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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Keith Black
    Glen, waxed thread gathers dust and is a bear to clean once dust collects on it. Also, cotton thread's life expectancy is minimal, instead, I suggest you use polyester thread. Gutermann makes a great polyester thread, Gutermann, Mara 30 and Mara 11 are good standing rigging sizes. Gutermann Sew All is finer (50) and comes in many different colors and works well for running rigging.
  2. Keith Black
    Frank, these can be bought from Cornwall Model Boats, you'll need to figure out what size you need. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=stanchions&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!
  3. Keith Black
    What great information, Roger. Thank you for taking the time to explain the history/use of steam in Lake ships..........jet condenser?
  4. Keith Black
    I have the same issue, I am going to thread the lower and top deadeyes together off ship leaving the thread loose where I can adjust the distance between the two deadeyes once the deadeye chain has been attached to the hull.
  5. Keith Black
    Man that's small and fiddly, hat's off, Mark.
  6. Keith Black
    And once finished she's going to look like a million bucks, Lynn. Each build gets us a step closer to Nirvana or so it says here on page 43 of the Ship Modelers Guide to the Universe.
  7. Keith Black
    Lynn, very few fittings on a ship/boat are brass due to strength requirements. What is brass and what is iron requires a bit of research, looking at other build logs of the same model is the easiest though in time, experience will fill in the blanks. Nails represent bolts and most all bolts are black, there are some brass bolts but they are the exception. There are a lot of brass screws but they would have a slotted head. Some hinges are brass and some are iron. Mast and yard bands are iron as is all chain. Some fancy fairleads are brass but most are iron. Ringbolts, eyes, and hooks are iron. Stanchions and rails and the ships bell are for the most part brass and some parts of a ships wheel can be brass. As I said, learning to blacken brass is the next rung up, learning what to blacken may take two rungs. Birchwood Casey Brass Black is by far and away the best product IMHO. Also, rubber gloves should be used when blackening. A caveat to this is.........you don't ever have to blacken brass if you don't what to, it's your provocative, you are the builder! Are you building a model for the sake of building a model or are you trying to replicate a ship/boat as it was in real life? There may be a book on ship's fittings and the material used to make them but I'm unfamiliar with one if there is. If so, someone shout out, TY.
  8. Keith Black
    Will, welcome back, good to see you back at the workbench. Fantastic work you're doing, I'm super impressed!
  9. Keith Black
    Lynn, looks very good. Before you start your next project you need to familiarize yourself with brass blackening. There are several threads on the subject and can be found via the search option. It's the next step up the ladder when making brass bits.
  10. Keith Black
    Gary, this is so much fun watching this diorama come to life as you add each layer of realism, your mastery of detail is brilliant.
  11. Keith Black
    Lynn, another tool to think about adding to your tool collection is a pair of hemostats, they're relatively inexpensive. They come as seen in the image with straight tips and also come with curved tips. I have straight tips and have never had the need for curved tips. Hemostats allow you to hold onto small pieces with a great deal of force. They will leave tool marks on your work so one needs to use with caution. If I'm adding a small piece to a bit of wire, I cut the wire long, hold the wire at the end with the hemostats, add the small bit that's being attached at the none clamped end, and bond with CA or solder. Once the bond is complete you can cut the wire to the desired length leaving no tool marks on your work. This same method of controlling small pieces can be applied when working with small wood pieces. Have a longer piece than necessary, add the small piece at the end and cut to length. You probably won't be able to use hemostats on small bits of wood as most times they will crush the wood but you can experiment, that's what scrape pieces are for.
  12. Keith Black
    Lynn, you're doing very well. Don't be so hard on yourself. Small parts and steady hands is a challenge, in time you'll figure out how to manage working with small parts. Build logs are always a "go to" when running into difficulties. Don't be goofy, buy the nails. I smile each time I get a notification that you've posted a new update, keep up the good work......Keith
  13. Keith Black
    That is such a neat model, MCB
  14. Keith Black
    Rob, the hull is looking great! Question, how did you make the scroll work stand proud?
  15. Keith Black
    What a beauty!
  16. Keith Black
    She turned out a beauty, no longer the pitiful orphaned child she once was.
  17. Keith Black
    Lynn, IMHO what Amazon what's is too much money. The tweezers maybe OK but the third hand stinks. There's a eBay link for a ceramic board and a much better third hand from Micro Mark and also a tweezer with stand. https://www.micromark.com/Triple-Grip-Third-Hand https://www.micromark.com/SOLDERING-TWEEZER-STAND https://www.ebay.com/itm/183401218553?hash=item2ab39081f9:g:IFUAAOSwl0xegXKl
  18. Keith Black
    Rob/Keith, I've been thinking on how to make the plank seams noticeable. If one had a to scale caulking iron, one could drive the tool and work it along between the planks. It would be incredibly tedious but it might work. The tool could be a Xacto chisel blade broke off square with the end filled flat.
  19. Keith Black
    Bizarro
  20. Keith Black
    Lynn, for starters the link gives a price of 39.97 not 21.00? I don't think a cookie sheet nor plate is going to work? I think a ceramic tile is going to work better as it's going to transfer less heat to the surface it's setting on. Below is a video link on how to anneal.
  21. Keith Black
    Keith, in real life I think paint was used extensively particularly inside the gunnels. I'm sure white paint was used inside the gunnels to help illuminate the working areas at night as much as possible. A candle or whale oil lantern in rough weather is not going to produce enough light to be effective IMHO. But that's the modeler's lament, show the beauty of the wood and its tight and tidy construction or make the model as it actually was, slathered in paint. And I'm not sure how neatly the crew could have painted when done on a rolling deck. Contemporary paintings show ships with sharp defined paint lines but most all are at distance, standing distance may have looked much different unless the crew had the time when tied up at dockside.
  22. Keith Black
    Keith, once a hull is planked, filled, and sanded it's going to look seamless I don't care what type of paint used or how it's applied. I think the only way to see plank seams once the final sanding has been done is to remove the filler between the planks. How one would do that and with what tool where everything looked neat and tidy is beyond me?
  23. Keith Black
    Rob, I'm afraid it would look exactly like thinned acrylic paint. You should test a piece of scrap to see what you think.
  24. Keith Black
    Lynn, that looks much better. You need a wire cutter that can cut as close as you want including the ability to cut flush. Below is cutter from Amazon that looks a lot like the cutters I have. You might want to search local first for this type of cutter. https://www.amazon.com/MTHKLO-Precision-Cutting-Electronics-Aluminum/dp/B083HCWKD9/ref=asc_df_B083HCWKD9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416652462199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17275181636199285717&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017256&hvtargid=pla-901408326923&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=97957278230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416652462199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17275181636199285717&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017256&hvtargid=pla-901408326923
  25. Keith Black
    Rob, the ships boats look good. As far as the sanding goes, try a finer paper, 600 grit or steel wool #0000.

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