AnobiumPunctatum
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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum
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Fantastic.
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Hartelijk bedankt voor de mooie presentatie van je model. Thank you very much for the beautiful presentation of your model.
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If I look to your frame I am afraid that you do not have enough meet, if you grind the whole structure. If I cut the pieces out, I look that I see always a little white paper on the outside of a frame. With this you have always enough room to equal small but normal tolerancies
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I don’t think so. There is also a lot of support for you there. The description of how you make and prepare your gratings shows again what I mean in my last post. I can prepare the gratings with my small CNC-mill and build the jig following your really good description. Thanks very much.
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It woul be a lot of fun to make a build log of your kit there. I love your ideas and how open you share your knowledge. Without this I was not able to finish the frame design for my Alert. I also learned a lot to continue with my Sloop Fly. Thanks for that.
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Have a look at the wood grain for the chocks. In your pictures it has the wrong direction. You should turn the template by 90 degrees.
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I own a small CNC. What has changed is the precision for cutting out parts. So you begin to think about problems, which you not have, if you cut out parts manually. The model is further build by the model builder. The quality depends further on the knowledge and experience of the builder. I prepare my parts directly from my own reconstruction with the CNC. By all the precision It is not possible for me to build my model in the quality you are showing here. I simply love it. I do not like competitions for my hobby and will never participate in one.
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Micha, Düsseldorf is close where I live. I thought that also the Skuldelev kit was in 1/25 and has the same skale as the Oseberg kit. The 5 Skuldelev ships as models were a long time a dream. But now I am more interested in English Ship Sloops of the late 18th century.
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- Roar Ege
- Billing Boats
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The Skuldelev ship shows the same ship as the Roar Ege. Skuldelev 3 is the original wreck, which they found and preserved. Roar Ege is a replica which they have build in the 80th of the last century (if I remember right) This kit was my first wooden kit ever as I was a child. You have to cut each plank with a saw. Now the same kit is lying in my stash and waiting. Perhaps one day I find the time to build the model again.
- 141 replies
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- Roar Ege
- Billing Boats
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Thanks for the information. I fully understand your motivation not to make the knees
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It is looking really nice. One question: I miss the different knees, especially where the guns are situated. David has shown them in his drawings. Why do you have omitted them?
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I don't think so. In my opinion is the purpose of the drawing to show the differences between the standard frameing sheme (doulble frame followed by two single frames) and the sheme which was used for Kingfisher in the midship area. Interesting is also the triple frame midships.
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Ah, the midship frames from Kingfisher. For the first. Ships of the class the frameing design, which was introduced with Cygnet is not correct. I am busy with another Swan Class Fly. For this ship the Cygnet design is with some small adjustments possible.
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Redoing Oseberg
AnobiumPunctatum replied to KrisWood's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Hi Kris, I am really happy that you continue with your reconstruction of ths beautyful viking ship. I will follow as in the last years with great interest. -
This looks like a very promising start. I will follow with great interest.
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If I see your new kit and some frome CAF and other manufacturers I asked myself why I started scratch building. Really wonderful with a lot of innovative ideas.
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This is looking really really good.
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Ship Ribbing with CAD?
AnobiumPunctatum replied to Sanjith_D's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I disagree with your meaning, @Dr PR . I have reconstructed until know 3 different ships in 2D and for the first one most of the frames build following my 2D drawings. Everything is fitting really well. I also checked my 2D reconstruction with 3D models with the help of a colleague and there are also no waves. For construction in 2D it is really important to check the hull with buttock and horizontal lines. If you forget the buttock line it can produce waves. I am in the moment busy with the frame drawings for the sloop Fly and I am quite sure that the hull will also be smooth. For my CNC I give later a few tens of a millimeter to allow some tolerances during the build. These are the biggest inaccuracies. -
As the weather has been nice over the last two weeks, I've swapped my little shipyard for my bike. As a result, I haven't got as far as I had planned. As I wrote in the last part, I want to try a different technique for the after deadwood, especially to avoid milling on both sides. Firstly, the individual components of the deadwood are milled once with the correct side and once mirrored. In order to be able to glue the two sides together later, recesses are milled into which fitting pieces are glued before gluing them together. The next picture shows the components removed from the board and trimmed. Before gluing them together, a few small curves that inevitably result from the milling cutter must be removed. I do this with my little Proxxon. The last picture shows the individual components after gluing them together. A weak point became apparent when machining the parts. The direction of the wood grain of the tabs, which are used to position the finished component on the keel, follows the overall part. It would have been better to mill the tabs separately and rotate the grain by 90°. This would have made the components much less susceptible to breakage. In the next part of the report, both sides of the deadwood parts will be milled and the deadwood glued together.
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Thank you, Chuck and all others for the Likes. I hope that I can finish the aft deadwood this weekend.
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The first component for the backbone of the Alert is the Fore Deadwood. This was milled from a piece of boxwood. Even though I am very happy with the finished part, I will use a different technique for the aft deadwood. Before I could hold the finished part in my hands, I had a few failed attempts. With a much more complicated component, this method is unlikely to work satisfactorily.
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In Europe the first choice for builing models is pear wood. There are some compnies in the markt to buy the timber.
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This looks like a very promising start and interesting build. I will follow you with great interest
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