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BANYAN

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  1. BANYAN
    Wales and Anchor Lining The wales were glued to the first layer of hull planking before applying the second layer. I used continuous run planks of the appropriate thickness which I butt jointed. I do not think that the owners/builders of a collier would have expended money on the Admiralty preferred anchor stock joinery. As the wales were to be painted, I did was not overly concerned with the joinery; a good sand and coat of paint hid most of my poor quality joints . The anchor lining and bolster were applied over the second layer planking and sanded down to be flush with the thickness of the wales. The side view of plans and drawings provided with the kit are very misleading as this feature is, by the nature of a 2D drawing, shown flattened or fore-shortened as this feature is located at the start of the curvature of the hull. As such, the drawings do not truly reflect the actual curve imposed to these strakes. To achieve the positioning and sweep of these planks, I temporarily fitted the anchor where it would ride when hoisted in and lashed to the fish davit; I then let the anchor swing through its path watching the end of the flukes as it swung after it would have been released from the davit to hang from the cathead.
  2. BANYAN
    Hull Planking The planking timber supplied in the kit (limewood) was used for the first layer, and Sapele (Entandrophragma Cylindricum) which is in the Mahogany family/genus, was used for the veneer second layer (5mm wide strips). I decided to use a 4-butt shift planking pattern which have been aligned to fall on the closest frame (estimated only). The darker colour showing below the wale is the fortunate result of a failed experiment in which I had attempted to simulate the tar based 'brown stuff' used on Endeavour as a protective layer against 'worm'. I tried a bitumen based coating applied to car bottoms (anti-rust) which resulted in a great and authentic looking bottom. However, with time and a little hot weather, it soon became apparent this was a major error as the bitumen based coating started to melt. After scraping it back and re-sanding it, the bitumen that had soaked into the wood and crevices gave it a very nice look. After some sanding and a coat of Testor's DullCote, it came up quite nicely. I decided not to simulate the trennels in the side planking as it made the model look a bit busy, and most would have been covered by paint anyway.
  3. BANYAN
    Constructing the Hull Unfortunately I did not keep any of my photographs taken during the construction of the skeleton of the hull; the hull is shown here with both planking layers completed. The backbone and bulkheads were plywood but I found them to a good fit with no warping which was a real bonus. I filled the space between forward bulkheads with balsa fillers which I then shaped as part of the fairing process. A valuable lesson learned here was to seal the balsa with a diluted PVA solution as the glue I applied to the planks was being rapidly absorbed and not bonding to the planks. I also fitted pine blocks to either side of the backbone at the points where the masts would be fitted to provide greater strength when I drilled the mast holes later.
  4. BANYAN
    Other Builds While completing this build, I have also been diverted with some other interesting builds along the way. Amongst these are having made a start on Chuck’s Syren and his Longboat. I have also completed a Battle Station (based on Russ’ plans) - see here
  5. BANYAN
    The Builder's Yard (Workshop) I originally started building this model in a spare room in the house. I have since built a workshop (aand many more "honey please do! small jobs) which have contributed to the extended model build time. However, finally, I can concentrate on the build!
