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hamilton

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Posts posted by hamilton

  1. Thanks for the explanation Chris! It is a moving target up here too - though the 10% rule is treated as doctrine (or at least as a practical reference point) for use of copyright materials where I work.....but like everything in the legal domain, this "rule" is subject to testing!!

    hamilton

  2. Copyright is designed to protect the economic interest of the rights holder, so I don't see how giving the plans away is an issue. Aftermarket sales of print material happens all the time - check out Amazon, if not your local second hand book store. It is only when a party attempts to exclude rights holders and profiteer from protected materials that copyright applies....

     

    A question for moderators - I'm assuming that MSW runs on US servers, meaning that the site runs in the jurisdiction of the US. I am familiar with fair dealing (fair use) laws in Canada (I'm an academic so I have to be), but not so much in the US. In Canada, limited distribution of copyrighted material (a single chapter or up to 10% of a published work, e.g.) is allowed "for educational/instructional purposes". Would MSW have some copyright exemptions in its function as a knowledge-sharing service? If I were to use, for example, a modified image of section of a body plan of a ship drawn from kit-supplied plans in order to illustrate something to another user - on a log or through a PM - could this be covered under US fair use doctrine?

     

    I only ask to clarify, not because I have any intention of doing this myself - I'm usually the one asking for help!!

    hamilton

  3. This may not be entirely adequate, but you might be able to correct for this in the installation process. I'll try to describe what I'm thinking of as clearly as I can.

     

    1. On the centre keel piece, trace vertical lines from each bulkhead slot on the face running down to the bottom edge - this will show you where a straight vertical run of the bulkhead should be

    2. Dry-fit the bulkheads as they are and see where they drift off the vertical you've marked on the keel

    3. Add bracing pieces - 3/16" or 1/4" square stock can work - between the bulkheads - cut them so that they push the bulkheads roughly into position - or exactly if you can be very precise.

    4. Brush PVA into the seams between the bulkheads and centre keel to fix them in place and glue on the braces

     

    Here's a picture from my build of HMS Bellona that shows a small (1/8" square) batten installed to square off two bulkheads that did not sit evenly on the framework - I hope this is a decent illustration of the idea.

     

    When everything sets, the warp should be corrected. Admittedly, I've never seen a warp quite like this on a bulkhead piece before, but I have used the above strategies to correct for asymmetries in frameworks before. More experienced modellers might not agree with the above approach - and I would follow their advice first. But I think the above method should work ok.

    hamilton

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  4. Ahh - sorry Alan....I thought I had deleted that post (will do so now) - it was a bit pre-emptive, as the "snag" I identified was not the result of kit deficiencies, but my own stupidity - I had spent some time studying the Victory Models HMS Fly kit that I have on the shelf, and mistakenly returned the Fly cannons (with cast metal carriages.....ugh) into my Bellona box - then tried fitting the 1:64 Fly canons to the 1:100 Bellona.....this is the kind of thing that happens when I try to squeeze in some future planning alongside a current build.....

     

    Anyways, progress continues on the hull planking - I've completed band "A" (first 6 strakes below the level of the main deck) and commenced on band "B" - 6 strakes below that. Then I'll turn to the garboard and band "D" - 4 strakes up from garboard and finish from there. I won't be posting progress on this until I'm done the first planking - might be a while given limited modelling time....but until then....

    hamilton

  5. Good start to the build!

     

    The instructions are no substitute for a study of the plans - they will be much more useful for getting a feel for the build and its requirements. I've been working on this model over the last several months but spent the year prior studying the plans, making tables and plotting out the build. This is a complex model! I've already discovered that, despite my best intentions, I have to make major adjustments to the gunports - even though from outboard they run in a nice line, they do not present even heights fore the guns to protrude through them. I worry that any adjustments I make will result in a really wonky-looking arrangement....but we'll see....a lot can be corrected in the second planking!

     

    One worry I have about your build is that you've put that transom frame on prior to adding the quartergallery fillers, completing the frame fairing and first planking layer. This might make those jobs a bit more tricky for you - especially in sanding down the q-gallery fillers (which require a lot of finessing to get the proper run of planks aft). These parts need to be sanded down to nearly nothing along their top edge - I used a sanding drum in my dremmel for this. Getting into the tight corner between the transom frame and the filler will be tricky - though perhaps not impossible. 

