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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. Hi Sal You are doing so much precision work on Phantom that I haven't seen before on this kit. It always struck me as an awkward model to make clean and crisp. Perhaps it is but you have overcome that. Great stuff - precise, clean and crisp. It is a pleasure to look at your work.
  2. I see John's point about a band around the mast but heck...your rigging work is superb in every way and such details, while they might add to things, are just gilding the lily.
  3. All the deck fittings look great Ken. A launch party post installing the last four guns is well deserved!
  4. Hi Curtis I can't remember my own sequence there but I do remember following the practicum to the letter and it certainly worked. One of the best things about the practicum is how it teaches a sequence of work (which varies from the kit instructions) and I'd follow it if I was you. Your AVS is coming on very well by the looks of it.
  5. Good one Gary. They sure do look the part with that little detail added.
  6. Hi Gary I don't pre-shape the strip at all. By sequentially gluing it I just shape it as I go using a toothpick to push it into the start and finish of the curve over the trunnion. P.S. Also when I say a long strip I mean 5 - 6 inches long - makes it very easy to hold and align.
  7. Hi Gary I agree with Russ. I use manila folder, thin card. Brass would be flasher but I can't get it to fold in a way that looks as good as card. I cut a long strip of card painted black and glue it to the front of the top edge of the carriage, roll and glue it over the trunnion, glue it to the aft of the trunnion, cut the remaining length of strip off with #11 blade and then touch up the cut end with black paint. The beauty of using a long strip is that it allows much more control over the initial placement and alignment of the piece. Some here add even more detail to this piece as the cap squares were hinged at the front and pinned at the aft end. I don't go that far. I also do them when the cannon is off the model, your situation maybe a little more tricky...
  8. Snow in Nelson? Well it sure is cold here. I guess I won't turn you towards a painted version but it does pick up those details...photo taken this afternoon in the sun.
  9. Looking good Brett. Getting those cap rails on is a big hurdle to cross. I had to scratch build mine at the bow as the kit bits and the hull curvature didn't align. There is another strake that sits below the cap rails; they are slightly proud of it and it is proud of the planking below. I can't tell if you have added this yet or even intend to?
  10. Brilliant work Jesse. Can't believe you can do that virtually single handed. Steve is right - I hope your Doc isn't a member here!
  11. Stunning work on the deck Nigel. Robert (j21896) used Swiss pear for his superb deck on HMS Mars. I sure do like the look and colour of this wood and the black tissue for caulking is a very clever touch.
  12. Very nice work on the gun rig there Gary. The barrels look superb. Are you going to add cap squares? I do these with thin card painted black. I also agree with Russ, it is much easier to do the coils separately.
  13. Best wishes for your AVS build Curtis. You are in good hands with Mr Hunt's practicum. My only advice is to ignore the kit instructions. That is; don't try to mix them in with Bob's. AVS is a sweet little ship and I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I'll keep following your log.
  14. Wow. Great stuff and great photography. Ray you are on top of this craft - a pleasure to view.
  15. And suddenly I see you are finished! Great work - it is superb model and you've done a great job. Congratulations!
  16. Hi Caroline Whenever it has a fit with you we look forward to your updates.
  17. Hi Ken Hmmm. Honestly, I don't think that capstan is up to the rest of your build. These are pesky things to make but they are also central to the deck fittings. I think you'll not like this later on. Sorry if I'm being too frank. What height and diameter is the capstan - the cap that is - at 1/48? I have two spare kit, multiple, pieces from Fly/Pegasus that you are welcome to try as an alternative but they are 1/64. They are built in my log but I have an extra set of un-built laser cut parts for them.
  18. Hey Jesse - best wishes mate. Kia kaha and be back soon. Your skills have very good hands and I'm sure they'll be much better hands after the down time.
  19. I wouldn't worry about the angle. Leave as is IMO - if you are few degrees out who will know. Don't know about lashings or pins but it does feel like it needs some form of fixing. It can't have been lashed to the pin rail on the bits - way too much force against those...I don't know. Sorry not much help.
  20. Yikes! Leave it off no one will know!! You have done such a good job on that Letraset and I was one of those who sent you there and sent some letters. I didn't include any full stops with what I sent - carry on regardless of my trainspotting! I'd have included lots of full stops if I'd known at the time.
  21. Yep for sure. The ship name ended in a full stop. Here is the stern of Fly with a full stop from NNM contemporary drawings. The FFM is very clear about this as well. Pegasus was painted on the counter PEGASUS . (full stop). I guess it was a rule of the time - a singular title ended in a full stop. It doesn't need to change the centring of the letters, it is just a little add that is apparently accurate. Edit - found the reference in the FFM, page 310 VII - "...don't forget the period (full stop) which was added after the name".
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