  6. BANYAN
    I am building Endeavour to represent her in her most likely configuration in 1768 (i.e. the converted collier, Earl of Pembroke, fresh out of the dockyard at the start of her epic journey). I have been using the AOTS “Captain Cook’s Endeavour” (revised edition) by Karl Marquardt as my primary reference, supplemented with Ray Parkin’s 2 volume “H.M. Bark Endeavour: Her Place in Australian History”, and over 100 photos I took while visiting the replica ship. I have also purchased a copy of Endeavour's Ship's Log from the NMM in the hope of extracting just that extra bit of information. It is interesting to read this Log kept in Cook’s own hand and achieve some sense/feeling of being there while reading it. (Used with kind permission of author)
  7. BANYAN
    Build Background I won’t provide a historical background for the Endeavour as it is an extremely well known ship and modelled extensively. My decision to build Endeavour was based on my desire to model ships that were involved with the charting and exploration of the Australian coastline; or, had a major influence on Australian History. All going well, I hope to include the following ships in my bucket list: HMS Investigator of Mathew Flinders fame (research well underway); HMS Mermaid (Cutter) and Tom Thumb of Bass and Flinders Fame. Additionally, I am also researching the HMCSS Victoria, which was part of the Victorian Colonial Navy, and a unique ship due to its era and construction. I started building Endeavour in late 2006 and as you can see in the following photos, I have managed some progress, but nowhere near the speed at which I would have liked. The build is based on the Artesania Latina (AL) kit; however, I have only used the backbone, bulkheads, planking strips and some of the kit's accessories/materials, the rest of the kit materials went into the bin J. I selected the AL kit as the base for my model as the scale is good for display and I was reliably advised that the kit’s hull dimensions were reasonably accurate. (AL graphic from the kit box)
  8. BANYAN
    Hi All, I have been reluctant to create a build-log as with my paying job taking up a lot of my time, the updates have been, and will continue to be irregular at times, readers might think the build dead. However, I have been convinced to create a log so here goes. I have been slowly building (over the past seven years) my heavily bashed HM Bark Endeavour at scale 1:60 - Model length 31-2/2"/ height 25". This is my first major build and I am still learning as I go. I found I rapidly became disappointed with the quality of the materials and the poor instructions of the kit and decided to considerably modify it. Along the way I have also experimented and learned many valuable lessons for future builds. I have also managed to build a rope serving device and establish my tools and wood supplies for future builds (including my 'man cave'). Index Build Background The Builders Yard My Other Builds Hull Construction Hull Planking Wales and Anchor Lining Paint Scheme Deck Planking Ports and Hull Fixtures Chains and Channels Rudder Stern Work Lantern Aft Deck Furniture Binnacle Capstan Pumps and Bitts Boats - Longboat Boats - Pinnace Boat Stowage Armaments Windlass Bellfry Cathead, Fish Davit and Boomkins Anchors Bow Sprit and Jib Boom Lower Masts Tops Upper Masts
  9. BANYAN
    Topic Reconstruction Folks, the earlier posts are a rebuild of my original log in MSW 1.0. It does not contain any of the background chat or questions asked, so if you recall any questions that may continue to be useful please ask away again. Many thanks. Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Geez, you do like to set me a challenge Greg and just when I thought I might beat you in catching up with the build-log The masts look great. I am about to add all the additional furniture and fittings to mine. What did you use as your main reference as to what cleats etc went where? cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Great to see you repost all of the log Jason, she's coming along nicely. You'll be onto yopr next build before you know it cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Glad you reposted this build Russ, it is a great little first-up scratch builders project as you say. One positive or advantage of the site rebuild is the opportunity to revisit all these great builds as they are reposted. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Great to see the log back Chuck. This is a very fine example of 'boat' building based on a very intyeresting design and an example of very precise joinery. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi Robbyn, It is also worth considering the overlap/alignment of the first and second layers. If it is possible, it is preferable to overlap the first and second layer longitudinal joints (that is, not have them coincident). This provides additional strength and assists in stopping the hull joints opening if for any rreason they become wet (just ask a couple of members hows their models were accidently saturated by water leaks and the like) or in humid.hot climates. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Glad to see you repost this great build mate. A quick question. How do you fit the round hole of the cap to the topmast (place the topmast into this hole)? I am building the caps for my Endeavour and find that with the 6 sided beveled conical piece at the top I simply cannot slide it through and I have had to cut the calp[s in two longitudinally. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Hi Mark, I have also used one for some time, and as you say, very useful within its limitations - Even with a mitre box I find it difficult to get nice straight cuts for planks. This link takes you to an article in the MSD which shows some interesting modifcations. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    You're ahead of me Greg, I am still rebuilding mine in a word file to allow quicker rebuild. I had forgotten your "porcupine" hull cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Slog, Mate, looking good and don't worry - I have been on mine since 2006 cheers Pat

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