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tlevine

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Posts posted by tlevine

  1. Sorry for the late reply.  I posted yesterday but for some reason it did not "take".

     

    You are correct.  The bevel continuously changes from the keel to the top of the planking, ending up at 90 degrees, just like a mortice.  Think of it this way...  On a typical kit build, you undercut the end of the plank so that it lays flat against the stem; at the keel you do the same thing to the side of the plank.  On a real ship, the ends and sides of the plank remain at right angles to the face of the plank.  To accomplish this, we need a groove, or rabbet, to seat the end or side of the plank into.  The rabbet is always 90 degrees.  Since this hull is bluff-bowed, the planks intersect the bow at almost a right angle in the upper planking belts.  On a clipper ship, the angle at which the plank meets the stem will not change so dramatically.  In similar fashion, if this were a flat-bottomed boat, the rabbet on the keel would be at a right angle to the keel, not at a +/-45 degree angle the way it is in the forward part of this ship.  In the picture below, there is a smooth line extending from the keel up the stem.  As the angle that the planking intersects the stem increases, the angle of the rabbet also increases and the overall width of the rabbet diminishes.

     

    I hope I am making at least a little sense.

     

    17778471_Rabbetdrawncloseupbowa1001.jpg.39701f97792295555b95655ec6274c52.jpg

  2. I have finally finished installing the rivets on the port side.  As these would have been hand forged, I used square copper wire fit into a size 77 hole.  After all the wires were inserted, the hull looked like a porcupine on a bad hair day.  In the photos, I have started to flatten the heads using a flat file and rotary sanding disc on the Dremel.  Once all the heads were flattened, I finished up with 400 grit sandpaper.

     

    125129327_Porcupine1a.thumb.jpg.1262eb8499b4c06f7b4aaa10832d1ba2.jpg

    361812542_Porcupine2a.thumb.jpg.1c62287540a122b1f5a2ba010b76f7c5.jpg

    971349466_Porcupine3a.thumb.jpg.6d3830d34db18c8e5234774b4a220d8a.jpg

    Once the sanding and filing was completed, I put a coat of Watco's on the finished side.  After both sides are completed I will add a second coat and then paint the wale.  Over time, as the pear darkens, there will be more of a contrast between the castello above the wale and the hull below.

     

    234498547_Portboltsdone1a.thumb.jpg.70f2a02154f20bf25d8b92b1b59a4047.jpg

    1226330309_Portboltsdone2a.thumb.jpg.0d06ec31058b9a82da849511085238f8.jpg

    1218669507_Portboltsdone3a.thumb.jpg.87f4249a99d6289eb90cb67a47063884.jpg

    2040259999_Portboltsdone4a.thumb.jpg.122b46652aba183be0b43b3a64734481.jpg

    839185860_Portboltsdone5a.thumb.jpg.8c6b43182150ed2d6ec1340d7189d99c.jpg

  3. It isn't the first time and it certainly won't be the last!  😁 

     

    Seriously, Stephen, I am more than happy to answer any questions about the half-hull kit.  Let me also encourage you to join the Guild.  The quarterly Journal is a good source of modeling information as well as maritime history.  And as Ryland says, members receive a discount on all the products in the store.  But the Guild is much more than that.  It is an organization comprised of like-minded individuals who want to promote and enhance our hobby of model ship building.

  4. Might I suggest various diameter sauce pans instead of the rolling pin.  It is much easier to secure the plank to the rim of the sauce pan with clamps or bull-dog clips than to a solid surface, such as the rolling pin.  This works well for me.  1. Secure the end of the plank to the rim of the sauce pan.  2. Put a few inches of water into the pan and put the pan on low heat (this will warm the plank without much risk of getting burnt).  3. Gently bend the plank around the pan with one hand while using a hair dryer in the other hand to supply more heat and airflow.  4. Overbend the plank to compensate for springback.  5 Once you are happy with the curve, clamp the other end of the plank to the pan, turn off the heat and come back when it is completely cool.

     

    Whenever you are trying to bend a strip of wood, test bend it first to see which direction it is "happier" bending.  Otherwise, you will end up with a lot of splintered wood.

  5. Your water stain is probably a glue stain.  If so, it has most likely soaked into the wood.  Why do you heat the plank after gluing?  Is it possible to remove that plank without damaging the surrounding planks?  If you used white or yellow glue, isopropyl alcohol will dissolve the glue securing the planks to allow you to remove and replace them.

  6. That was really bad, druxey.  I guess that I should not have relied on just one source.  I have not found any other sources that confirm Goodwin's approach.  Thank you, Dan for bringing this to my attention.  In a way this is a blessing.  Those little copper circles are a pain to install.  I just hope I can remove them (and the adhesive) without causing any damge.  To say that I am not in the mood to replank the upper four rows would be an understatement.  

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