mikegr

Does the kit include any barrel life rafts like these in the photo?

Indeed looks like a model now not a toy.

Quite fast and clean job.

I will use this thread as a guide for my own kit with WE parts when i decide to deal with it. Perhaps in 2025 

On 8/18/2021 at 8:59 PM, CDW said:

This is one of the reasons I pay a premium price and buy from a dealer in my own country. Could have paid a few dollars less by ordering it direct from Asia, but far too often this is the end result. There are a few dealers in Asia I trust and order from them directly, but many just don't ship with adequate packaging. On the other hand, even when packed well, the Samsonite Gorilla sometimes gets ahold of your package and it's all over but the cryin'.  

Don't tell me

On 9/23/2021 at 1:50 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

They aren’t cheap, but after trying out many tweezers, I tried Dumont tweezers which are very good.  I believe I first heard about them when reading a book on miniature ship model building.

 

Here is a picture of the tips of two that I use the most.  Very sharp points!

 

I got a set used for micro electronic repairs.

I also got a few of cheaper ones which I sharpened with dremel tool and turned equally good to the pro set

Frequently sharpening of twizzers, pliers and other tools  removes glue, paint and keeps them very effective no matter how they cost.

Done making the mast. Assembling the PE type 279 radar was a dirty job but someone had to do it. Lost few antennas, replaced them with brush hair. Will work on the other mast from Tuesday.

I have finished the AA guns. The white marks are ammunition boxes made of 0,8mm rectangle balsa much easier than folding PE.

I am now scratchbuilding the front mast with 0.6 and 0.8mm PE brass rods. Later i will use other material for the top antenna.

ROK Navy has some nice Aegis destroyers. That would be an interesting theme. They are also very capable carring almost 130 VLS tubes for weapons.

That rivet detail is definitely overscaled.  Flyhawk has gone too far. Rigging also is. But rigging for me is essential. That rivet thing...I don't know.

Amazing

On 9/21/2021 at 3:33 AM, king derelict said:

Thank you Mike, That is a really great photograph. It will be really useful both from a weathering aspect and also for the detail layout. The Trumpeter instructions are a bit vague and in some cases incorrect.  The Trumpeter instructions shows the longer yard arms on teh fore mast being on the forward side. The WEM instructions for the PE shows them on the aft side. Your photograph confirms this so thank you very much.

The dark grey decks look pretty grubby. Do you know how long she had been at sea at that point.

Thanks again

Alan

This photo is taken in 2021. The ship HMS Argyll, as well as Montrose have their own page, where you can find more information and photos

https://twitter.com/hmsmontrose?lang=el

https://twitter.com/search?q=hms argyll&src=typed_query

14 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Does the metal primer stay put  when you start bending it into shape, or does it crack?    I have never used it.

 

OC.

Like I have said in previous thread the most durable and sticky primer for shiny metal parts is epoxy primer like those used in car industry. I always prime my PE parts them work with them with no issues.

An aerial photo of a type 23 frigate. Just to get an idea of how the dark grey deck can turn to red brown cause of rust and weathering, in case you are interested.

This is more of  a toy than a kit. I hope it worth the time and extra spending on PE and other upgrades.

I made the funnel caps. The ring where the cap will sit on, was not included in PE parts so I made them using 0.5 mm brass wire

Next are the 8 pom pom AA guns. They are comprised from various parts, the base, the barrels, the barrel case and two ammunition boxes. Shaping the latter into rectangle was out of question at least for my level. I just cut the boxes from the plastic parts and glued them

3 hours ago, Egilman said:

Well, My Anycubic Mono X finally arrived today, (2 days late after a 1k miles side trip around southern California) along with it's accompanying Wash & Cure Plus...... 

 

Unfortunately, the 1 kg of resin that was supposed to be delivered with it didn't arrive.... I hope Anycubic is as good as the reviews say they are and they get it out quickly....

 

So until then, I'm still waiting...

 

Will say more when there is something to say... {chuckle}

 

EG

We are looking forward to your test results.

Chitubox is considered by many the most advanced free 3d software. Some printers also offer  a free one year subscription to chitobox pro worth of 170$.

Personally I am interested on Elegoo Saturn for the increased     192x120x200mm print area and the 4k resolution.  The price is kinda raised at the moment around 450$ so I wait for a price drop while still researching. The FDA printers is something that i haven't turned down completely. They may lack in print quality a bit but they win in every other aspect comparing to resin printers.

Finally there are resins at the market which can be cleared only with water. Their curring time also is quite short eliminating the need for a washer. Their cost is about 50$ per bottle I think.

Most upgrade on PE comes from the crane set

Model washed and stripped off partially

I ordered some PE from Russia. They have a very detailed tracking system. First time I see an exporting item going through customs on departure country.

i had to scratchbuilt some missing parts

Reverse engineering. Start building the project...from the end.

Next project

Prince of Wales by Tamiya

1 hour ago, thibaultron said:

How about a tutorial on how you make the seas for your diaroma?

I will do so from now on. Each built will have a different make approach

Most recent rebulit was Yamashiro by Aoshima.

Really bad and inaccurate model. Note the turret after the funnel. It points this way because there is not enough space between funnel and aft tower.

Also the upper deck unlike forecastle and rear deck is smooth, without panel lines. Ordering a wooden deck sticker would set me back several weeks so i just painted it gray.

Al least i was satisfied with the sea bed even if i didnt use any special materials.

4 hours ago, amateur said:

Your display has also been upgraded (and will be certainly more space consuming than the old "display on a dusty shelf"

Did you only clean the model, or did you completely rework the paint?

 

Jan

Yes I make plexiglass cases for my models from now on. But the chloroform dilute is a top secret among professionals so I glue it with CA thus case looks whitish at joints.

The enamel paint lasted great all these years but new PE pieces added and since I didnt remember the code I had to respray everything