aliluke
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Everything posted by aliluke
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Nice progress Louis. I'm guessing your deck fittings aren't fixed down yet but one small note; your riding bit is the wrong way around - the bit should be aft of the pins not forward of them. -
Stunning work mate. Super crisp and accurate. Hope you are enjoying an East Coast summer. Here it is cold, wet and dark.....
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Hi Richard Just came across your log. I like this style of ship very much. That's a gutsy decision to re-plank the deck. My Fly model is holly from Hobby Mill. Jeff's product is very precise and the holly comes up a treat. Have a look...
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Hi Nils Although I've looked in now and again I never have said anything on your build. This is because it is the Scratch Forum while I mostly hang out in the Kit Forum . Great work on your Pegasus - everything looks very authentic. You do have a lot of rope on the decks from the gun tackles. That is why I left the rear tackles off my Fly but that is just a choice...Anyway good stuff and keep it coming!
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Can't answer your question Bob but stepping back a bit...You have certainly nailed that stern; colour, painting, detail and fabrication. Absolutely brilliant work - Bravo (worth much more than a Like!). Looking forward to seeing it the right way up - I struggle to do head stands in front of my computer screen...
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Hi Louis I'm with Spyglass here. On my log you can see an area of lower deck planking beneath the fore/ladder hatch. This is just visible when the ladder is in place. I use an HB pencil to simulate caulking. Some do it on only one side of adjoining planks - this makes repairing any gaps easier. I do it on both and hope I don't have gaps!
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Hamilton - I'll bet you are being too hard on yourself. "Embarrass" it and we'll see. I reckon it is probably as good as anyone of us can do.
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Looking forward to this Jason - a magnificent ship to model.
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Hi Nicholas All the bulkheads fitted well on my kit - no issues to alert you to excepting for the normal need to get them square, true and properly seated on the centre piece. As you'll see in other logs the gun port plywood strips are where the kit gets a little bit more challenging...
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I'm in full agreement with B.E. here Martin. I have also made the ladder at the fore end of the main deck just haven't installed it yet.
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Hi Martin A couple of thoughts... I don't think you want the grate to project above the coaming. This applies to the side of your grates. They should sit fully inside the coaming and the exposed edges of the grating on the sides is awkward. If you can, try and set out and cut the gratings so you form a full frame at their perimeter. I managed this with all my main deck gratings but failed to so on the QD gratings. That was just the way they worked out and I think I had my eye off the ball a bit as well. I'm still not convinced by the heavily curved grating and coaming versus a flatter version. I guess that is just a matter of taste.
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Superb gun rigs there Timmo and all else besides. A long time between drinks but worth the wait!
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Everything looks fantastic Bob, Superbly crisp, clean and accurate. I didn't know you can't get Pollyscale paint anymore. I'm running low on my stocks .
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Hi Brett That's great - I thought it looked good! Look forward to pictures of the completed phase.
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Hi Brett Struggling to understand your issues. Do you have a picture of the stern or from the stern?
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Wow Mike You sure are drilling into the research and detail on this. It is looking extremely good and your efforts are well worthwhile.
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Welcome Louis to the Swan Class build. It is a great kit and I hope you enjoy the process of building it. You've probably already had a look at the many logs for it. I, like Blue Ensign and others, are modifying it to more closely follow the Seawatch book series on the Swan Class - The Fully Framed Model. Volume II and Volume IV being the strongest references. Dan's build of the Vulture in the scratch built forum follows this as well but in much greater detail. However straight out of the box it will still make a fantastic model and adherence to the FFM is a personal choice rather than a necessity. I look forward to seeing your start and progress. With all the Swan builders here you are sure to get lots of advice and answers to any questions.
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Heck Michael! And I was complaining about my little QD skylight. That is amazingly small work. Will troll back through your log now - if you can pull that off you can do anything!
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:D :D Yeah pretty wacky mail. But we are paying it forward - its one of the great things about this site. I'm still admiring your work in all regards - very neat stuff!
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Stunning mate. CONGRATULATIONS! It is always a nice moment but you'll probably miss fiddling with it...
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Hi Your work looks very good. Those squares are the sweep ports and are definitely an accurate inclusion on such a ship. To form them I'd use a fine drill bit in a pin vise and drill close to each corner then I would cut them out from those holes with a scalpel blade. Then finish with a needle file. Not easy to do with that depth of 6mm. If you'd rather save yourself the risk you could leave them off but they really should be there.
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Hi Martin No I don't install the grating first when sanding the coaming to size. I don't have any problem with them breaking up as I find the corner box joint to be very strong. I'm not sure about the curvature thing. I asked Dan about it in his Vulture log and he reckons the curvature should be much greater than the deck camber. To my eye the flatter version with only a slight curvature looks better even if it is historically inaccurate....
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Marisstella - Your kits look fantastic. I'm completely convinced. Not sure which one I'll chose but you are on my list. Great work!
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Hi Martin I don't use a rabbet. I just butt the deck planks to the edge of the coaming. I set up the planks first and make the coaming fractionally larger than the set up. I then gently sand the coaming back until I get a really tight fit. I don't use a rabbet or ledges to support the grates either I just make that a super tight fit as well. I also have very little curvature on the coaming such that you couldn't even measure the difference between the high and low point. I know people put much more curvature on them. I'm not sure which is more correct.
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Actually Spyglass the projection of my coamings above the deck is still too high even with the inset. According to the FFM it should be about 2mm at 1:48 and I'm at 2mm at 1:64. Martin the beauty of insetting, if done accurately, is that you get a very clean line to the coaming and it looks correct. You need to cut the planks back from the false deck cut outs to give the coaming a little ledge to fix to. Up to you of course - I note that B.E lays his on top of the planks rather than insetting them and who can question his results!!!
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