Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Thank you, Keith and thank you to all for the likes. The Pilot Ladder is done, it actually went better than what I thought it would. The steps are .3 x .1 and the holes for the thread are .025 The layout board used to set steps. I'll erase the lines and use again when it comes time to make the Jacob's Ladders. I've staged the ladder trying to show movement as if the Tennessee were underway. Tidied up the worktable as it's time to move aloft, making the yards is next. It seems like it's taken forever to get to this point. The next long term goal is the standing rigging with all the separate projects twixt here and there.
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Tom. looks great!
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Thank you, Keith and Pat for the comments and thank you to all for the likes. I reworked the stern ports and covers, they look better than they did but...... The closeup photo really shows the weakness of my efforts. Had I known (I should have known) how difficult carving the end grain was going to be, I think I would have left well enough alone and not tried to replicate them.
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Gary, thank you and thank you to all for the likes. I studied this photo for two years trying to make sense of what I was seeing and not seeing. It finally came time to try and replicate my interpretations. Some is "best guess" some is research, some is looking over the shoulders of my fellow MSW members, and some is from communication with Pat (BANYAN). Thank you, Pat. I wish there was an easier way to do chain work other than the "one link at a time" method I have to employ. Get it close, wire up the chain to it's end point, check droop and if not correct, cut wire and remove a link, and continue till the droop on both sides match. I attached the preventer chains and the emergency steering chains to the rudder first, permanently attached the rudder and then worked the chains to their end points. The front rudder (emergency steering) chains to the vertical capstan chain (there is a stop disk on the end to keep the rudder from being drawn to far to one side) and the rear rudder (preventer) chains to the hull. There is a rope ladder that hangs from starboard side stern, it's .25 inches wide and some three inches long. This is the final stern item, I've not much faith in my ability to make it, we'll see.
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Every son should have something of his father's work, to touch, to hold, to cherish, and to remember. I'll follow along with you on your journey, the very best to you........KB
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Allan, if that's not a candidate for "What Gets Your Goat" I don't know what is.
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Siggi Nice detail work making the port lids follow the hull profile, the Tiger is turning into a real beauty. The work crew must have had the day off?
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Chris, I'm sorry but I laughed like #ell because it sounds exactly like some of my learning experiences. Has Acetone become your best friend?
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I just love it when a plan comes together Keith, great work as usual. Is it possible to see a full length pic of the Germania as she currently sits, please?
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
Keith Black replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, thank you for taking the time to describe in detail source and information regarding the Rigging Warrant. Your post is the essence of MSW, the unselfish willingness to share information to the betterment of all who have interest in the hobby of model ship building. Your examples of both a willingness to share and your beautiful workmanship is inspiration to us all, myself foremost. Again, thank you.............KB- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Thank you, Mark and thank you to all for the likes. As this is a temporary mounting board, I think the latest results are acceptable. I'll poly the surface tonight and call it good.
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Thank you, Keith but the blue is stabbing me in the eyes. I'm about to head upstairs to get the holes drilled and play around with a lighter blue and then white. I'm going to see if I can create a wake effect. As I said, I can't screw this up as this isn't the final board so it makes for a good practice piece.
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Rachel, Keith, and Pat, thank you for the nice comments and thank you to all for the likes. As I've needed to work on a particular section of the model, I've merely pushed or pulled the model across the worktable to the required position. During this time I've left the rudder off to keep from breaking it. With the rudder work at hand, when finished the rudder will no longer be removable. I need to mount the model to a board where I can push and pull the board and not the model. I had a 1 x 8 out in the garage, I cut a 41 inch piece from it and stained it blue. I made the stain by mixing Prussian Blue artist oil paint and paint thinner. The 1 x 8 isn't wide enough, it needs to be a 1 x 10 but this is a good test for the final mounting board and paint/stain scheme. I'm not a hundred percent sold on the blue, I'm not sure white wouldn't be a better choice but this will work for now.
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A pair of silk stocking, a carton of cigarettes, and a good bottle of Scotch should get a ole bloke from Sussex across the border.
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Back to the original subject for a moment, lighting conductors. Is this something that should be incorporated in builds after 1800?
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Allan, It's too hot there for Keith. Keith would adapt much more easily to the climate here in Michigan.
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Michael. no perhaps to it, please start a build log.
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Bruce, thank you for posting. I thought I was reading a foreign language till I figured out that some words with a "s" were replaced with an "f". Anyone know why that was done? Fhortage of "s" type?
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Mark, thank you the compliment and Gary, thank you for the like. Mark, no but after a couple of hours I do have to stop and give em a rest. I didn't mention the following in the skylight entry. I try to make white glass look opaque. I'm sure I'm not the only one to have figured this out but for those that haven't...... after painting what is supposed to represent white glass let the paint dry, then vigorously rub the piece between thumb and forefinger until almost all the paint is removed. Give it a second watery coat of paint and repeat the rubbing process. After several minutes of rubbing what's left is a opaque white sheen. To my eye it looks a lot more realistic than a natural white painted surface. Continuing work on the stern. Carved out the stern ports. Kinda like carving a jack o'lantern except pumpkins don't have end grain. This is my little step stool from when I was a small boy of two and a half years. Back then I used it to reach the sink where I could brush my teeth and comb my hair. Well, at least I still have the step stool. Now, seventy plus years later I'm still using it but this time to sit low to the model to carve out the ports. Port covers added. Under normal light shadow lines help define the ports. Next I'll be adding the rudder preventer chains and the alternate steering chains.
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Guy I work in a upstairs bedroom so a real workbench was out of the question when I started modeling. I went with a 30 x 60 inch folding table. There are several styles to chose from, mine looks something like the one pictured. They're relatively inexpensive, sturdy, and can be easily taken down and stored away if need be. The one pictured is off Amazon, hope this provides you with a viable option, best to you.........Keith
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Gary and Pat, thank you and thank you to all for the likes. Stern castle deck finalized
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