tlevine

Looks very nice.  Looking forward to seeing the final product.

I would apply the finishing wood last.  That way it will cover up any dings that occur along the way.

Another place to look is the Half Hull Planking Project.  This was designed for novice modelers.

The first post is the hardest.  Welcome to MSW!

I have no experience with this wood.  How hard is it?  I would probably use it for things like hatch covers rather than pillars.

Have you considered photoetching thin sheet brass?

At the top of the deck plan there is the comment "the ticked lines and those in green are proposed alterations, the others are as she is now".  Also, look where the magazine lantern is in location to the faint word "magazine".

That hull is looking very nice.

The updated version has been added to the Resources section.

I use Danish Oil for all of my models.  My Hannah was made from pear (not swiss pear).  It darkened the wood slightly but brought out the character of the grain.

I received a shipping notice today.

I find size 10 crochet hooks to be very useful with rigging.  Readily found in sewing stores and Amazon.

Take a look at the build log for the NRG rigging kit.  The second fanciest tool is a fan showing the distance between ratlines.  The two things you need to acquire are information about which lines are served and a serving machine.  Of the ones commercially available today, Syren's is the best by far.

First, welcome to MSW. 

What is your interest?  Kits come with sufficient materials to make the boat.  As a novice, learn the skills first, then concern yourself with the "best" materials.  That is a concern for kit bashers and scratch builders.

Like your taste in moral support.  I would suggest going low tech...  Hold the material in your hand and shape it with a file.

It is what I use.

I use warm Sparex prior to blackening.  I typically let it soak for 5-10 minutes and then dip the part in water before blackening.  Keep in mind that you need to use copper or wood tongs to remove the parts from the Sparex.  

How many times have we all "been there, done that"!

I put everything that needs blackening in the Sparex.  Mix up a batch, keep a lid on the pot and plug it in whenever you need it.  Just remember, copper tongs are required to remove anything from it.

I have the best luck by soaking the parts in warm Sparex, followed by a dip in water and then in a 1:5 solution of Birchwood Casey to water.  I give them several short dips of 15-30 seconds with polishing in between.  Finally, they get a thin coat of Dulcote.  

Welcome to MSW!

Some people prefer to rig fore to aft.  Others, just the opposite.  A good rule of thumb for deciding whether a line is found port and starboard vs. one side only is to consider what each line is used for.  

As far as making masts, take a look at this.  Scroll down to installment 20.

The cannon files are available on the NRG website in the Resources section.  https://thenrg.org/page-1075420  Thanks, Ron.

Absolutely!  And thank you for the donation.

Liver of sulfur works on copper and silver, not brass.

If you put an oil based finish on the deadeye before placing it into the chainplate, you can put the deadeye/chain plate assembly into Birchwood Casey without staining the deadeye.