Hubac's Historian
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Everything posted by Hubac's Historian
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On castings as nice as these, that wash really makes the detail pop. I’m especially impressed by the quality of the figurehead. It is interesting that the standard alignment of the trailboard could be that out of alignment with the knees of the head. Once again - a masterful job at bringing it all together cohesively. -
I agree - I love the sense of depth and shading! It’s good to be a little impulsive, sometimes.
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I don’t know why, but the most recent update I can see is from September 7th. This, even from a direct link from the email alerting me to new content. Weird.
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Thank you, Marc! I think you are referring to the headrail support timbers. I think that all of this effort to create reasonable clearance beneath the headrails will result in a nice upward sweep of these support timbers. It has been a lot of fiddling and fussing about, but the effort seems to have been worthwhile. I will reserve judgement until after it has all come together. Painting of the headrails is a very slow business. The yellow ocher, in particular, has to be cut-in by hand and maintaining fair lines around these curved parts has proved especially challenging. It will get there, eventually.
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- heller
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It’s non-sensible what Heller drew, there, but part 162 is actually the fore-halliard knight for the forecastle deck on step 14. I have no idea why they are showing it with the quarterdeck assembly. I suppose it is the same forward-thinking that has you assembling the main deck long before necessary.
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Michael, do you use a combination of laid-up scale rope, as well as various standard thread weights?
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Since you are doing this model as recovered and re-constructed, might you consider doing an as-recovered sail?
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The blocks are dummy carriages that enable me to install the middle and lower deck guns at the end of the build; less opportunity for breakage and it saved me from having to make all of those extra carriages that can’t be seen, anyway. Because I cut away the lower hull, I had to make mast steps for the fore and mizzen masts on the lower deck. These steps enabled me to adjust the height of the fore and mizzen, relative to the main mast, which I raised by about a 1/2” higher than the stock kit.
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Yes, Bill, that is basically my plan. I’ve secured the in-board end of the haul-down to an eye-bolt at the top of my dummy carriage blocks. Happy Thanksgiving to all! There is much to be thankful for, here on MSW, and I appreciate everyone’s unique contributions to the forum. All the best, Marc
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- Le Soleil Royal
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To be honest, I’m not sure what I really know - I can only draw inferences from the best primary sources I’ve found. I like Henry’s idea about half-drilling holes and using stiffened thread or wire for the lifts. If I were going to show my lids in the more realistic 1/2 or 3/4 open view, this would be my approach. Personally, I’m going for the less realistic fully open view because I spent too much effort detailing the inner lids to hide them. I’m only doing a single-lanyard haul-down, which is also, apparently, less realistic.
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Extremely well done, Mike. It is fascinating that this area of supporting timbers is more of a “splay” than a rigidly parallel construction. This is art infused with the science of the thing. Very impressive!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I second that!
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The kit shows two lanyards. Girardon’s drawing if the RD1668 shows two: Puget’s drawing of the DR1681 shows two: Puget’s drawing of the Monarque shows two: Two seems like a likely number for the lifting ropes.
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- Le Soleil Royal
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‘Not sure I’m right about that either. Spell-check had issues with it, but I didn’t like the alternatives.
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I am your online source, Bill. I have the benefit of building the kit (or, at least starting to build the first one) some 36 years ago. I moved really slow on that one! This current kit build sat in my parents’ basement for some 20+ years, before I figured out what to do with it. I spent plenty of time, over the years, looking at kit sprues. There is almost nothing in this kit that I won’t immediately recognize - excepting for the kit-supplied blocks, which are numerous, confusing, and mostly best thrown-away.
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Well, Ian, it was always a model, but NOW it’s a model; you bled on, or near it. Congratulations! Kidding, of course - I love your inventiveness and willingness to do difficult things. I’m glad you are on the mend.
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This is your main mast step. There is a corresponding rectangle moulded into the hull interior, where this piece is glued-in. Nice work, on the pedestal drilling, BTW.
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- Le Soleil Royal
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It is frigid today, but no snow in NYC, at least.
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I really like that base you made.
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Before putting in the lower deck, I would re-enforce the seam on the inside with strip styrene; you will have to flex the hull, a little, to get the glued-together deck in place, so I always think it is worthwhile to do this. I would not bother painting the lower decks. You’ll want a good styrene to styrene bond for the carriage wheels because you definitely don’t want to have to fish around for loose carriages when all of the decks are covered over. Victor Yankovich is doing an amazing SR bash, and I’m pretty sure he used brass pedestals on the keel. This is a nice upgrade. The Heller base is not bad, but the brass looks really swanky.
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As usual, David - you are right-on-point. Yes, I was thinking the same thing. Thank you, Michael!
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It turns out that coaching my son’s 5th grade CYO basketball team has been more involved than I anticipated; owing to the pandemic, we are essentially starting from scratch, so I have spent quite a lot of time finding good fundamentals drills, while I learn the broad-strokes of the Pack-Line defense. It is all good fun, but it has cut into ship time. I did manage to finish up my starboard bow angel: I did a final/final fitting of the headrails and their supports. Those have now been masked, primed and I’ve begun putting them into colors. Per Nigel’s suggestion, I am filling-in the missing stair treads on the lower beakhead bulkhead, where the turret seats of ease used to be. I made a cardboard pattern for the forward terminus of the head grating. I’ve found that saturating this thin card with common CA (thin) makes it into a durable pattern: I made a rub-tracing of the middle headrail profile, so that I could pattern the arcing slats of the grating. I am also very happy with how this representation of scroll heads came out, in simulation of the headrail supports actually finishing beneath the lowest headrail: As these are thoroughly impossible to carve at this scale, I make these from two diameters of styrene rod. It’s a little fiddly to mate the beveled end of the larger diam. rod to that of the smaller diam. rod, but I found that touching my knife point to a drop of liquid styrene cement enabled me to pick these tiny bits up and place them onto a glue spot where they belong. I’ll be painting for some time, but soon the whole head structure will begin to come together. Thank you for stopping by.
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- heller
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Yes, Philemon, you are being met with hostility because you are leading with hostility. At best, to dismiss Ab’s work on Witsen’s pinas ship is mis-placed. At worst, it is self-serving, yet it doesn’t serve you well here. The question of who you are, I think, is relevant when you are tearing someone down to make your point. Ab Hoving took the opaque work of Witsen and made it coherent and intelligible. He spent 14 years on the endeavor, and it resulted in a fully coherent ship model, and his work now also exists as a virtual treatise that takes you inside the ship and across every square inch. I think that all counts as quite a significant accomplishment. Ab Hoving is not a personal friend of mine. I have had a few exchanges with him on the various forums, where I have found him to be informative and gracious with his time and insight to myself and other model makers. It is not my point that authors of books on any subject are wholly un-assailable. You are certainly within your rights to ask questions and seek answers. However, to pretend that one man’s life’s work is a pile of garbage because it does not neatly support your thinking is just unfair. Ask yourself - would you even be studying Witsen and Van Yk, in this manner, if Hoving hadn’t written his book?
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