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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. aliluke
    Looks perfect to me. Absolutely spot on. Much better than PE brass letters. The height of the lettering doses not seem an issue and I think that 1 or 2mm too high set out will disappear in your minds eye as the build goes on. Clean and very crisp. Bravo! It seems that a full stop was added after the name - might be a nice addition?
  2. aliluke
    Hi Ollie Will look forward to your progress on this. Looks like a good buy and your skill will do a great rendering I'm sure. Think about holy for the deck maybe - see my Fly and Bob's - "rafine" 's - work on Essex. Not cheap but a great timber to work with. P.S. Good to put a face with the name!
  3. aliluke
    Seriously good rigging work Jason. I'll be back into your log when I get to this stage.
  4. aliluke
    Nice, nice and very nice. You have avoided the hour glass effect on the shrouds and the rope colours look spot on.
  5. aliluke
    Hi Matti I'm still following in the background. Amazing work and I really like your outdoor shots. The flag looks superb but everything on your model does too!
  6. aliluke
    You're a natural Ollie. Great work. Couldn't believe at first how tall that sailor was but you're right. I retract my comment, no problem for that guy to leap onto the rats.
  7. aliluke
    Looking really good Gary. The only real difference in my technique is that I rig the breeching rope with the cannon off the model and then insert the ring/eye bolt combo at the ends of the rope into pre-drilled holes in the bulwark when the cannon is installed on the model. I just find that is an easier way to get the knot or seizing to the ring completed and to control the length of the rope. But, hey, whatever works for you is the right way to do it!
  8. aliluke
    Hi Bob Seriously good work as usual. There's been some discussion on cannon rigging and the deck ring bolts recently. My thinking - and I'm flying blind here - is that a cannon would not have the side tackles and the rear tackles rigged at the same time. As I figure it - guessing again - the rear tackle is used to haul the cannon inboard for stowage. The side tackles are used to haul the cannon out and train it to left or right. I think that the rear tackle would be borrowed from one of the side tackles when inboard stowage is needed. So I'm on your wavelength - side tackles, deck eye and ring bolts in place but no rear tackle. In one way it saves us yet another rig even if we are wrong!!!
  9. aliluke
    Incredible precision Pete. I'm in your rear view mirror, coated with dust and little hope of catching up. Brilliant work and thanks for sharing.
  10. aliluke
    Exceptional work Bob. She's turning into a jewel.
  11. aliluke
    Yes they look too bulky to my eye, I'd incline to 3/4 that size - a guess. Purpose - firstly a spreader for the shrouds and secondly a step on to the ratlines for the sailors but that's a guess too. One thought is that your sailors would have to have very long legs to get onto the lines. Your lanyards may be a bit long. Don't change them! Just a thought.
  12. aliluke
    Looking really sharp Ollie. Is that kit supplied rope? It looks really good and if it came with the kit it would definitely qualify as better quality than most kits come with.
  13. aliluke
    Hi Ron A bit of rubbing with tissue paper will give the Dullcote a slight sheen. I did this on my wales on Fly. Your Endeavour is looking really good. The lines look great and you have planked a beast of a thing to plank. I look forward to more of your progress.
  14. aliluke
    It is really coming to life now. Looks great - fantastic work.
  15. aliluke
    Whatever you do with the sweep ports I definitely wouldn't make them larger. They will look out of proportion. I'd be wary of your cannon rigging plan. It will hard to get the breeching rope to look right by CA gluing it to the cascabel. The alternative is easy enough to handle. Tie or seize one end to the ring bolt that is going to go into the bulkwark. Thread it through the cannon with a single wrap around the cascabel. Work out the correct length to the next ring bolt (you could actually lightly CA glue the rope to that ring to temporarily fix that length). To give yourself room, unwrap the rope from the cascabel and pull the rope so that the first ring bolt is pulled through to the ring bolt on the cannon carriage. Tie or seize the second ring bolt. Re set the rope with the single wrap around the cascabel so the lengths are the same each side. Up to you of course but that's the way I'd do it.