     

    Anyways, the instructions don't state this, which is, of course, annoying - but the order of the framework construction is laid out on the plans and shows the addition of the transom frame after the completion of first planking. Not sure how difficult (or dangerous) it would be to remove that frame now - it's a thin part, so removing it could result in breakage - careful sanding of the quartergallery fillers should produce a good result - it just might take a little longer a be a little more finicky....

    hamilton

  6. I'm finding Chuck's method very effective so far - it seems like a slight modification on the approach laid out in David's primer - if I were working with wider sheet wood instead of strip stock I would probably try to spile the planks in the strakes above the waterline at least, but since this is the first layer, I'm more interested in building up a solid foundation - I have some 1mm walnut sheet stock that I might use to spile planks above the waterline in the second layer, since it is a decent colour match with the strip wood supplied by Corel, but I'll have to consider this.

     

    So far, using Chuck's method I'm nowhere near needing any drop planks at the bows, so it seems to be working. I also think that a much more attentive fairing job has contributed to this....in the past I've tended to rush through that part of things, so I hope that I've finally learned my lesson! Maybe in a few builds from now I'll actually be able to not stress out too much about hull planking!

    hamilton

  7. Hello Alan

     

    Yes - I hope to be able to emulate period practice here as much as I'm able. Though the photo shows a pretty rough planking job the first go around, this is actually quite an improvement on some of my previous attempts - most of which I had to treat cosmetically (i.e., lots of filler, sanding and knife-work to soften some clinkering edges) to produce a decent result. I've been following Chuck's procedure as laid out in the planking vids posted elsewhere on MSW and trying to be more methodical about it and patient with the process. At this stage - and I imagine this isn't an entirely uncommon thing among modellers - I usually become pretty impatient and start just slapping planks on the hull just to get it done! 

     

    Anyway - back to packing!! Bye for now

    hamilton

  8. A very quick update - I've been away with the family for the last two weeks, and I'm taking my sons to visit with my dad back East tomorrow for the next week, so not much time at the bench at all - when I'm back I'm also heading back to work, though it'll be a relatively slow start (I hope!) and I'm really hoping to finish the first layer of hull planking before things kick back in come September.

     

    In any case it's nothing spectacular - finished the first band of hull planking - looks pretty pocked and gappy, but it's coming together ok - some filling sanding and so on will result in a good enough base layer, so I'm trying to do things carefully while not beating myself too much about the results.

     

    Here's a photo to show the progress. Back later!

    hamilton

     

     

    IMG_1176.jpeg

  9. Thanks for stopping by Robert! This kit has been pretty fun so far, though admittedly I'm taking it very slowly (partly out of care, partly out of distraction, partly out of the impossibility of avoiding other people's demands!). I got my kit on a deal from Model Expo I think back in 2012 - I knew I wasn't ready for it back then, but the deal was too good to pass up!! In truth, that's how I've got most of my kits! But now I'm being embargoed (by myself) and after buying the CAF Grenado as a Christmas present for myself (sheesh!!! Any excuse will do!!) I am not allowed to buy any more kits until I have finished the 4 that I'm "currently working" on.......and 2 of the unopened kits in the pile.....As the signature suggests, I feel like I have enough models to keep me going for a while.......now if only I can finish one.....

    hamilton

  10. On 7/4/2022 at 8:50 AM, Bill Morrison said:

    I have just found your HMS Bellona here.  You are doing a marvelous job! I also suffered flooding in my basement several years ago and had to undergo a hiatus from building. It looks like you have recovered nicely. Your Bellona looks great so far!

     

    Bill

    Thanks for coming by Bill - not sure how I missed this comment before!! Water is the worst!! But yes - things are more or less back to normal, thankfully!

    hamilton

  11. The last few days have seen a start on the first layer of hull planking - specifically the topsides.

     

    I'm not sure if I noted this previously, but my plan is not to include any of the half-barrels that Corel includes with the kit and to represent closed gunports on any area of the model where fully rigged guns can't be included - that is, all the gunports on the gun deck, 4 aft and 4 forward on the main deck and 4 aft on the quarterdeck. For these, I took measurements of the ports and made backing strips from a sheet of 1/16" lime. Using the table saw, I ripped a couple of 15mm strips from which I cut the port backings. I did this individually, labelling each according to its location. The backings were cut 3mm long at top and bottom to provide a surface to fix them to the planking strips already installed and that mark the sills and lintels of the gunports.

     

    Once the backings were installed, I added short planking strips around them, and longer lengths in those areas where the open gunports will be cut out later. A bit of shaving and sanding cleaned the roughest of the rough edges - though you'll see plenty of rough spots remaining below! I'll clean this up further with filler and more sanding once the first layer is done.

     

    Next steps involve lining off and planking the lower hull (one of my least favourite tasks....), and then cutting out the open gunports on the main and upper decks. It's nice to see the ship emerging from its skeleton!

    hamilton

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