JerseyCity Frankie

Never heard of Acrylic Ink. But I treat rigging with thinned Acrylic Paint all the time. My technique is to string up long lengths of line from two hooks as far apart as I can manage so I can do long swaths all at once. First I soak the line so it’s saturated with water, this allows the color to penetrate. Then I mix up my color, with a lot of water,  on a palate prior to scooping it up with a palette knife and plopping it on a square of wet rag. This rag I fold in half over the line I’ve strung up and I walk along the line, scrubbing the rag back and forth onto the line, working the color in. When you reach the end of the line, get a fresh rag, this time saturated with only water, and repeat the rubbing process. This second treatment thins the paint you’ve just applied and it is now that you can remove color if to your eye the results are too strong. Rubbing hard enough with the second rag, you can almost reverse the process and get back to a clean line, depending on how hard you squeeze and how much water you use. So in this way you can control the appearance. The line dries quite rapidly so do not pause between steps. Once the acrylic has dried you will never remove it.  With this technique you can make white line solid black,or, you can lightly stain a pristine line to have a color more in keeping with hemp or Manila.

If you make your own eyebolts by twisting wire around a cylindrical object you get the benefit of being able to determine the size of the eyebolt ( most kit-supplied eyebolts are very large) AND the shank of your eyebolt, being made of twisted wire, has more texture and will grip the wood better than the typical nickel or brass plated kit supplied eyebolts which have a very slick nonpourous surface that is difficult to glue.

Never heard of Acrylic Ink. But I treat rigging with thinned Acrylic Paint all the time. My technique is to string up long lengths of line from two hooks as far apart as I can manage so I can do long swaths all at once. First I soak the line so it’s saturated with water, this allows the color to penetrate. Then I mix up my color, with a lot of water,  on a palate prior to scooping it up with a palette knife and plopping it on a square of wet rag. This rag I fold in half over the line I’ve strung up and I walk along the line, scrubbing the rag back and forth onto the line, working the color in. When you reach the end of the line, get a fresh rag, this time saturated with only water, and repeat the rubbing process. This second treatment thins the paint you’ve just applied and it is now that you can remove color if to your eye the results are too strong. Rubbing hard enough with the second rag, you can almost reverse the process and get back to a clean line, depending on how hard you squeeze and how much water you use. So in this way you can control the appearance. The line dries quite rapidly so do not pause between steps. Once the acrylic has dried you will never remove it.  With this technique you can make white line solid black,or, you can lightly stain a pristine line to have a color more in keeping with hemp or Manila.

Can I have all your discarded parts to use in my more mediocre Victory?

Can I have all your discarded parts to use in my more mediocre Victory?

There’s a nice bronze memorial sculpture of Ericsson in New York City’s Battery Park in which he’s depicted holding a scale model of the Monitor. Ericsson lived in Hoboken NJ for a while, just North of where I am in Jersey City. -just a few miles away from this location on the NJ side of the Hudson River.

If you make your own eyebolts by twisting wire around a cylindrical object you get the benefit of being able to determine the size of the eyebolt ( most kit-supplied eyebolts are very large) AND the shank of your eyebolt, being made of twisted wire, has more texture and will grip the wood better than the typical nickel or brass plated kit supplied eyebolts which have a very slick nonpourous surface that is difficult to glue.

If you make your own eyebolts by twisting wire around a cylindrical object you get the benefit of being able to determine the size of the eyebolt ( most kit-supplied eyebolts are very large) AND the shank of your eyebolt, being made of twisted wire, has more texture and will grip the wood better than the typical nickel or brass plated kit supplied eyebolts which have a very slick nonpourous surface that is difficult to glue.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

There’s a nice bronze memorial sculpture of Ericsson in New York City’s Battery Park in which he’s depicted holding a scale model of the Monitor. Ericsson lived in Hoboken NJ for a while, just North of where I am in Jersey City. -just a few miles away from this location on the NJ side of the Hudson River.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

There’s a nice bronze memorial sculpture of Ericsson in New York City’s Battery Park in which he’s depicted holding a scale model of the Monitor. Ericsson lived in Hoboken NJ for a while, just North of where I am in Jersey City. -just a few miles away from this location on the NJ side of the Hudson River.

There’s a nice bronze memorial sculpture of Ericsson in New York City’s Battery Park in which he’s depicted holding a scale model of the Monitor. Ericsson lived in Hoboken NJ for a while, just North of where I am in Jersey City. -just a few miles away from this location on the NJ side of the Hudson River.

Thanks MrBlueJacket and Ragove for the kind words.  As for the deck plates I just used a simple scribe as the instructions suggested - so a little less time consuming then the individually embossed rivets.
 