  16. aliluke
    Nice work Vitus - your deck planking is very good. I'm building up to this step. Good to see your planking layout and nice to see that you tapered and hooded the planks into the margin (much better than a straight run and butt). That is my plan as well although it scares me a bit. I'm also pleased to see that you have a bit of kink where the two, dreaded, plywood gun port patterns meet. I have one too and only just noticed it when I dry fitted the quarter deck - it made me angry. But I am not alone! and we will have to work through that together. That said it isn't a big issue and I think the cap rail will sort it out so that it is no longer perceptible. I'm intrigued that you have the inner layer of the stern piece already on. Do you intend to glaze each stern window and then lay them in? Or are they already in and glazed? I'm going around in circles thinking of how to do this but your method - if you can explain it - was not one that entered that circle. My plan was to do the quarter deck with the stern transom off and then build that as a complete piece, curved, fully glazed and then fix it into place - with the last step being the most difficult...
  17. aliluke
    Great outcome on the cannon rigs Ollie. Spot on to my eye. You're lucky to only have two to do but now you've cracked it onto a 74 gun ship for your next model?!
  18. aliluke
    Lots of progress there. The stern looks good. One thought there though if the gladiators holding the bombs have flesh painted faces shouldn't their arms and legs also be flesh coloured? On the cannon rigging - the breeching ropes go through a ring bolt on the side of the cannon. If you have tied them off to ring bolts and eyes at both ends then you won't be able to thread them through the ring bolt on the side of the cannon unless that ring is over scale. When I did them I threaded the rope onto the cannon and then tied them off at each end to a ring on an eye bolt. This is done while the cannon is off the model. As for the sweep port lids - you could get away with no lid. It is a nice detail to add but, for instance, the Fly model I'm working on doesn't have lids. I considered adding them but have decided not to. Anyway it is a solution that will save you further grief with those tiny hinges.
  19. aliluke
    Hi Ollie The rig looks great. John is right. Have a look at my post on KenW's Fair American of my AVS rig. The tackle is tensioned and then CA glued to the deck and cut (right hand side in the picture) the coil is laid over the top of the cut end (left hand side in the picture). Note that I think the coils I made are too big in diameter and there is too much rope on them.
  20. aliluke
    I still favour the stern for the boat Ollie. But I'm into symmetry I guess.
  21. aliluke
    Hi Brett I wouldn't leave the walnut rough. To protect adjacent paintwork I suggest; make sure it is fully sealed with whatever clear finish you are going to use (I use Testors Dullcote) then cover it with a low tack masking tape e.g.Tamiya. Don't use high tack tapes as can take off the paint when you remove them. Even with low tack remove it very gently. Also try to avoid sanding the masking tape. Are you painting the exterior? If you are another wee trick is to make the joints between the outer bulwark planks so that the joint is visible through the paint. I did this by putting a small bevel on the edge of the plank before laying them but light and careful scoring of the joint could work too. This can be seen on my log. I think it looks better than a solid painted surface.
  22. aliluke
    Hi Brett The big hurdles on the upper works are over. Good stuff. The lower hull outer planking isn't too hard. You have got past all of the set out relationships and now you can relax and enjoy. One piece of advice - look after your waterway when you clean up the inner bulwarks - mask it. It a striking feature of the kit and would be a bugger to replace if it got damaged. Also hold on to the spirketing (sp?) plank thickness above the waterway - it should be slightly thicker than the upper bulwark planks and, again, is a nice detail to maintain if you can. My little experience in this craft suggests that major re-works have to become increasingly minor as the work goes on. You are into the finishing stages of the hull and it will, very soon, become a precious thing. I tell myself the same on my current model but still go around in circles of fix/correct/re-fix/ correct.... Anyway, nice to see you pushing forward and it looks really good.
  23. aliluke
    Hi Ollie If I was you I'd leave them just the way you have them. It's only trainspotters who will take you to task. The added detail of the tackles is a nice one and I don't regret them on my AVS. I'll certainly add them to Fly. The configuration can imply; storing the cannon while at sea, making the cannon ready for battle or defense, laying out the cannon for inspection; etc. I reckon go for your visual choice. The frapping looks really hard and adjusting the rig buy using coils will be my repeat choice.
  24. aliluke
    Hi Ollie Have to agree with John there. Too wide and too low. I wouldn't die in a ditch over it though...everything else looks really great - rope scale, blocks etc. There is a bit of discussion on tackles on KenW's Fair American build log at the moment - might be worth a look for you.
  25. aliluke
    Hi Ken Page 40 of Dafi's Victory log shows stowed cannons with the barrel elevated to be above the port and various lashings. No idea how correct it is but given his thoroughness it must be close - it is a nice page for other reasons as well... Your rig looks great to me. I'm still going to go down the coiled route on Fly. As Gary says it is your ship!

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