hollowneck

18 minutes ago, druxey said:

"Please, Cap'n, there's a gubbins in the rigging!"

"Bollocks! That rigging bloke is as thick as two short planks!"

..like more 3D pear blocks.

22 hours ago, Chuck said:

They are available!!! 

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

Very nice detail work on your rigging, Maurice. Thank you for sharing these techniques.

On 6/9/2025 at 5:06 PM, Chuck said:

I cracked the code...1:64 or 3/16" scale belaying pins are now in stock.  They are 7.4 mm long or 9/32".

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!

To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.

AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

19 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Rest assured though, this is all I am working on, although I do get side tracked a lot due to having to produce more stock for current kits....

A problem, for sure. But – a good one to have.

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

I don’t need to decide  until the shrouds are fitted, but the lowered Topmast position is the one I’m favouring.

Decidedly esoteric. But that's what many of us do!

I don't see that the ship's boat are too obscured by the topmasts on the gallows; I like this detail given your choices on a minimized rigging presentation. Looking wonderful!

What a nice looking model, Clare.

Suggestion: make your own silkspan "draped" ensign. It's a lot more work but worth it, especially for a non-rigged model like yours. I just did one for my latest, a gun brig (attached quickie shop pic).

BTW: really nice baseboard, did you make and finish it? I like it. Please tell me it's not made of paper!🤨

11 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

Having grown up in Warminster, PA, I was using this as an opportunity to wiff on New Jersey.  

Ah-Ha! Your humor went right over my head. Too subtle. I'm fond of San Diego BTW.

A large contingent of my family lives a couple miles away in Warminster. And many members of my modeling club (Philadelphia Ship Model Society) live in (Southern) Jersey. As a recent Connecticut to PA emigré, I still have much to learn about the various tribes of the Mid-Atlantic...e.g. South Jersey vs North Jersey, Delaware vs PA (and NJ).

6 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

You should have gone with Modeller's Sawmill.  I believe the tariff from New Jersey is much lower. 

Thanks for the recommendation Chuck. Good to know there are other vendors.  I guess I didn't make it clear that there was no tariff to pay for my wood shipment from Europe. I don't mind an extended delivery from Europe, or the additional shipping cost.

I've been very pleased with the vendor I use since they consistently maintain the tight metric tolerances I require and they can also supply hardwoods that offer color choice and consistency within the same species.  

On 5/28/2025 at 5:59 PM, Chuck said:

These tariffs are a bigly bummer.  

Helter Skelter Time my friends.

I just received a shipment of milled wood from Estonia by regular post (mail). It took 19 days to arrive since it sat in U.S. Customs for about a week. I figure they couldn't figure out what to do on tariffs since it was a box of wood when they opened it (and didn't re-seal it well). Another fact: I've ordered rope from Canada and since it (com)packs into a normal letter-sized envelope it sails through to the USPS and usually within 7-10 days to my doorstep. No tariff nonsense, so far...

For U.S. Customs Declarations (all packages), most of our ex-U.S. vendors know to indicate that their shipment contains "hobby parts."

24 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Those look fantastic!

Ditto, I concur! 3D Printing is changing our game dramatically: from stoves to blocks and deadeyes, from boats and scale-accurate figures.

Excellent work on your small boats. They are yummy, like a dollop of Devon clotted cream on a crumpet.

On 4/19/2025 at 1:13 PM, TJM said:

Perhaps a bit of contrast by painting the wale black? Or a yellow, red or blue trim somewhere? 

Nice job.

Vanguard's 3/D printed boats are gems. I agree: a thin color stripe (your choice) would look good. Good decision to retain the inner natural wood tones and paint the exteriors white. I would surmise this is a more accurate color scheme for the period. Perhaps the only exception would be the Captain's barge (pinnace).

I recently added two Vanguard ship's boats to one of my favorite, older models designed by Chris: the HMS Diana (Caldercraft). I believe they make a nice addition. Only two added midships since a normal, larger complement would hide much of the midship's deck details!

3 hours ago, brunnels said:

but I am undecided if there will be a build log or not with the baby coming, plus I'm not sure I can really offer much other Speedy log's haven't already covered.

