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Everything posted by Keith Black
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As close as I can figure......According to Mr Google, Antarctic penguins are 24 to 30 inches in height. A foot at 1:500 scale is .024 inches, correct? That would make 30 inches = to .060 inches. Having worked at 1:120 for so long I can easily visualize tenths and hundredths. Better not use course ground pepper and sea salt. Glen, the ice pack turned out great, it looks very convincing. Is the big push in short order?
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Glen, just think of the awesome amount of detail you could get in .06 inches ............Can you imagine trying to carve anything that small? I'd try to replicate something that small with a tiny drop of paint and be proud as punch if the paint drop didn't spread beyond .06 inches.
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Capn, welcome to MSW. The Victory is gorgeous and the weathering on the sub is very nice. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
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rbcwarbucks, welome to MSW. Is there a time period that you favor more than others?
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Grant, I've got faith in Glen. I bet he's able to whip out penguins to the rate of about one an hour. I mean, how hard can it be?
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Mark, both are positive approaches, I'm hoping your eye doctor visit Monday produces a acceptable solution.
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I tried making it easy with a Polar bear but oh no, you had to go get all zoologically correct so now it's penguins, eh? Because penguins are so much smaller, a pair?
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Dave, I think it looks okay. It doesn't look any different than other Lady Nelson builds.
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Lars, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Mark, sorry to hear this. I hope you get it resolved in short order.
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Chris, do you think a vac pen would be helpful in card modeling? There are several models out there, below are a couple of links as examples. https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Suction-Chip-Pick-Up-12000pa/dp/B07Q12CZWR https://www.virtual-ii.com/product-category/pen-vac-vacula-3-no-hoses-or-batteries/pro-series-pen-vac-vacuum-pen/
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The object you want to pick up has to have a flat surface. I see it being helpful for installing windows but where I see it possibly being most helpful is in card modeling. I'm going to ask Chris if he thinks it might be of help.
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Peter, the best way to replicate a hull surface would be to paint the hull with a color you think best portrays the combinations mentioned in there below paragraph, IMHO. Paragraph from the below link on page 212....... "In the 18th century, after lead, with which" it apparently alternated, had been pro- nounced a failure, wood sheathing was again in general use (12, 49). It was sometimes filed with iron or copper nails having large heads, put in so closely that the heads were touching and formed a kind of metallc sheathing (38, 69). This wooden sheathing also was often painted with various mix- tures of tar and grease; with sulfur, oil, "and other ingredients"; or with pitch, tar, and brimstone" https://darchive.mblwhoilibrary.org/bitstream/handle/1912/191/chapter 11.pdf?sequence=20
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Thanks, Glen. Hey, when I saw those tweezers in the bottle a light went on. In the QC dept. where I last worked, we used vacuum pens to pick up and inspect IC's/electronic components. I don't have a clue if this would be of help or made to work for doing SIB's? https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Suction-Chip-Pick-Up-12000pa/dp/B07Q12CZWR
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How will you get the ice glued down once placed? Will you insert Aurora before gluing down the ice? Sorry for the questions, Glen.
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Glen, it looks like you're just about ready for the big push. I think you're right about the test ice pieces being too big. Along with broken pieces of pack ice there would be slush ice but I'll be hanged if I can figure out how to replicate slush ice on the resin base in the bottle. I don't think trying to replicate slush ice with paint would work? Maybe sheetrock dust but how would/could one secure it to the resin and how would you remove excess from the bottle's sides? Outside the bottle, no problemo but inside a bottle..........I take my hat off to you and others who do SIB's.
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Dave, the only course I see is to use a fret saw. At least you have a hole to put the blade through.
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Somehow the garish white paint applied on the ship's boats and furled sails in an earlier cosmetic restoration needs to be either removed or painted over, IMHO. The two furled sails yards center of the below photo appear to be untouched from original. The furled sails that have not been painted white but have been accentuated with black lines (first yard above two at center) also does not appear to be original. Mike, my hope for your sake is that the paint used was/is acrylic. There are many views on replacing broken pieces, example the missing ear on the original top center yard, left side. Some folks only want to see original, no replacement pieces. Others want to see replacement pieces made but any replacement pieces are to be left unpainted so as not to be confused as original. Then there are folks like myself who say, fix it! Fix any broken pieces and make it look like original but when it's a valuable antique, that's an expensive mistake. That will be Stewart's and Mike's call.
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Introduction. Better late than never.
Keith Black replied to Dlowder's topic in New member Introductions
Dlowder, welcome to MSW. It's nice to have you aboard.
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