Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Dave, if you can cut your planks widths to 0.10 inch without issue it would be well worth doing. I don't have the means to do so, I'd have to go with a wider plank out of necessity. -
Rob, I understand. I think you or someone who glues ratline to shroud line successfully needs to look over my shoulder and see why I'm not able to manage this seemingly simple process. I know this, if I can't get it done on a test board, in an optimal working position, I'm not going to trust using the method on the mizzen where my angle of attack makes my hands shake more so than when working at the test board. I've got nothing against the method, for you and those who can use it without issue, I applaud you.
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Dave, in old photos of ship decks you can't/don't see tree nails. I think they're cool but not realistic. At 1:64 one foot = 0.1875 inches. That would make the deck length 10.4331 inches or 55.6 feet at scale. 30' = 5.625", 28' = 5.25", 26' = 4.875", 24' = 4.5", 22' = 4.125", and 20' = 3.75". Adjust plank lengths as required for the plank ends to fall center of the beams which are placed every fourth frame. The plank end pattern should fall on a different beam at least every third plank to spread the load. The problem comes when making the plank widths to scale, 6" = .09375". This is where authenticity and reality/practicality meet. Even making the planks 12" to scale (which they would never be that wide due to cupping) would only make them 0.1875".
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Docker, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing the l'Ambitieux come to life in your build log.
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Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
Keith Black replied to KORTES's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Kortes, my heart goes out to you and your countrymen. I pray this madness ceases immediately, may God protect you and yours. -
Glen, I only need about two feet to accomplish what I need to do plus another foot or two for spares. If I bought ten feet I could send you whatever you needed up to six feet or only one foot if you wanted to play around with the stuff. This looks so small I bet I could I stick a foot or two in an envelope and mail it to you. Think about it and If I decide to make the plunge I'll let you know and if your interested you can PM me your address. If someone else has an interest speak up.
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While we're on the topic of products, I came across this surgical tubing today, 0.025" OD x 0.012 " ID. That's some super small tubing. It's clear silicone, no colors and it's expensive, 10 feet for $48.00 plus shipping. But I keep thinking there's gotta be some cool uses for this. Glen, can you use this somehow in your SIBs? I'm seriously thinking using it for Zip Seizing. https://amblersurgical.com/9010e-replacement-silicone-tubing-10-0-012-id-x-0-025-od-x-0-007-wall?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp6mm8pug9gIVKvHjBx0w-ArFEAQYASABEgJpMvD_BwE
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Tom, is this paint or glue? Do you have a link? I looked up Liquitex and didn't see a bottle exactly like the one you posted.
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Brian, it's a straight needle and no tying. Push through all the shroud lines leaving at least half an inch overage on the edge shroud lines. Obviously you have to secure the ends, I did so with a toothpick end dipped in CA and touched to the edge shroud lines and the ratline. One edge shroud line needs to be glued and when dry the ratlines on the other edge need to be pulled tight to take out the slack and then glued in place. When both edges are dry snip the ratline tails. This method is pretty fast. Very little glue is required and only applied when ready to do so. If a ratline looks off, pull it out do over. This method is pretty forgiving. When I do my next testing I may try tying a overhand knot and see how that looks. https://www.joann.com/beading-hand-needles-size-15-4-pkg/8235681.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpdCMgKWh9gIVwQxlCh0ARQEoEAQYASABEgL2zvD_BwE
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Trond, I'm pretty sure you can get fiberglass screen in different weave sizes.
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Lynn, good fix. Something breaking is inevitable, it's the nature of the beast. You took this one in stride. you're making great progress.
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Mark, that made me smile, I'm glad you found your mojo. Looks good.
