Log PDFs (part 1) Upon receiving volume 3 of Ed Tosti's Young America series, I realized there would be one more resource that would be valuable in this collection of resources: PDFs of Ed's 1:96 POB build log. I thought it would be useful to share the PDFs I created. The only editing done was for spacing and alignment of photographs. After I created the files, I contacted Ed for permission to share. He agreed that it would be useful to others. I also contacted Chuck to ask where to post these files. He has granted permission to post them here. There are 42 PDF files of the build log. Part 1- POB 1-96.pdf Part 2- POB 1-96.pdf Part 3- Erecting Bulkhead Assemblies.pdf Part 4- Hold Down Bolts.pdf Part 5- Mast Steps.pdf Part 6- Upper Stern.pdf Part 7- Lower Stern.pdf Part 8- Bow.pdf Part 9- Support for the Inverted Hull.pdf Part 10- Hull Fairing- Method 1.pdf Part 11- Hull Fairing- Method 2.pdf Part 12- Stem, Keel, Sternpost 1.pdf Part 13- Stem, Keel, Sternpost 2.pdf Part 14- Stem, Keel, Sternpost 3.pdf Part 15- Final Hull Fairing.pdf Part 16- Garboard Strake.pdf Part 17- Bottom Planking.pdf Part 18- Fairing the Upper Works.pdf Part 19- Planksheer.pdf Part 20- Knightheads.pdf Part 21- Topside Works 1.pdf
  6. A few progress photos. Getting closer to a completely smooth surface. Several sessions of wood filling and sanding. Checked the surface twice with a coat of primer. What’s been helpful is flipping the hull upright in the light to reveal surface inconsistencies. If I could go back I would have spent more time during hull planking to create tight plank joints. My haphazard (it’ll fill and sand fine) approach has created a lot of extra work. Steve
  7. Yes- I believe we are on the same page. My next step is filler and sanding then primer to see where the low spots are. I’m not trying to get a solid coat of primer. Thank you again, Mike. You are always a great mentor here. Steve
  8. Thank you for the kind words and the likes. I just applied one coat of gray water based primer using one of my wife’s old foundation makeup brushes. Very smooth bristles (works great for painting). I applied straight from the jar. This will allow me to see any areas that need filler and sanding. After further filling and sanding, I will reapply the primer and repeat until a completely smooth surface is achieved. After this, deck planking can begin. Steve
  9. I had received my copy of volume 3 before the holidays. Now that I have the correct CD sent from the publisher, I’d like to say some things about the whole package. Even after a quick look at the content included in the book, CD, and the 13 drawings, I can easily say that it’s extensive, wow! What a great resource Ed has put together. It would have been a shame to not have the correct CD, which includes several additional materials. The build log PDFs and rigging checklist are just some of the cherries on top. It’s worth purchasing even if just to find out how Ed contained the massive amount of rigging content into this single volume. It is well done. Steve
  10. Hull planking is complete. Several days of sanding and filling. I used 100 grit through 400 grit. After primer is applied I will see how much more work is necessary to achieve a smooth hull. The stern needs more sanding. I will sand more in that area after the keel and stern post are attached. A tip for those building this vessel in future. Add filler blocks for the first three bulkheads. This will show you if you have the correct shape and help with fairing and planking. I did not fair enough in some areas. The shape at the bow is tricky. Mine still needs work. Steve
  11. Careful with the sanding drum. May be better to use a sanding disc attachment. Easier to control. Steve
  12. Port side planking is complete. There’s more sanding and filling to do, but I will continue after I complete the starboard side. Rushing through some of this caused me to veer off my initial planking plan, which caused some problems and some weirdly shaped planks. Steve
  13. Just received my copy today. Looking forward to enjoying it. On first glance it looks well executed as expected. Steve
  14. Better to apply the wipe on poly after you have a satisfactory paint finish. I’ve found it difficult to apply paint coats over the wipe on poly. That would take many rounds of sanding and painting. Not impossible though. Steve
  15. Tamiya worked well for me. It’s fairly thin but you can thin it down with a bit of water and apply several thin coats until you have a nice finish. Sand between coats.
  16. Back to planking the remainder of the hull in basswood since this will be painted. Almost done with the first belt on the port side. I anticipate many rounds of sanding and filler. Not obsessing over this part of the planking, as I’m fairly sure I can get a nice surface for painting. A drop plank was created at the bow, which I may show in a later post. Nothing worth photographing at this point, but here’s a photo of some plank bending. Steve
  17. I think I had about 10 as well. Marking the frames will help keep your symmetry and the cap rail will finish it off nicely. I planked from the keel up and ended up redoing the top two strakes. Steve
  18. I had the name plate made at a trophy place. Very inexpensive. Steve
  19. Thin brass tubes or rods are the way to go. I used 1/16”. Steve
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