Rik Thistle

For me it's upgrade from Dremel to a decent flex shaft tool. Good suggestion. The Dremel body is very heavy and bulky for fine, light work. The flexible drive (coupled with the mini hand tightend chuck) makes the Dremel cutter/drill/sander bit on the end so much easier to manipulate. It may be wiser to get: A gift certificate to a special tool vendor: This is the ideal solution since your father won't know what tools he really needs until the need arises. The suggested books do look good though as do the quality tools. A book might be a good supplementary gift though since he can read it in the 'family' areas and start 'did you know that....' conversations 🙂 Richard

Schooner iced up. A stunning painting yet scary at the same time. Another one of my favourites 🙂 Richard Edit: I see the icebergs have arrived...now it's even colder!

Muirneag is looking very sweet. Just thinking aloud.....So the steam capstan is used to pull the sail tight at the front rather than lift the weight of the sail straight up the mast. I guess it's easier and more accessible for the crew to lift the sail straight up, but a greater strain on the human body to attempt to try to generate enough force to get the sail nice and tight at the front....hence the use of the capstan? Is there a 'slipping clutch' arrangement on the capstan to stop it generating too much force, or did the crew rely on experience to 'know' when the ropes were tight enough and then turn off the power to the capstan? Amazing how they quickly used 'new' technologies to make life on board more efficient. And then they later used capstans for hauling in the nets, AFAIK. Slowly getting in to March's Sailing Drifters...it's a very good story apart from being a deep insight into the history and workings of these boats. Regards, Richard

Yeah, the more I look at Ian's pics the more puzzling it is .... on pg4 http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipmaid4.html ....about 1/4 of the way scrolled down, there are two pics (identified by a row of storage trays at the top of the pics -1st pic BP078, BP079 etc , 2nd pic BO337 etc). The first pic shows there is a rope from the end of the yard to a block attached (seemingly*) to the ratline. But in the second pic the rope appears to go down to the deck....there doesn't seem to be any ropes going to the ratline. Is it an optical illusion caused by the angle the pics are taken at? *looking at the tension in the rope I'd have thought the ratline would have bulged out towards the yard end? The mysteries of ship building 😉 Richard

Hi gthursby, Edit: I should have first pointed you towards the seven or so builds already on MSW ... https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=scottish maid&quick=1 ...apologies. ------------------------- I wonder if these pics of an AL Scottish Maid model can help ... http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/maid.html ...and his build log ... http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipmaid4.html You might be able to zoom in on some of the pics showing routing for the yard rigging. The line extending to the shroud looks like a drawing error, but I'm not a ship modelling expert. There are many others on this website that can give more informed advice. My AL Dallas build had different rigging and no shrouds but the yards were controlled via blocks. Generally, I found the draughtsmanship on the AL Dallas plans to be very good, even though some of the important details were not that obvious on first inspection, but they were still there. Regards, Richard

Glenn, Your decking layout and the sharpness of it's detail is to be much admired. Richard

Nazir, 6. If I just keep current bits loose, is there good tool to measure diameter that u can recommend? The manufaturer/material/drill diameter is usually stamped/etched on the blank end of the drill. An eyeglass can make out that small print. If that print is unreadable then a micrometer (or a Vernier at a push) across the widest diameter of the cutting flutes will acurately tell you the drill diameter. Richard

I haven't used those two brands Jim, but seeing that the price of a single drill from them is about the equivalent of a set of 'budget' drills from Amazon gives some indication that they are for serious use, as they would be in your shop Richard.

Bob, And those are 1986 prices!...gulp. Yes, the old defence contractor network was sure milking that the NASA cow for all it was worth. But I can't see Musk tolerating that kind of behaviour...his delivery rocket launches are about 1/10th the price of LM, Boeing etc IIRC. And I don't think his teams ever have time for coffee so no machines needed 😉 Richard

Here's a useful chart of equivalent drill sizes ...https://vermontamerican.com/drill-bit-decimal-equivalency-chart/ There's four columns - Letter/Number, Metric, Inches (in decimals), MM (in decimals). The Letter/Number column also switches to fractional inches (in 1/64ths) as required. The pocket sized Zeus booklet (UK only?) contains all that info and much more eg thread info .... https://www.amazon.co.uk/RDGTOOLS-ZEUS-CHART-LATEST-REVISION/dp/B00S9SVESM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=zeus+book&qid=1607602520&sr=8-1 When I was much younger, HSS drills seemed to last longer. These days, most of the cheap twist drills I buy from Amazon are junk - particularly the sub 1 mm ones ...they are fragile and the 'cut chisel edge' is often way off centre .... https://ruko.de/en/blog/eight-characteristics-of-a-twist-drill However they are 'good enough' for general work around the house and some hobbies. SKF & Dormer, Presto and Osborn were good makes back in the day. But we are now in the 'disposable' age so fewer and fewer products are made/expected to last too long. I'd be curious to know what drill manufacturers supply NASA and SpaceX ...those guys will demand the best quality. Richard

