Danstream

Very nice work. It will be a head turner when finished. 

Dan

Good repair on the diagonals of the boom. I agree with your decision to go on OOB ... life is too short ... 😁

By the way, the tubes of the Revell one looks thinner.

Cheers,

Dan

You got quite a challenge here. I agree with you for not sacrificing another kit just to get the boom out of it. I know that some modelers source two kits to get at the end only one model, but I do not like this, perhaps I lived too long in Holland and I developed a sense for avoiding wasting things.

Another possibility could be to look for Evergreen half round rods, which I know they have in their catalogue, to complete the the half rods of the Revell boom. However I recognize that this might be a rather difficult one, because you have to be lucky to find the right diameter and then anyway you will have to go through a lot of sanding to hide the joints.

Then there is what Ken suggested, i.e. try to scratch it from brass rods. In this case, you would have the opportunity to build it with the appropriate diameter. Should I try it, I would try to build it like the Italeri parts, building first the soldering jigs trimmed on the Italeri parts. But this would be really a challenge for me. I wouldn't know if I would be successful in soldering truss nodes where 3 or 4 rod ends are coming together. 

These difficulties are one of the reasons which kept me away from building a model of this machine, which I like a lot. In fact, when I was a kid, one of my favorite TV series which I tremendously loved and which I still remember was 'Whirlbirds' which was broadcasted in Italy, where I grew up, in the mid 60s, duly dubbed in italian, of course 😁.

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0050077/?ref_=ext_shr_lnk

In conclusion, unfortunately, I do not have any better idea to suggest at this moment, and for the Revell kit, I am stuck with building it OOB.

Kind regards,

Dan

On 1/10/2022 at 11:40 AM, Edwardkenway said:

Excellent job Dan, it looks great, I like the idea of the engine not fitted, otherwise the detail of it would be unseen😉

Thank you for your words. Actually, the engine lacks some important details, but it was fun to work with and it gave me the opportunity to try some new things with the metallic acrylic.

2 hours ago, FriedClams said:

Congratulations Dan on a fine model.  Beautiful work on the color rendering - I particularly like the underside oil washing.  Very nice.

Thanks Gary, I am glad you like the result. The underside turned out OK thanks to the oil washing and also to the marbling pre-shading, It was nice to try these techniques that make uniform surfaces more interesting.

Greetings to all, to the next build,

Dan

OK, nice job with the instrument columns.

Dan

@Old Collingwood, thanks for your note, I know little about Soviet planes (I did some readings within the frame of this build) but as you said, it looks the part sufficiently also in my view.

@popeye the sailor, thank you Denis very much for your super kind words, happy that you find the camo style appropriate! 

Kind regards,

Dan

Caught up and following you mate.

Dan.

Thanks to @ccoyle, @lmagna, @Egilman, @king derelict, @CDW, @GrandpaPhil, @Canute for your kind comments and thanks for all the 'likes'. Thinking of what could be next.

Cheers,

Dan.

20 hours ago, Egilman said:

Excellent build Dan, I think the soft edges look perfect for a field applied camo...

Thank you for trying to find a positive side to it! 😉

Mikoyan-Gurevich MIG 15 Bis

Red 40 - Nikolay Shkodin, 1953

(Trumpeter 1:48)

Hereinafter the pictures of my completed model of this Soviet fighter. The build presented few fitting issues, but at the end I am pleased with the result. I chose not to install the jet engine inside the rear fuselage and to display it next to the aircraft. I used aftermarket seatbelt, instrument panel and resin main wheels for increased detailing.

The Jet engine Klimov-vk1 is fairly reproduced for this scale and, as said, I display it on a scratch build static stand.

The model was finished with Tamiya acrylic colors mixes and Vallejo metallic for the metallic finished parts. I tried the camouflage bands by spraying them free-hand to obtain feathered demarcations. However, perhaps the effect that I obtained is a bit out of scale.

I obtained the 2 x 23 mm gun muzzles by aluminium tubes, while the muzzle of the 37 mm cannon is an Eduard replacement.

I modified the oversimplified pilot seat to better reproduce the type used at the time of this aircraft.

The panel lines were obtained by oil colors washes. Other small stains were made with watercolor pencils.

I found this aircraft rather interesting to build and I hope you like my final pictures. The complete build log is reported in the above pages. I would like to thanks all those that followed my long build and especially those that have provided comments and suggestions.

Best regards,

Dan

Hi all, being domestic commitments for the festivities over, these are the really last pictures of the last missing bits. The engine was completed and put on its finished stand:

Clearly, there is no claim for accuracy, being the added wiring and tubing is just an over simplification and its purpose was just to convey the impression of the real thing.

Finally, the wire aerial, although it is barely visible in this picture:

Next, canopy and final pictures.

Thanks for following,

Dan.

@king derelict thanks for your clarification about the stand. I am glad that you find it adequately reproducing something realistic, I will pose it next to the aircraft.

Best regards,

Dan.

As said in an another post of yours, this interior looks very nice.

Greetings,

Dan.

