Richard44

Probably referring to common white carpenter's glue, PVA, poly vinyl acetate.

I thought that might be the case, but you only find out after you've bought the kit. Whereas Philipp more or less suggests finding out before hand.

How do you do this? I could have easily missed something, but I've looked at the Orel website and at some of the models and couldn’t see any reference as to the designer.

Wow. Very, very different to the Nautilus in the Walt Disney movie. Cheers Edit. Should have added this image.

I'm with Keith on this. Use the existing pieces, but before committing, check how much you need to remove where the pieces aren't quite in alignment - it looks to be about 1mm or so. Dry fit a couple of the frames to see if the reduced height of the keel (assuming you do sand the lower/upper edges of the keel) affects their fit. If it looks like everything will be more or less "off", then a new keel from ply would be the answer. Also, I've noticed that you wrapped everything in cling film while glueing and as you have found out, this can obscure what's happening with the glueing. You only need the cling film if there is a chance of accidentally glueing another piece to the two you are joining. You didn't need to use the cling film that shows in the following images. Cheers

Micha, For what it's worth, I used white PVA (the common one here in Aus is Aquadhere) almost exclusively when building the boat. I may have used CA occasionally. Most of the gluing is easy enough. For the planking, I ran a thin bead of glue along the top edge of a plank, clamped (pegs work well) the next plank to it and wiped off excess glue, moving the clamps as required to do this. Good luck with your build. Edit. I should have added this. The only joints on this boat that will be under any sort of stress are those associated with the planking. The planks are already spiled, and if you fit the planks before gluing, the stresses will be minimal. You do not need a super strong glue. Cheers

Hi Micha, I thought that I would show you a few photos of my Roar Ege. Unfortunately, there is no build log as I built it before joining MSW ☹️. Probably can't help much with questions either 🥴 as the build was quite a while ago. The kit does make into a nice model. Enjoy. Cheers

Hi Jaager, The screws are now metal, but it is fiddly trying to get that sweet spot. I had no trouble with stock moving around, but I was only ever cutting small sectioned wood. It's not perfect, but it worked for me. Cheers

I fastened mine to a board, then fashioned a moveable stop from aluminium (aluminum 😁) angle so that I could cut multiple pieces all the same length. Cheers

Hi Alex, I don't actually live in the Blue Mountains, I live at Gosford. I travel to the BlueM occasionally for bushwalks. That's a great looking model you've got. Cheers

You could look at this tool. I have one and it works very well. https://www.micromark.com/Miter-Rite Cheers

After drinking a bottle of schnapps, I can well understand your confusion - clearly I meant along the bottle, not around it 😁😁 Cheers

Wind the thread gently around a dowel 10 times, measure the length, divide by 10.🙂

Kpfw VI Tiger I ?? 🙂🙂 Cheers

Hi Alex, welcome. What part of the Blue Mountains are you from? I've just done a bushwalk at Lawson. Cheers

Chris, Do you seal in any way the edges of the frames before sanding? I usually wind up with very fuzzy edges and have been thinking of soaking the edges with dilute PVA beforehand - not CA as I don't think PVA will adhere to the frame later when the skin (or whatever) is attached. Thanks. Cheers

Don't know if it would work, but you could try printing by stretching and fastening the silkspan onto a sheet of paper. Laser printer might work better than ink jet.

You could try moistening the frame first - the moisture triggers the CA. One problem may be the wood itself. Some woods are slightly oily and CA doesn't like it. Best of luck.

That’s looking very nice indeed.

Hi Mike, I see that you've just looked at my build log, so you know that the outside of the hull was painted, but most of the rest of the boat was left natural. 🙂. I now have no idea where I got the colour scheme from - I think it is fairly typical of boats of that time. Cheers

You really do wonderful, painstaking work. Amazing.

And thanks to everybody who followed this build, "liked" it, or made comments. Very much appreciated. Cheers

Thanks Alan, OC, Andrew, GrandpaPhil, Rob and Chris.🙂 It was certainly an interesting build, now on to the next build, probably a boat. Cheers PS. Thanks Chris for correcting the title, one of these days I'll get it completely correct.🥴😁

Hi, Ken That was only my guess. The only photos I found of that radiator arrangement didn't help with seeing where the lines went. Cheers

The engine was liquid cooled, and the radiators (there were two) were mounted either side of a triangular pylon that was fastened to the fuselage between the two cockpits. (This pylon was also an important part of the rigging of the aircraft.) Other versions of the Taube, later or different manufacturers, had the radiators flat against each side of the fuselage immediately aft of the engine bay. The instructions give no hint as to how the coolant flowed between the engine and the radiators. Looking for photos on the net didn't help much, so I simply ran two styrene rods down from each radiator, along the top edge of the forward fuselage and into the engine bay. Quite possibly wrong, but at least the radiators don't look ridiculous. The rigging. As mentioned above, the diagram in the instructions didn't quite match the photo on the cover of the kit. A search of the internet showed many images of Taubes, mostly low-res. There were a few three views that allowed me to come up with an acceptable, to me anyway, rigging plan. There was still some uncertainty about some of the wires as start and end points could not be identified, so these were omitted. The main problem here was that I initially found no views of the underneath of the aircraft. After completing the rigging I did find two sites, with replicas, that showed the underside of the wings and fuselage. It was still not clear to me where some of the wires went so I left my completed rigging “as is”. (It looks as if one of the replicas, the one in the Deutsches Museum, was the basis for this model.) The engine was finally glued in place and the propeller added. I laminated the printed propeller with some lighter coloured card to give it a 3D appearance. So, here it is, the Rumpler Taube of 1911. Thanks to all who visited, reacted or left comments. Much appreciated. Cheers