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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. NB, welcome to MSW and congratulations. Good to have you aboard. There is a search function on the main page where you can search 'Mayflower' and see who maybe currently working on the same project or those who have worked on the same project in the past.
  2. Lynn, that's a pretty tight closeup. I'm not sure filler is going to do a lot as you're almost there. The needle file in the photo that's almost in the middle of the package, 6th up from the bottom and 5th down from the top is the file I'd use. Holding the file length wise at the stern and parallel with the hull, set the edge of the file on the edge of the step and with the flat of the file against the hull with gentle pressure move the file forward only. do not go back and forth as this might cause unevenness of material removed. This is kinda like doing your nails with a emery board. The pressure needs to be more toward the hull rather than the edge. Because the edge of the file also has teeth you're going to be dressing both surfaces at once. If you're not sure you're removing material, place a black piece of paper or cloth under the hull where you can see how much material is being removed with each pass. A good trick to use if the step is going to be painted, you can apply a 'trace coat' of white acrylic paint to the step. After the paint dries and you start working the step with the file, the paint/high points will be removed first leaving paint in the low areas. It helps give you a visual guide of your high and low points.
  3. Paul, I use 3M masking tape to make bands. I cut to width and length, place on a porous scrap piece of wood and paint with the required color. When the paint is dry I wrap the tape around the spar, mast, or bowsprit and cut ( I cut on the underside when possible) where the pieces meet. I then seal with poly or one could use varnish. The sealer keeps the tape edges from lifting. If one is worried about lifting, a little CA applied at the edges with any excess removed with a Q-Tip will ensure that lifting doesn't't occur. If I need to make the banding appear thicker I add another layer of tape.
  4. Brian, I like the weathering a lot but realistically, how much weathering took place in just one year?
  5. Buddy, it's going to look great. Since you've started the second planking, press forward. As you said, this is your first, the next one with be a piece of cake and be better still.
  6. Steven, that crewman working the windless needs to get a grip. The Winchelsea Nef is really looking spiffy, I'm truly enjoying the build.
  7. Alex, welcome to MSW. I enjoyed looking in on your Dory build.
  8. Phil, fortunately I'm retired but still can't seem to find the time to work on the Tennessee like I need to. I have no clue how I ever found the time to hold down a full time job?
  9. Kramer, IMHO you're not there yet. Were I you, I'd also fill the nail holes and for sure the cracks at the bow and stern. The filler at the stern still looks a bit ragged. The goal is to make the hull's first planking look like the second planking is not required. Make that hull as smooth as a baby's behind. The better job you do on the first planking is going to make the second planking look that much better.
  10. Scott, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  11. Tom, welcome to MSW.
  12. Scott, welcome to MSW. Please introduce yourself in the new members section where we'll have the opportunity to meet you.
  13. RN, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your work.
  14. Eberhard, the paint looks great! I too have more problems with white paint than any other color.
  15. Sean, nice to meet you. I look forward to seeing your Pegasus build.
  16. Lynn, those look too big for dressing that edge. Here is a photo of needle/jewelers files. They're small and don't have handles so you can get in close to the work. \ This is the link to the above for 5.5 inches in length and 2 cut (two rows of teeth) I've never ordered from these folks. https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3437_3523_4475_4514_4839_4528&products_id=118929
  17. Lynn, great start on the step. I thought you bought some jewelers files? This would be a great opportunity to use a flat jewelers file to dress the outside edge and clean up the inside flat. Using sandpaper is going to round the edge.
  18. Peter, welcome to WSW. Good to have you aboard and I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your North King in a build log.
  19. MCB, what a fantastic build. I thoroughly enjoyed everyone of your entries. I don't know what you have planned for an encore but I've reserved a seat.
  20. Len, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your Washburn tugboat build log.
  21. I've used this in the past, it's easy to sand. I really want to try this stuff. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/timbermate-wood-filler-water-based-8-oz-natural?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImY_pu7bB8wIVQWxvBB2Alg3jEAQYEiABEgIwB_D_BwE
  22. Kramer, driving the nails in deeper was a mistake but one that's not insurmountable. You'll have to dig the pointed end of the cutters into the wood as close to the head as possible to get enough bite to lift the nail out. You're going to have gouges but that's why God made filler.
  23. You should be able to remove the brass nails using a jewelry flush cutter (see pic) Pulling the nails is going to make your sanding task so much easier. Don't just cut off the head, work the nail back and forth till you can pull it out.
  24. Richard, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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