Bob, Thanks for the info and the links. The Brodart's video is pretty much what I did with my 'plastic bag' solution, but not as professionally. I might still order a roll of the Brodart's or similar material for protecting my books...from what you say you get plenty in a roll so it lasts a long time and the larger size can be cut down for smaller books. These days I tend to order the Kindle version of books since I can read them on multiple devices, they take up no space and are (usually) slightly cheaper. But real books are still, in my mind, more easy to flick through, bookmark and just more readable. Thanks again, Richard Edit: Bob, just read your 2nd post and Brodart does seem the way to go, long term.

Jack, and everyone who responded, thank you. It does help to discuss things, so I seem to have solved my issue by using a soft polythene bag...see below. Unfortunately, a previous owner had tried to fix the dust cover with Sellotape which has led to wrinkles in the cover and discolourisation. But my main objective was to preserve the picture in the front and the information contained in the two leaves, and that has been achieved at the moment...50 yrs down the line who knows ;-). Thanks, Richard

Roger, There are acid free archival tapes and glues that claim to be reversible. Look for them on Amazon. I've browsed those. I'm still a bit concerned about sticking anything to the old cover since I think the 'protection' will be stiffer and force the dust cover to stretch to take the shape of the protection. I'm now tending towards making my own protective cover using large, soft, clear polythene bags I already have. I don't know how acid free they are. I'll post any results on here. Thanks for your input, Richard

Wayne, I've been to the local library a few times and can visualise what they use. It tends to be heavy duty, hard'ish clear plastic since the library books do get a lot of handling. I'm not sure this particular dust cover could cope with the rigidity of the library covers. But I'll have a think about it and thanks for the suggestion. Richard

Hi all, I've received my 2nd hand copy of 'Sailing Drifters by Edgar J. March'. The book itself is in good condition and the images and photographs inside are very clear. Only issue is that the dust cover (originally 25cm x 57cm) has seen better days and I'd like to protect it from further wear and tear. I don't want to glue clear plastic sheets to the dust cover since that is a bit too irreversible. What I'd like to do is source is a thin, flexible, clear plastic 'wallet' that the dust cover sides in to and can then be put back on the book, if such a thing exists. But a sleeve might increase the 'height' of the book where the sleeve's welded edges are, so maybe some non-adhesive film from Amazon might be a better choice? ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Herma-7388-Book-Cover-Colourless/dp/B0007OEAS2/ref=pd_sbs_229_5/258-7486433-7675807?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0007OEAS2&pd_rd_r=ace6a896-5de5-44fd-ba89-2c6014916212&pd_rd_w=fa5v2&pd_rd_wg=zn3Ln&pf_rd_p=2304238d-df78-4b25-a9a0-b27dc7bd722e&pf_rd_r=5622YCXDNSKQ70EHNXG3&refRID=5622YCXDNSKQ70EHNXG3&th=1 I'll keep looking, but in the meantime if anyone knows of a good way to protect old dust sleeves please feel free to jump in. Thanks, Richard Edit: Just seen this ... £13 KPC Book Protection CSR03300025U 330mm x 25m Clearsleeve Roll .... https://www.amazon.co.uk/330mm-x-25m-Clearsleeve-Roll/dp/B07KWW2F3G/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=book+dust+jacket+protective+cover&qid=1607537243&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sr=8-3 ...I think it may do the trick. It increases the book price by over 1/3rd but I think it would be worth it to extend the life of the dust cover.

Lady Eleanor has at last been allocated a port from which she will sail... it is Leith, on the north side of Edinburgh. Half of my family originally hails from Leith so it is only fitting that is where she is based. And how my Grandad, who worked at the port, might have seen a pic of her... Richard

Erik, I think we've now been reading the same websites 😉 ... and similarly thinking that Blue Ensign is the man for the job when it comes to bashing Chris' new Lugger! As an aside, I've just received my 'Sailing Drifters by Edgar March'. It looks in good condition but will remain in the 'isolation ward' (shed) for a few days before I handle it. Richard

