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GrandpaPhil

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  1. Gaps are filled, touchups are done and the model is sealed: Next up, those gunport sills! After that, the ochre stripe!
  2. The first round of hull decorations is on: I realized that I have a lot of paint touchups that need done and many gaps to fill. That will be the next step. I need to make gunport sills. Once those are in place and painted black I will seal the entire model. Then, I’ll paint the yellow ochre stripe across the gundeck on back onto the Admiral’s walk. Then, I can complete all hull decorations. After that I need to make my big stern carving, which will probably be made in three to four different pieces.
  3. Allan, I use a scalpel to shape everything, including the square and octagonal portions of the masts and yards. I just shave each section flat as needed and rotate the piece to make the next one flat. I just make small cuts to prevent splitting or other errors. It works quite well for me.
  4. On the subject of yards and masts, a couple years ago, I ended up with a case of bamboo kitchen skewers. They make most excellent yards and the thinner masts. I have used them in several models now, without problems. It cuts easily and the grain is dense enough that you don’t have some of the issues that you run into with dowel rods. I have made cannon and other smaller parts from the skewers too. The only thing to watch out for is that bamboo has joints in it, since it grows in a segmented fashion, which are equivalent to carving a knot on regular wood. One must be careful carving across them on longer pieces.
  5. On the subject of yards and masts, a couple years ago, I ended up with a case of bamboo kitchen skewers. They make most excellent yards and the thinner masts. I have used them in several models now, without problems. It cuts easily and the grain is dense enough that you don’t have some of the issues that you run into with dowel rods. I have made cannon and other smaller parts from the skewers too. The only thing to watch out for is that bamboo has joints in it, since it grows in a segmented fashion, which are equivalent to carving a knot on regular wood. One must be careful carving across them on longer pieces.
  6. The second planking is completely done now: Now to add the decorations. I am using the geometric pattern cut outs that came with the plan set. They look really good so far.
  7. Another tactic that can be helpful is to break the carving up into several smaller “bite sized” pieces and carve each one individually. I did that for the figurehead on the Victory. That helped tremendously to make it more manageable.
  8. Found one on Cornwall Model Boats: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Thames-Barge-Veronica-Model-Boat-Plan-MAR3584.html
  9. I have a block of beeswax that I got at a hardware store that I use for treating rigging.
  10. The models in the Merchant book are made of plastic? Did he build them using normal POB?
  11. I use Elmer’s glue sticks to glue down patterns to wood or other materials. It is generally sticky enough to hold for a bit, but then it can usually be removed relatively easily by just peeling it off. Some scraping may be required to remove all of it.
  12. If that has actual deadeyes, it would be highly recommended, and a lot less headache, to just run the shrouds and tie the ratlines yourself.
  13. Looking good! Is the centerline for planking alignment? Also, PVA sets up in about 15-20 minutes, allowing some time to work.
  14. Welcome!
  15. The interior of the bulwarks are done: Next step is to finish the second planking, seal, and then paint that last band across the gunports. Then it will be time to start applying the geometric patterns that this era is known for.
  16. The stern piece glued to a cedar grilling plank and awaiting carving: I will draw the upper layer on there once I get around to cutting that out. In the meantime, I am prepping the forecastle inner bulwarks.
  17. The hull in the background was washed with the strong tone. The soft tone gives a much better slightly weathered look.
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