Mirabell61
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Everything posted by Mirabell61
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Wow Bob, good looking longboat Nils -
Good morning Pete and thanks for your kind comment, I always admired model builders who were able to fit contoured frames into a clinkered hull ( built over a plug or a preliminary skeleton) this now is my first clinkered hull, and also planked with pear planks, so I`m experiencing and learning, hopefully to get it done as I aimed for..... The best result I achieved was like shown in my post # 95 I`m still hesitating a bit with the resembling of the horizontal rows of plank connecting,pins, nails, dowels, etc. because I fear, that if they do`nt get absolutely aligned, near to the plank edges, it would not look neat and perhaps could spoil the look above the waterline. The actual Zeesboot planks had glued-in wooden plugs over the connectors, that were sanded flush after setting.... Nils
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A good start Pete, as you are planing to RC sail her, just a question : will you be having a fin with a lead bomb external beneath the hull (perhaps removeable), or will the ballast go at lowest possible into the hull ? Guess you may be lookng at 6-7 Kg external ballast..... Nils
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Fender Guitar by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - CARD
Mirabell61 replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Congrats Danny, That guitar looks great ! How about doing a 12 string western Guitar ? Nils -
H Kier, if you can make use of it, here is how I usualy do it. In this case the model, my Chebec Eagle of Algier, is foreseen to display in a glass cabinet when completed. When using brass pedestals I look out for some hollow ones, for instance made from old candle holders. The connecting part is a threaded spindel, which is anchored in the ship (interlocked in a suitable threaded conterpart fastened above the keel. The bottom side of the spindel goes through the pedestal and through the stand plate, and gets a washer and a nut as a counter part. Please refer to the pics, trust they ars self explaining.... Cheers , Nils
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Tolles Modell Martin ! a very good looking model Martin, I like it Nils
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Wunderbar ! very neat work Peta, love it... Nils
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Status : beginning the port side deck edge.... Nils the brass strips (0,6 x 3 mm) are fastened to the short side deck beams with pins, before they are securely glued in the side beams will be trimmed off on the inward side to the working cockpit later on a "footrail" will be fastened to the brass stips
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Hi B.E. I`ll be in for the same tricky task with my Zeesboot a little later on. I think I`ll give up the simulated rivet connection with 0,6 mm flat headed pinswhere I wanted to slip on miniatur discs from the inside to simulate the clenching discs. Looking at lapstrake joints in actual the copper nails pins are not even flush th the planks but sunk in so far that towards the outside the holes are plaged off with small round wooden dowels and sanded flush. Although I``m working in scale 1:24, that would be impossible for me to do in that way, although the planks are 2 mm thick. I went Web-looking for mini brass or copper flat head pins...., best suitable are mini nails I found at Krick (Article 473842). The great benefit is that the nails have only 0,6 mm diam. and a flat head with only 1 mm diam. !!. I think I will be using these... and set them flush with the outside. An alterative could be doing only dilling the holes and fitting in toothpick points ( like treenails) Another task is to get the borings all to align properly in row. and distance, if this ca`nt be done utmost tidy it will "look at you" for ever after.... Am curious how you shall master this, and wish you luck and good success Nils
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Looking good so far B.E. What will you be using for the horizontal inter connecting of the lapped planks ? (for optical matter only) Nils
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Svein, a very well built cutter hull from a wonderful kit....., she`ll surely turn out a beauty when complete Nils
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Correct and thanks Michel, no pollution, good idea, perhaps I can claim a technical Nobel prize for that Nils
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Good morning John and Eberhard, Thanks for your comments, and also to all those who clicked the "likes".... John, I had a broad smile from ear to ear when I read your lines..... Think its just that what we remember as the good old days, compared with the regulations all over, we have for everything today. The exhaust pipe should get a little plate fixed with warning "hot, do`nt touch, danger of being burnt, plasters, bandage and Asperin in the cabin" Eberhard, when I read asbestos the "red light" went on in my mind straight away, bearing all the facts you mentioned Nils
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Thanks for looking in Yves, and for your comment. For mounting the engine I needed at least mini steel screws M1,4, anything thinner than that rips off, just by srewing it in. I`ve learnt my lesson there, and scalewise its a small compromise is`nt it Nils
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Status : carrying on with the side deck support beams on the port side... I`m using 4 mm thick, 7 fold layer ply to cut out the sidebeam members to get a strong support connection. Probably there will be 9 short sidebeams per side, and they will be trimmed off to suit the cockpit width and the working area. There will also be lashes (brass sheet strips) that find their lower anchouring points attached between these sidebeam ends and the inner skin planking of the hull. I need these strips later to sufficiently fasten an extra foot-rail plank about (3 mm gap) above the later deck level. In the cabin area I wo`nt do too much timber joining work so the later cut out with view into the cabin wo`nt be spoilt (just as much as necessary for the static) Nils
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Many thanks for looking in B.E. I`m pleased you like the Zeesboot, it is a traditional two man crew workboat, as used for professional fishers in East German teritories on the Baltic sea near shores and mostly on the wide Bodden lakes, in this case motorized around the turn of the century, 1900, which caused the live fish containments to be shifted from where now the engine is, to right and left of the centerboard, The fishy smell must have been all throughout the boats and the clothing of the crew at that time. Nils
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Thanks Pete, because I have no given build plan, all the next steps will be acc. to my mind, from pictures, and from available liturature and from the web researches, the engine related part is now done, there may perhaps later on be a little panel box for the helmsman with rpm, oil-temp and start /stop button. Next I probably will move on with the deck beams, and the short cockpit side beams, and deck covering in thin ply, (to be planked ) Nils
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sorry, have deleted a posting of mine, done here by mistake Nils
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Brave, brave E.T., thats indeed a special task with the clinkering, and I know you`ll do a wonderful job, I love the clinkered "Alert" version in Peter Goodwins book and you`re going for it..... Nils
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- alert
- vanguard models
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Thanks for sharing all those pics out of the Oslo museum Eberhard... Nils
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beautiful work Peta, deck and fitting out is superb... Nils
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- master korabel
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A beautiful boat Bob, it looks very nice and well built !! Nils
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Bonet housing for the engine.... the port side has a large outcut, an additional hinged hatch cover will be on top, so the engine will not be hidden... Nils Bonnet with upper hatch and air ventilation blinds little round ball at the end of the clutch lever, for better grip
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Sweet comment many thanks Pete... I spent some flanges for the water cooling tubes as well, am thinking about how to do the deck beams and how to place the outcuts in the cabin area Nils
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