Bruce, Indeed, a very interesting read. If the study of written documents and that of excavated objects have their special difficulties and limitations, the interpretation of pictured records, forming a third division of historical research, also offers scope for philological and archaeological knowledge, as well as wide experience and some psychological sense. We may ask then what measure of truth can be reached in this third field, and particularly in that realm which is just now claiming special attention—the precise valuation of such scenes as illuminate the international relations of Egypt in the imperial period. I'm only part way through it (lunch time reading ) and already I realise why there are so many references to old paintings, pottery etc on this website.... sometimes they are the only reference materials available. Also, I hadn't appreciated the significance of the invention of SCUBA gear during WWII had on inspecting ancient ships lying on the ocean/river floor. Thanks, Richard

'Lugger'...nice one. Seems luggers were also used around the UK and France, sometimes for smuggling. Apparently Fifies and Zulus can be classified as luggers?...but I'm only reading this on the web just now and am no expert at all. Here's another interesting website .... https://intheboatshed.net/2008/10/23/spirit-of-mystery-crew-set-sail-for-australia-without-their-underpants/ ... including an Oz lugger adventure. Richard

Erik, Yeah, I like Vanguard's fishing boats...I secretly hope Chris adds to his line up...or maybe a tug or two? But I suppose tugs aren't sail driven so maybe not. Yup, I like the smaller size and bare functionality of working boats. As for timberheads, when I first saw all those tiny bits of wood in my Fifie's box I wasn't looking forward to fitting them...but after attaching a few it got strangely satisfying. Can't remember if I used PVA or CA. Your Isabella is taking shape very nicely and very cleanly....an enjoyable build to watch...thanks. Richard

I've noticed at the bow and stern the bulwarks 'swoop' upwards which means that 4x plank widths will not be enough. Have I fitted the bulwarks incorrectly at the ship's ends?.... and how do I remedy this? ....I can always put in some 'stealers'...or sand down the bulwarks' height...hmm. Ah, I've just noticed on the .pdf version of the manual (pg 18), if I zoom in, there is a short tapered length of (5th row) planking added at the bow, and a longer length added at the stern which is then sanded (or cut) to follow the line of the upwards swoop of the bulwark. All is good 🙂 Richard

Hi all, Well it's been a couple of weeks since my last update, mostly concentrating on hull planking and playing with new toys. Below - I eventually got the first layer of hull planking to a vaguely acceptable profile and then planked the stern area. A bit more sanding still required. Test fitting a 2nd layer plank to see what final sanding was still required for the first layer. Below- 4x second layer planks glued. And a new toy making it's first appearance. I think I have managed to use the hot iron to create curves in two planes, plus a twist at the bow and stern ends of the plank...but don't quote me on that 😉 2nd layer planking all on. Now for the tidying up of it and sanding. The final planking is starting to look a bit more shipshape...from a distance. Cutting through the base of the bulkhead tabs prior to twisting them off. Even a 2mm deep cut is enough to encourage the tab to snap off at deck level rather than half way up. I have a couple of Zona razor saws...one came with some extra blades which included a pseudo flush cutter. Make sure the knurled locknut is topside to let the saw lie as flat as possible. I also used one of my small Veritas chisels to get the tabs flush with the deck. Laser engraved deck fitted and glued in position. It pretty much dropped straight in to position with only some light persuasion at the stern end with a 1/8" screwdriver blade to find it's proper rest position. Inner bulwark planks being fitted. I used continuous planks rather than two halves...it seemed to work fine. I had pre-painted the planks in the shed the evening before. I've fitted two full length planks each side. For the 3rd layer I will use short lengths of plank (which will leave all the hole positions revealed) then revert back to a full length plank for the 4th and final plank. Then trim out the holes. I've noticed at the bow and stern the bulwarks 'swoop' upwards which means that 4x plank widths will not be enough. Have I fitted the bulwarks incorrectly at the ship's ends?.... and how do I remedy this? ....I can always put in some 'stealers'...or sand down the bulwarks' height...hmm. Ah well, that's it for this fortnight....most of the time has been spent on hull planking...glad it's finished. If only the rigging wasn't blocking the light at the end of the tunnel the outlook would be quite sunny 😉 But I chose Flirt to improve my skills so I can't complain. See you all soon, Richard

The submarine looks different, interesting and you have done a fine job on the build. It is now added to my Wishlist 😉 Regards, Richard

Welcome Vladislav. Looking forward to seeing your steam cutter being built. Regards, Richard

The amazing details just keep coming...wonderful stuff. luggers the size of Muirneag carried around 70 nets, each about 600 square yards I had read somewhere previously that the nets extended for about two miles. But '70 nets' has made me focus on what that means to the men onboard who would have to clear the nets of fish ('redding') when they were hauled in. Can you imagine the effort and hours it would take to hand pick the herring out of the nets as they arrived on deck? The crew deserved every penny they got. Richard