Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Victor, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing a build log with your name on it. For you, rigging should come pretty easy with your knot tying abilities.
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Wonderful job, Kevin. My understanding is white paint was used as much as possible inside the gunnels and tops to help a sailor's vision at night. The white areas of the America Vespucci's mast are the same as on the Tennessee.- 268 replies
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- panart
- amerigo vespucci
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Iraymo, the repaired rib looks good. You can see it with camera magnification but I bet you have to look hard to see it when viewed normally.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- First Build
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kit review ENDURANCE by OcCre - 1/70 scale
Keith Black replied to ccoyle's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
This does look like a neat kit. If I wasn't tied up with my current project plus the other kits I have in waiting, I'd be a buyer. Buying kits and building them are two different hobbies. -
LOL, if I had a nickel every time that same thing has happened to me......... Beautiful work, Will, she's looking sharp!
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Iraymo, you're not going to paint a Mona Lisa the first time you pick up a paint brush. This is your first build, it's a learning experience and I think you've done a wonderful job considering it is your first build. The next one will be better and the one after that will be better yet. I really do think it looks good. One thing, when gluing, if your using yellow glue, use a water moistened Q-Tip to wick away excess glue. If your using CA (super glue) use a dry Q-Tip. This will save you time and help in the overall appearance of your model. Regarding the broken rib, try fixing it by carving a piece to fit the break. It may not work but it's good practice. You have to try, just like you did the repair on the plank and that came out swell. You'll get there, patience is definitely a virtue when it comes to modeling.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- First Build
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Jeff, first off, thank you of your service. Second, welcome to MSW. I hope you'll start a build and let us follow along.
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Beautiful hull. Most of the time paint hides the sins of the builder, it your case, Siggi, the paint is hiding the craftsmanship of the of the builder. But that painted hull is pleasing to the eye and historically correct.
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Trond, it appears they have to be sanded to shape. It's either sand to shape or make your own pieces.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
Keith Black replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, the photo in #648 is really neat. Lovely work.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Only if they're modeled sinking.
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Eberhard, I tried that and it was impossible for me to do it that way. I'd get two eyes in the holes and in placing the third one the first one would pop out. I tried it enough times to know that for me, it didn't work but I appreciate the suggestion very much.
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Sometimes one side is better than the other but the way I see most ships shown is bow on the right side as if the ship were sailing left to right. Is this because we read left to right? Are models predominantly shown with the bow on the left built in Middle Eastern countries, reading right to left?
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Very nice, Rob.
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Trond, that really looks good, much better!
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Rob, Brian, Pat, and Iraymo, thank you for your supportive comments and thank you to all for stopping by and the likes. Installing the jackstays on the smaller spars is so tedious I can only sit for a short time at the work table and I have to really force myself back to the table to work. There are 5 to 7 jackstay eyebolts (eye pins) per jackstay, they measure .05 x .175 inches. All of the eyebolts have to be placed in their respective holes and then the jackstay (22 GA wire) is threaded through each eye from tip to the inside eye. The happiness is, the eyebolts can't be glued until the wire is threaded through because the glue (CA) clogs the eyes. The wire has to be straight as an arrow and hopefully the eyes haven't deformed durning the trimming and placement and that they don't rise out of their holes durning the threading process. To help some I've drilled slightly undersized holes (.013) so the eye pins stick into the spar but the eye pins are photo etched and they deform easily. I am happy dance excited when I can apply CA to the base of each eye completing the process. I've completed the jackstay process for two of the six spars, four to go but who's counting.
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That's a becket, when only one block is used a becket is not required. When two blocks are used in conjunction with one another a becket is required on one block to join the two blocks. Shown is a double block, the nomenclature is the same for a single block.
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I use wire to strop blocks, for me it's a lot easier. I use black annealed wire (or you can also use brass wire) below is a photo of the 24 GA wire I use, they also make it in 28 GA which I think is too small for your build.
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You have to make the hook or you can buy hooks and then they need to be stropped to the block.
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Rob, here is a drawing that maybe easier to understand than the drawing in #108.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
Keith Black replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, beautiful. Nice to see you post.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Rob, the blocks are not to scale, smaller blocks are required. Pull is through the hole/sheave, the exact opposite of what you've done. Also, the hole/sheave, should where the line is running on top of the block/sheave and not at the bottom. Study the drawing in post #108.
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Rob, there are no blocks in the cannon tackle on the instruction sheet, which is incorrect. The drawing in post #108 shows blocks and tackle and your cannon should be modeled accordingly. It's more work (and more expense if the blocks didn't come with the kit) but it's more accurate. Your cannon and carriages turned out great.
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