Javlin, this interior looks very carefully and nicely assembled and finished. About the weathering, beside what Egilman said, i.e. any state must have occurred in the life of a vehicle, including the state when it was new, if you want to apply oil colors or pre-prepared washes, do not forget to gloss the surfaces first with a gloss paint which must be based on a different solvent than the wash. But probably you already know that.

Greetings,

Dan.

Hi all,

I wrote that my post was the last one, but actually, I am still posting a WIP for the engine stand which I scratch built blending various configurations posted above by @Egilman. Clearly, the comparison with the workshop equipment built by Gary in its diorama is intimidating, at any rate that's mine:

I built that from plastic card and evergreen profiles. This is how it is supposed to look with the engine temporarily posed on it:

I am afraid this is not a proper workshop stand, but rather one similar to the ones used for static display of the engine, but I didn't feel to embark a more complex design. This is it after a coat of color and brown staining:

Now, the engine needs to be refined a bit more and some wiring added.

Greetings to all,

Dan

Dear all,

Thanks for all the likes and for following. About the external loads, I always tend to omit them, but I can also see Ken's point. Sometimes, I am attracted by a model by seeing the unbelievable quantity of loads the it carries under its wings. This is a bit part of your 'philosophy' (what a big word) of the hobby. Personally, I am often more interested in representing an aircraft perhaps isolated from its context, others might want to pick more the aspects or a particular moment of its operational life. Surely, I imagine there must be always discussions going on between the aerodynamic engineering department and the operation and sales departments 🙂!

Following Ken's kind message, I also wish all of you and the ones you love a Merry Christmas and a healthy and peaceful New Year.

Dan.

Here the magic starts again. I am curious to see how the complex Sptfire surfaces are resolved this time. In particular, in the real plane, forming the fairing of the wing leading edge was apparently a challenge because of its double curvature.

Cheers,

Dan.

Hi, 

The last missing bits always take more time than anticipated, but eventually they went into place. The pitot tube was replaced by one which I made out of metallic micro-tubes:

The airbrakes with their oleo jacks. The jacks are rally awful, but I did not have the patience to replace them, so I left the ones OOB:

The main landing gear completed with the equally awful OOB oleo jacks:

Now last touch ups, then the wire antenna and the canopy are the last details to be mounted. I prepared the drop tanks, but at the end, I like the model better without them. Hence, the next installment will be the conclusive one with proper pictures, but not before I scratch build the trolley for the engine.

See you next time,

Dan.

I am still looking for my jaw which dropped when I saw these pictures and in particular the last one with your spectacles. Fantastic result, moreover, it was also greatly entertaining to follow step by step your build. Each combination of lightning conveys a different mood and I cannot decide which one I prefer.

Cannot imagine what would be next,

congratulations,

Dan.

After long time, a very small step about the antennae (or antennas?). I added a pin to the antenna mast made with a metallic wire. I also made a blade antenna made by hammering flat a brass rod and another short one made with small brass tube. These will replace the fiddly plastic parts.

Here the antennas are inserted and glued:

Now the metallic parts needs to be primed and then painted.

Best regards,

Dan.

Your Tiger Moth is truly awesome, Chris! The level of detail is unbelievable. I couldn't have never imagined that that was possible with a paper model. Every day I learn something.

Congrats,

Dan.

4 hours ago, lmagna said:

I have always wondered about the flattening of tires on aircraft especially more modern ones. All of the aircraft I have seen(Not really that many in real life) have very high tire inflation rates and don't seem to squish all that much.  I have not made a study of it, just commenting.

Lou, I think that you are generally correct. Jets operating from tarmac runways have a high pressure tires and on ground you can see only a very small footprint. For those, I omit the lateral bulging that can be obtained by heating the plastic, as Gary said, but I just file a bit the wheel where it contacts the ground. This eliminate the 'tiptoe' appearence given by a wheel that touches just on one spot, which does not happens in reality.

For aircraft intended to operate from grass, the tire pressure is lower and a bit more pronounced effect might be appropriate. However, I am not concerned with these subtle differences and I just file a bit the tires in all cases.

Dan

22 hours ago, FriedClams said:

Did you put the flats on the tires or did it come molded like that?

Hi Gary, the wheels are a resin aftermarket from Eduard and they came already flattened. Yes, it is a nice feature which I often add also to items OOB to give an otherwise round wheel the impression of carrying some weight. In addition, in this case, the flat portion of the tire is also functional to maintain the precarious equilibrium that I mentioned for this model. Believe it or not, with round wheels, the model would sit on its tail 🤔.

Dan

11 hours ago, Javlin said:

Dan your panel accents are working very well Sir!!

Thank you for your comment, Sir! 🙂

Lines on the airframe (which were done with tube oil colors) came out OK, but it could be better. Otherwise, yes, I use the the Tamiya panel line accent (black and brown) quite often to highlight details and they are quite handy to use.

Best regards,

Dan.

Lovely interior. Very, very stilish car. I wouldn't see myself out of place driving that car 🙂.

Yes, scribing a model is always a chore.

Great model,

Dan.