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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Brian, a thought. If you painted the interior of the ship's boat white (or light color) the darker oars would stand out. In the photo I just posted, the interior appears to be white.
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Lynn, go to the home page and in the search box enter 'marking the waterline'. There are several builds where folks show how they marked the waterline. Nice to see you making good progress. And you're right, I don't have a clue how I found the time to hold down a full time job. To recruit new employees Walmart is offering a $5,000.00 sign up bonus. I thought about it for a split second but I figured the 'nap' clause I'd have to negotiate in my contract wouldn't be worth the trouble.
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Model builder since I was 5 .
Keith Black replied to Barry Rawson's topic in New member Introductions
Barry, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your work. -
It's always fun when we get the Keith, Keith, and Keith conversations going. It's like the 'who's on first' bit.
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Here's a link to Keith's employer, looks like a good outfit. https://www.airtindi.com
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Keith, I wish we could sit down together sometime and swap bush plane stories. Most of my experience was in a Super Cub on tundra tires in summer and skies in the winter, a plane my buddy owned and piloted. I know what's involved, please fly safe. Nice ride, very nice. Do you have to fuel out of 55 gal drums or can you get into a for real fuel service?
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Dave, this is a decorative model and unfortunately it has no monetary value particularly in its current state. Are there any young kids in your neighborhood that you could give it to? As a toy, if it were to put a smile on a kids face it becomes priceless. And who knows, maybe it sparks a interest in model ship building in some young boy or girl.
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Gary, I almost reacted with a 'sad' emoji because with the lights going in, it means this is just about the last chapter of this build. Each completed project is absolutely amazing but the journey with you creating a build is so very rewarding. This one isn't even finished and I'm already on the edge of my seat in anticipation of your next project. Any hints?
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Brian, really nice work on the oars. They are a minor item, not taking them lightly is admirable. As they lay in the ship's boat, the oar shown at the bottom is the more stealthier. I don't know how much white oars would show up at night if a crew was trying to depart or land without notice?
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Pierre, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your Bonhomme Richard.
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Keith, I hope everything is good with you and yours, I'm looking forward to seeing a update.
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Pat, thank you for your support and again for all your helpful links. Mark, thank you and I agree. Brain, thank you for tagging along and your continued support. MCB, thank you! Glen, thank you for stopping by and thank you for the complement. You make me laugh Mr. Keith, there aren't enough diplomas in the world to remove my 'Scarecrow' stain. Gary, that from one of my heroes means the world to me. Rob, thank you so much. I have no idea how many times I've gone to and through your Great Republic build rigging phase for insight and inspiration. A great big thank you to all for the likes and thank you to all for dropping by. After months of inactivity and setbacks, I'm finally making progress! Initially, stropping a single block was taking me almost 10 minutes, I'm down to two minutes at most with one minute being average. In time one develops techniques, fingers learn their respective rote, and a rhythm ensues. Therein lies the pleasure of the task for without that pleasure stropping some 400 to 450 blocks would become a burden destined for failure. I'm far for from completion but I'm out of the gate at a good clip. I'm currently working on the foremast and respective yards. The foreyard takes 18 blocks, the topsail yard, 14 and the topgallant yard, 7. I've attached some blocks to the foremast but many remain needing to be attached. The topsail yard needs to be painted, foot rope strung, and blocks glued in place and all the foreyards need to be sealed. At this scale, compromise is a necessity. I'm not using eyes and hooks, once the wire is wrapped round the block I twist the wire at the end and snip to length required and glue in the block's location. The reasons I'm not using hooks and eyes are, scale, my clumsy left hand, and tight working quarters. If I used hooks and eyes and during the final rigging stage a hook stretched or came unhooked, it wouldn't take but about fives times of that nonsense before I lost it. So to negate that outcome I'm just gluing the little buggers in place. I wish I had Eberhard's skills but alas....... I'm pleased with the scale of the blocks in relationship with the surrounding components and the coloration of the blocks. In my next post I'll go over the way I'm stropping blocks and how they're installed in detail with 8 x 10 black and white glossy photographs. I would have done so now but my camera needed to be feed right after the attached photos were taken. Thank you again to each and everyone of you!
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Keith, the reason for the question........... as the real Germania is up for grabs for a little over five mil, I thought, what would your 36th scale be worth in comparison. 5,000,000 divided by the 36 scale = 138,888.00 which sounds like a ton of money for a model but considering the quality and detail accuracy, is it? 138,888.00 divided by say 3,000 hours is 46.29 per hour and divided by 4,000 hours = 34.72 per hour. Is your work worth 34.00 to 46.00 per hour? I would think that's pretty close to going rate for a high end machinist in todays world and Mr Google agrees. Could you get 138,888.00? Is it worth that much? More's been paid for a heck of a lot less, Jackson Pollock comes to mind.
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Keith, how many hours including research (roughly) do you think you have into the Germania thus far? 2,000??
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Fat chance of that happening, you have a captive audience. Keith, lovely work as always.
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Eric, good tip but how do you keep the cap rails the same height from stem to stern when sanding the cap rails individually? Maybe another way would be to span the two cap rails with a smooth 10 inch flat file and work back and forth while gently exerting force in the middle of the file. This way you don't have to worry about pitch and the two cap rails are the same. Of course this method would require the hull to be rock steady.
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