Had just enough time tonight to add another coat of paint as well as mount the dahlgrens into the turret.  Very happy with how the turret has turned out after painting
 
Up next is seeing how the deck looks after the paint dries and any touchup required and then painting below the waterline.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

A side effect of a dramatic Mast Rake on a square rig is that the location of the Sling of the course yard needs to move farther forward in order to avoid having the yard laying directly on the Mast. The hole in the top to accommodate the Sling on the Brig Niagara, for instance, is way up forward near the forward rim of the top, far enough out so that the yard suspended below is free and clear of the Mast.

I started work on the hammock nettings. I changed the boarding panels so that the wooden rail could be attached to the back of the panels and not to the side. I also added a little ornamentation to the panels (img 1). I used the hammock cranes from the kit, thinned them down and mounted the whole arrangement as described by Chuck in the kit instructions (imgs 2 and 3). The netting itself was framed with a rope on 2 sides to give it a clear delineation against the wooden rail and the boarding panel side (img 4). Framing only 2 sides allows for easy fine adjustment of the final width and length of the netting when mounting it on the hammock cranes. The ‘unframed’ sides are then attached via black 100wt silk thread and CA glue to the rope which spans from the boarding panel to the last hammock crane. The last hammock crane is also used to attach the ‘unframed’ end of the netting. Images 5 – 10 show different states of the process.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 

Image 8
 

Image 9
 
 

Image 10

As long as I still have easy access to the deck I added the anchor cable along with 2 stoppers on each side. The stoppers were built according to the description in Charles G. Davis ‘The Built-Up Ship Model’ consisting of an eye around a thimble (img 1) secured with ‘round seizing’ and with a ‘double wall with ends hitched’ as stopper knot (img 2) at the other end. Img 3 shows the finished stoppers. In img 4 the lanyards are attached (simulated splice). Imgs 5 – 7 show the anchor cable arrangement with the stoppers in place.
 
Thomas
 

Img 1
 

Img 2
 

Img 3
 

Img 4
 

Img 5
 

Img 6
 

Img 7
 
 

Hello Friends,
 
It’s been a long time since my last post,  some work had cropped up which took priority over my hobby.  Here is an update of the work I managed since then. In the meantime I also did some changes to my hobby room.
 
Hobby Room
I made a new 3 meter work top with three drawer units for storage. I share half of the work top with my son who is presently studying electrical engineering. Now I must invest in a more comfortable chair.

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Inner Bulwark

 
 
 
 
 
I added some more detail to the inner bulwark.  Added the beam shelf and the stringer.  Then I added the waterway which I made from  1mm x 1mm walnut strips, rounded one edge and painted black before fixing.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I made a quick jig to mark the position on the bulwark for the eyelet arrangement for the canon tackle. I drilled all the holes ready to take the eyelets later on.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I also experimented a bit with blackening the brass eyelets.  I bought a bottle of blackening staff, mixed it with water as per instructions, cleaned the eyelets in white vinegar and according to the instructions after 30 min they should turn black.  Nothing happened!!!  I cleaned the eyelets in white spirit and after 30min still nothing happened.  I left the eyelets in the blackening liquid for the night and next day they were black.  Basically, to turn really black I had to leave them a couple of days. Why, I don’t know, maybe the material.  Now I ordered the Birchwood Brass Black and will try that as I intend to do the canons as well.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Gratings
Prepared the gratings for the upper gun deck.  The coamings for the gratings which are hardly going to show I mitred the corners.  For those which are going to show more I dovetailed the corners.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Ladders
When I came to the ladders and took out the 2mm Walnut Sheet 3 for the ladder sides I was very disapointed the way they were splintered.  There was no way I was going to use them.  I sent an image to JoTiKa and asked for a replacement.  I immediately received a reply from them confirming that thay posted a replacement and not only that, the new ones were made of solid walnut instead of plywood which were much better.  I received it in just a few days.  Very good service from JoTiKa, really helpfull.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I made a jig to cut the treads for the ladders all equal lengths.


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hull
Painted all the gunport linings in red ochre and the hull sides in yellow ochre.  Next step is to mark and paint the black bands.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hope not to take long for more updates.
 
Regards
Robert
 

Chain plates...wow. They are at the very edge of my skill. They are so small. I cannot make them consistently the same size. I've made twice as many as I need to get the right amount of same sized parts, not to mention a few sacrificed to the floor monster. I think my dog is wearing three or four of them. Next I have to blacken them & then attach them.

Good luck. And don’t forget to make the bed every once in a while :-)

None but the brave deserve the fair!

None but the brave deserve the fair!