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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. The first round of gratings: The one on the right is for the Orlop deck and still needs painted. The one on the left is for the gun deck leading down into the orlop deck.
  2. Jan, Sorry about that. I accidentally deleted my reply earlier when I went to edit it. I have read all of Doris’s and Ab Hoving’s build logs very carefully. Their work is incredible! I have learned a lot from both of them. I used the vertical planking method on my other card ships. With these plans being originally for a wood kit, I am curious to see what happens if I just plank it normally with card, to build up the 2mm thickness that it is designed for. My card is 1mm and it will be double planked so the numbers work out perfectly. Plus, the gunport/railing forms are supposed to be 1mm thick. I’ll put the contact paper on the outside layer prior to cutting and installation. The planking material I have now is for the orlop deck. I want to try and make normal planks, with black on the sides of the planks. The orlop deck won’t be visible anyway so it is an excellent candidate for experimentation. If it pans out well, I’ll do the same on the upper decks as well. I have the gratings for the orlop deck made and the gratings for the gundeck partially made now. The hatch going down to the orlop deck is made too. I’ll get pictures later.
  3. The bulkheads are center keel are ready for use and assembled. The middle section is glued together and painted dark brown. I am gluing bulkheads as I get decks installed to support said bulkheads and keep them square. Currently working on the hatches and bulkheads on the orlop and gun deck. I started cutting apart the part of the plans showing the photoetch pieces and then remembered that I didn’t need to do that. I used thin card to great effect on my other models and will on this one too. There are some parts of the gundeck: I got fresh wood grain contact paper for “planking”. I stuck some of if on the other half of this Valentine’s card for planking material.
  4. Baker, Thank you very much! I will use the same method that I used for the Prince de Neufchatel. I essentially just cut the pieces out like normal, just out of card, and then double layer the heavier pieces, like the sides. It worked pretty well. This time I am going to carve the cannons from wood and then use thin pieces of card for the banding.
  5. I bought the e-book of Alexander Stilwell’s HMS Revenge tonight. An excerpt from it regarding the typical armament: So, I have been hunting down photos of the above weapons for later conversion to scale drawings. They will be carved out of dowel rods. These two pictures will be my models for carriages:
  6. The first round of parts are drying under glass for the night: I learned that trick on this forum. I used Mont Marte Glue.
  7. All bulkheads are now cut out and here is the test fit: Once I laminate everything together, I am going to make and install gratings, and “plank”/paint the orlop deck. It will not be visible, but the gratings will add structural integrity.
  8. All bulkheads are rough cut and I’m test fitting as I finish cutting out all bulkhead layers: When I build that other ironclad (I am constantly learning and adapting in this hobby), I am going to cut my bulkheads down to the second gundeck and plan to put the first false deck there, slotted in like this one. However, I am going to put a false orlop deck in as well, for structural integrity.
  9. I just started another card model. I am building the Revenge in 1/64 scale from Victory Models plans.
  10. Well done! Looking forward to seeing your next build! To minimize the effects of a tremor, brace your arm or wrist on a solid surface.
  11. Build whatever you feel comfortable with. Ensure it is a subject that you like and are interested in and will stay interested in. Zu Monfeld recommends something like a cog for a starter model. I recommend a smaller boat or ship like a jolly boat kit, a cutter, a schooner or a brig. You will find out what you like pretty quickly. Never be afraid to try a new type of model. But, as has been said earlier, it is best to build them one at a time. And, case in point with Mark’s comment, I am one of the people with a semi-dead Victory build. I started it six years ago. Finishing it would not be particularly difficult at this point, I just do not have the interest. It still needs close to a year to finish and I discovered that my ship model building interests lie elsewhere. It will most likely be resurrected at some point, but not for a long while.
  12. Making progress: I am cutting the basic shape out and notching everything I can get to with scissors and then finalizing with a scalpel. It is working much better than just by scalpel alone. This heavy card eats scalpel blades. I was changing blades every other part. Since starting with scissors, I have gotten five or six parts so far, this blade.
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