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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. Well.. according to the specs, that strip it 2" long... I counted 53 blocks and spaces along the strip, comes out to dentils that are roughly 0.030" (probably smaller due to the slight excess of the ends, so you're probably closer to 0.025") If it was me, they're really not that expensive, I'd order a set and see what you think in person. Otherwise you could be stuck doing a royal PITA job... Andy
  2. Here, check this out: http://grandtline.com/products/arch/ho/ho_scale_architectural_trim.html Down a bit, they offer strips of dentils. I'm assuming that's what's confounding you? (It's also available in 1:48) Andy
  3. That's 'cause you're not trying hard enough.... should be averaging one of those every 7.6 minutes......
  4. I can see it now, Sjors posing his ship in front of the room door to take more photos next time he has some progress to report, someone unknowingly rushes into the room, slamming open the door..... and smash-o... nuthin' but kindling...... Hope you can lock the door from the inside, with something secure.... like 5/8" chain.... Andy
  5. That's really looking nice. Great job on all those figures. Andy
  6. I could see Augie doing a scratch build next.... Either a Lumberyard/Hahn scratch kit or he's gonna go all Swan class on us.....
  7. Are you talking about Euromodels?
  8. If it was up to me, I'd try and bring them down to about 5mm wide, leave about 1/2mm overhang outside and maybe just a little overhang on the frames. Anyway, that's all up to you so you can do what you feel you need to. Hey... you gonna get that Goth finished or what?
  9. Maybe it's just me, but your cap rails look a bit on the wide side. She looks ok, but she might look even better with them narrowed down a bit. Like I said though, it could just be me Andy
  10. Oh.. that's just a bad idea no matter which way you slice it....
  11. <<grabs a roll of duct tape>> Don't make me use this....
  12. Congratulations on your completion. She looks really nicely put together. (for the love of *** don't drop her! ) Andy
  13. Gee... for all that "doom and gloom" earlier, you're not doing too badly at all.... Andy
  14. Not a bad go on the planking so far Keep up the good work Andy
  15. Larger scale does not necessarily mean less parts, it just means the parts there are tend to be larger. What scale basically means is how much a model has been reduced from full size. For example a ship made in a scale of 1:48, is 1/48th the size of the real thing, or more simply, 1 real foot is equal to 48 scale feet on a model, another way to think of it, a real 1/4" is equal to 1 scale foot on the model. The math does work out. The larger the second number, the smaller the model will be. Andy
  16. We're like annoying telemarketers.... we'll just keep calling back...
  17. More like twenty pages of Sjors talking... Well... Ok.... There might be one photo somewhere in there....
  18. On the other hand, you're stating with a clean slate, so you'll know if you've missed something in the future. Andy
  19. Out of curiosity, will this one also become a book/series of books? Among many others, it seems, I am fascinated by your new endeavour, and I look forward to following your build. Andy
  20. I think Ben was only around 32 hours when he got to this stage..... why so slow?
  21. Very good for a first time job. It only gets better from here. Andy
  22. Maybe next time, try for the 1:96 version. Same basic ship, but slightly larger and more detailed. More options to try your hand at small subtle improvements. Don't worry about having everything perfect the first time.... I don't think anyone goes out and produces a masterpiece for their first ship. Good luck with finishing your build... And don't be afraid to post more photos... We're a bunch of photo addicts around here Andy
  23. Ok.. I see one issue you may wish to correct.. both your head sails are on upside down. The "bottom" in your pictures should be the side that's bent on to the stays. But again, I'd go with 0.012" or 0.015" wire painted black. Drill a #80 hole on the pin rail where the sheet is supposed to go, insert one end of the wire in the hole, bend the wire to meet the sail at the angle you want, trim to length to allow a small overlap in the clue of the sail, and secure both ends with a bit of CA (crazy glue). You can then touch up the bit of wire overlapping the sail with matching paint to hide it. As for your square sail, is your yard arm firmly (rigidly) attached to the mast? If so, I would glue the sail to it at the outward angle you most prefer., Otherwise use the wire method I just described. Andy
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