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- vanguard models
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Trond, it looks great but have you thought about trying to use fiberglass window screen? https://www.amazon.com/DocaScreen-Standard-Window-Screen-Roll/dp/B079YY5SJZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=Window+Screen+Replacement&qid=1645995374&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQjVUMjgyOTJQTDVLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjc4MjcwMVkzSjk3NEVNNzdDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NTE3NzAzSDBLTDcxVjhIMVZPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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Tom, suffice to say, me and the gluing method didn't work out. Surprise surprise, the weaving (thank you Tom for providing the word I was looking for in my earlier post) method shows great promise. I used a number 12 beading needle to pierce the simulated shroud line. The thread I'm using for the ratlines is 0.009 inches and the shroud line thread is 0 .015 inches. Both are Gutermann 100% polyester. I'm going to order some number 15 beading needles, 0.010 inch diameter, as the 12 is a bit large at 0.0165 inch diameter. Other than a slight tug I didn't have any problem pulling the needle and ratline thread through the test shroud line thread. I used 0.015 inch spacing for the weaving method and now that I've had a chance to mess about a bit I think 0.15 inch is too large a space. While waiting for the size 15 needles to arrive I'm going to remove and add new shroud lines to the test board and continue practicing the weaving method using 0.10 inch spacing. Thank you to everyone for the likes and support.
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Absolutely, Gary, that's the driving force. I messed around a bit last night on the test board and I tried the gluing method. One, it's not positive enough in that a should and ratline don't necessarily what to be joined via the glue and if it does join and it's off, it's a mess. Gluing has been eliminated as an option. My dear wife just got back from a trip to Joann Fabric where she picked me up some beading needles sizes 10 and 12. I'm going to try to pass a beading needle through the shroud line with the ratline in tow. If this doesn't work, I have my doubts that it will due to the size of the shroud line, then it's clove hitches and devil take the hindquarter. Thank you to everyone for your support, it warms the cockles of an old man's heart.
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John, welcome to MSW. I hope your first foray into a wooden model will be successful.
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Brian, thank you for the thought but it's too big. No way could I get it into position. I've got my test board set up and have done a few lines. Not happy with things thus far. I've got several ideas to try before I have to decide on a set course of action. Thank you again.
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We certainly are an easily amused beast. If only they had know how expensive 'easily amused' would become, toddlers would be in short supply.
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Roger, I couldn't agree with you more. Thank you for saying something. Valeriy, I hope and pray for you, your family, and all Ukrainians during this time of madness. My heart goes out to you and everyone in that part of the world.
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I'm usually late getting to a build. Fortunately, Gary, I managed to stumble onto your new project before the actual work starts. I look forward to seeing the Rangeley take shape and watch as you apply your personal touch.
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Tom, I knew better than to think you'd quit but it is good to see an update. Buddy, slow seems to run in the family.
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Thank you to all for the helpful comments and support and thank you to all for the likes. I made some spacing cards to see which one looked the most correct while at the same time being achievable. This is .20 inch spacing for a total of 14 lines. In comparison to the surrounding elements this spacing is too large, to scale the spacing is 24 inches. This is .15 inch spacing for a totall of 18 lines. This looks like the spacing I normally see on models even though at scale the spacing is 18 inches. This is .10 spacing for a total of 27 lines. To scale this is 12 inches and is the most correct of the three. This is what one would one expect to see in real life. While the third photo is the most correct I think it's also might possibly the hardest to produce a decent looking representation. Not because of the additional 9 lines over the number two photo but because of the room for spacing error. With that tight of spacing any spacing deviation is going to stick out like a sore thumb. I've never tied ratlines. If I had done several models I wouldn't be as worried as I am. My shroud lines are sacred cows. I can not screw these up! If I had to redo on line I think I'd have to redone all of them, both sides. I like the idea of gluing the ratlines but what if I mess up in placing a line? Then what, how would I correct it? With knots, if it isn't right you undo and carry on. Having said the previous, I need some ratline practice before going 'all in' on my first attempt. I'm going to make a practice board of shroud lines and tie and glue ratlines till I feel comfortable. Only then will I move on to adding ratlines to the mizzen mast. Hopefully I'll be back sooner than later. Again, thank you to everyone for following along and being part of my journey.
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Simon, that looks great. I wish I was at that point in my rigging.
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