Congratulations on your Sphinx and allow me to congratulate you on your next project: new fatherhood.

You've done a superb job with this superb kit and made it yours. I like many of the choices you've made along the way, especially your color palette which tells me you lean toward being an artist, like myself. 

I've posted previously on MSW that documenting one's work on a Build Log will roughly double the amount of time involved with the completion of the model. It's more than taking photos and uploading them; there is also necessary prose to explain and detail one's decisions and implementations. With a new child on the way, you're going to be very busy and have limited hobby time for a while: I'm certain you'll understand your new priorities.

On 4/2/2025 at 5:27 AM, Linus Spjutsberg said:

Now I really look forward to getting started this summer.

Linus, Thank You, much appreciated. My HMS Camilla diorama is 1 M (37" wide) X 27" deep.

Allow me to give you two MSW links on this model:

The first is for my photo gallery in my profile that shows many other angles of this competed model. The second link is for my HMS Sphinx Build Log which has 19 pages of details on my build, including making her sails, the additional and required sail rigging and the crafting of the diorama's presentation base.

Good luck on your build of this elegant and superbly designed kit from Vanguard. Many hours of pleasure. Guaranteed!

https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2658-hms-camilla-1775-vanguard-models-hms-sphinx/

On 1/18/2025 at 7:39 AM, Linus Spjutsberg said:

My dream is that at some point transfer my hobby to larger wooden model ships from the same era, but at this time that's not an option financially or with time in mind.

Impressive models! I too like your gaming mat.

You will find that your Vanguard Brig model is a perfect "step" into a larger wooden ship model world. I've attached a photo of my Vanguard HMS Camilla (Vanguard's HMS Sphinx), in her full-sized, seascape diorama. I hope that you won't mind me posting this photo on your thread. If I'm wrong, my apologies in advance. 

Also, I posted a lengthy Build Log here for this model which also detailed how I fabricate my sails and the water.

Ron

15 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

Yeah, between a bun.......with cheese.

...and Bacon, courtesy of their close barnyard friends...

Great job on this restoration, Glen. Congratulations on an excellent job!

6 hours ago, chris watton said:

like Killick bumbling into the cabin with a tray of food,

"...which is the toasted cheese and plum duff is catching a cold, Sir!"

1 hour ago, Knocklouder said:

Even got the First Mate  permission  lol

As the saying goes: "Better to ask for forgiveness, than permission."

Love this illustration. Posted on Amati's new website....

23 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Place my order 😎

Mine too...

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Don’t quite know why my old Pentax Bridge camera is showing a lurid pink/purple shade to the ochre paintwork on some photos, but suffice to say it is not representative of the true effect.

The waterway looks great and should be represented with this detailed model: I also add them and pierce for the scuppers.

I have a suggestion on the color problem: try doing a "white balance" with your camera. Your camera's software should allow this adjustment. You'll basically have your camera's sensor look at a "white" (or Gray) card and you'll make subsequent adjustments to correct for the tone it shows you. You can also Google this term. A number of options will explain what can be done to correct your camera's output. Pentax also should have directions available.

Impressive recovery work CWO Highlanderburial.

I can't wait to see your restoration in person at the next Philadelphia Ship Model Society's monthly meeting!

Nice - ah - nice...

Ron

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

You can see the current state compared to the virgin plates for the Rudder.

 

Nice exposition on your copper patina trials; close - but no cigar (yet). I agree that the coppering on your Harpy looks just fine as it stands. Mother Nature will do the rest. Your chemistry trials reminded me of my own that I also abandoned. This photo taken after approximately two years after placed on her pedestals. These are the questionable "domed" copper plates from Caldercraft, circa 2012/13.

5 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I decided to add a batten along the copper top line.

 

Good call. The batten definitely helps the aesthetics. A 1.0 mm strip is all it takes.

I did the same with my old school Caldercraft 64 that has the golf ball sized bumps on her otherwise accurately-sized copper plates.

6 hours ago, James H said:

It would be cheaper to either buy direct or from Vanguard Models.

Good Karma, either way.