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Everything posted by Keith Black
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David, I agree that one shouldn't use acetone carelessly. I guess I've used it so much over the years from metal prep to fiberglass work that I don't even think twice about using it, but what works for me and my old lungs is my choice. David is 100% correct, only use acetone when one has completely familiarized themselves with all the safety precautions associated with its use.
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Lynn, you also need a good knife set. By good I don't mean the most expensive set. Micro Mark wants a lot for their set, Harbor Freight is cheaper but Micro Mark is probably better quality. With a chisel blade (see image) you can push down and cut through stock provided it's not too thick. It's much quicker than slicing or sawing. https://www.micromark.com/Excel-Super-Deluxe-Knife-Set https://www.harborfreight.com/56-piece-precision-knife-set-36410.html
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Lynn, you have to know what the hole size is that you need to drill, you need a caliper. You measure the brass wire or rod and then select the correct drill by measuring the drill shaft, not the twist. I over drill the hole a small amount so I don't have to force the wire/rod through the hole. At this time you don't need an expensive caliper. Micro Mark wants 35.00 for theirs, the below is from Harbor Freight for 20.00 but I think you can buy one at a auto parts store or hobby shop if you have one in your area. Just make sure it measures both in inches and MM. I agree with Steve regarding making a new part, it's not that difficult and your skill level is up to the task. It's just a pain in the backside. At this stage in your modeling career I'm not sure jumping through hoops to make a rivet is justified. Were I you, I'd make my replacement part, drill the correct size hole, run the brass wire through, glue using CA glue, and clip leaving extra on both sides. By extra I mean .05 inches, then take a file and dress the wire ends flat. At the scale you're working at it's going to look a whole lot like a rivet. I suggest using CA glue because a piece when glued with CA can be removed by soaking a bit with acetone. I think a piece adhered with epoxy is much harder to remove. David may have further insight regarding breaking an epoxy bond? https://www.micromark.com/Fractional-Digital-Caliper https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
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Lynn, from the same supplier is a pin vice and micro drills. I've bought both items and I'm extremely pleased with both, particularly the drills. As you progress these are going to become necessary items for your toolbox. The only thing I see wrong with pin insertion pliers is when trying to push into delicate/small stock. For me, it's much safer drilling a hole and then inserting and glueing (I use super glue. A lot of folks hate the stuff but I couldn't do without it) the eye pins/ringbolts or whatever hardware you're adding. When using CA (super glue) be sure to have Q-Tips handy to wick away any excess glue. For me, PVA glue doesn't seem to hold as well as CA in metal to wood applications. https://www.micromark.com/Double-End-Pin-Vise https://www.micromark.com/20-piece-Drill-Bit-Set-with-Plastic-Index-61-80
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Lynn, you did a very nice job of painting. The pram is looking sweet.
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David, the last pic in post #393 captures the essence of the delicateness of your wonderful model. The warmth of the illuminated hull planks, by design or default, emphasizes how very special this miniature watercraft is.
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Bitao, congratulations on the completion of your stunning Young America build. Thank you for giving us the opportunity to tag along on the journey with you. I look forward to your next build, enjoy your down time......Keith
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Bravo, Lynn. It works just like you had it planned.
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New Member from Western Washington State
Keith Black replied to Michael Jones's topic in New member Introductions
Michael, welcome to MSW. I look forward to you starting a build log at some point in the future. -
Tony, research can be very enjoyable except when you desperately need an answer and all your research efforts come up dry. Then it becomes very frustrating and the harder you search the more frustrating it becomes. At some point one has to go with best guess and let the devil take the hindmost.
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Gary, that so much for your continued support. Nothing to do with modeling but today went from promise to defeat. Rob, I could use a Bro hug right about now. Thank you for your continued support. Roger, what an apt description, "jackass" rigging. The transition period put navies between wanting ships to be able to function with sails and yet not be dependent upon them. The transitional ships were primarily about learning to sail with steam, sails were a "we know this works" and "just in case". I purchased the Kearsarge build log in 2019. At the time I was looking for information unrelated to rigging. I have since reread the build log and it is equally uninformative about rigging as it was about whatever I was searching for at the time. I do have copies of Revell's rigging plans for both the Kearsarge and the Alabama along with many other ships. Roger, thank you for your continued support. Eberhard, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to post #326. I agree regarding Peterson's book as it relates to the Tennessee. You have to understand, I know very little about rigging, Peterson's book gives me a history base of how rigging was done at that time. Through searching countless build logs, rigging plans, articles, and excerpts from Bushell and Underhill (I really should acquire copies of both their works) I'm trying to envision the evolution of rigging from Peterson to steam and how it may apply to the Tennessee. There's a book wanting to be written regarding the rigging variations of that transitional period. Thank you to all for the likes and for stopping by.
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David, what is the thickness at the blade end?
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Nice progress, Rob. GS's hull shape appears very business like, it's all about cargo tonnage.
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Lynn, what a great post! I could see your wheels turning figuring out how to solve the problem. That's growth, I'm very proud of your progress and the little pram is looking great. I agree with druxey regarding a large contour gauge but Micro Mark carries a six inch model that may or may not be useful? It's not that expensive In the great schema of things, see the below link. https://www.micromark.com/6-Contour-Gauge
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Rob, it's exciting to see GS's hull finally taking shape. I'm eager to see her after the first sanding.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
Keith Black replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, I'm not surprised at all! It's a whole different kettle of fish working from a know set of rigging plans versus researching to create a set of rigging plans. Old photographs only go so far, old journals and warrants only go so far, it's not exactly discovering the wheel, more like reinventing it. Being able to adapt know plans to what one thinks the rigging plan would have been at that point in Victoria's history is a major milestone. Your reaching that point gives me hope.- 993 replies
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Alan, I've often thought that an auction of pieces donated to the NRG would be a great way to raise funds. Donating a model would be asking a lot but it could be smaller pieces like lanterns, stoves, or other small bits made by the great MSW/NRG artisans. Edit The above statement was in no way meant to suggest that David donate one of his models. I apologize for any misunderstanding my statement may have caused.
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