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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Outstanding Druxey - great detail at that scale. cheers Pat
  2. Oops, sorry mate just checked myself, it has disappeared. i will get it re-instated. I'll send you a PM in the meantime cheers Pat
  3. Chris, there is an article in the database that should help you a bit. cheers Pat
  4. She looks great Ron, end is in sight for you now cheers Pat
  5. It's just that you are being honest and posting your 'pick-ups' - many others don't but you can bet we all make them cheers Pat
  6. Chris I used liquid gloss (two part) which you can get at Spotlight (i think they still have it). Are you doing the central one as a 'false window'? - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/400-hmb-endeavour-by-banyan-al-160-circa-1768/?p=4039 cheers Pat
  7. Great work Keith, coming along very nicely. Doing that small scale decoration must be giving you a headache or two huh? cheers Pat
  8. Thanks Bob, happy with their use, just did not recognise it at first I'll have a look at that video as paul has some interesting stuff. cheers Pat
  9. An update, recently went to AFT (post 4) only to find that they had shut down - yet another timber source gone cheers Pat
  10. Thanks Rick and Gaetan - will need to find one cheers Pat
  11. Great recovery Ulises, remember the alcohol is for medicinal purposes ..... cheers Pat
  12. Ah, thats the beastie - many thanks Gaetan. My source is looking around his stuff to see if the block is there. cheers Pat
  13. Oh the joys of modelling Ulises - Good luck with the fix, seems you have a solution inmind. cheers Pat
  14. Exceptional, the model looks magnificent and very much enhanced with the very beautifully carved figurehead Igor. cheers Pat
  15. Ahhh! that makes sense, thanks Arthur. cheers Pat
  16. Hi Ben, you'll have to start feeding that passenger soon, they're nothing but a bag of boners Great to see you've sorted the electrics. A question though. i don't recall if this will be a floating/working model. If so, how will you get the oars to lift out of the water on the forward stroke so that it doesn't counteract the after stroke (propelling forward)? If it is a working static, won't be an issue. I am sure you have some clever system worked out with Arthur. cheers Pat
  17. looking very good there Russ; those sails have some very fiddly detail - must have been an 'interesting' task cheers Pat
  18. Beautiful work Druxey, the real hint of your resolve for top quality was highlighted in an earlier post about the tholes where you made almost three times as many as you needed so that you could select only the best. This discipline, and the lesson for us mere apprentices, is only reinforced with the redo rather than trim to size of the frieze. cheers Pat
  19. A fortune maybe Mark, but then how would you learn to be a 'master' of your trade/craft The rudder looks great and appears to sit hang nicely against the stern post cheers Pat
  20. Nice to see you started Alan; this should be a great model (if you survive the scares ) cheers Pat
  21. Looking really trim John; hope the health is back to normal for you soonest. Best wishes Pat
  22. Some really great progress. That is a very interesting technique you are employing with the perspex and it was great to see it live at our last meeting. cheers Pat
  23. A couple of very nicely detailed ships there Greg; you'll have a miniature fleet before you know it cheers Pat
  24. Thank you very much Rick, Mark and Bob - appreciate the feedback. I had a thought after I had posted it may have been a scribe due to the two pins; but had not even thought on the missing block Thanks also for the tip on the planes TLC - I will take a look. These look to have been used by a carpenter (based on the wear and tear) with the soles having been trued. that said, I intend to pull them down, clean all parts, resharpen the blades and retrue the soles and the sides of the rebate plane. cheers Pat
  25. Hi all, thanks for looking in and the encouraging words; too many to thank individually, so I will keep this general. WRT stain or painting the yards - I am still not decided. I have found no definitive evidence that they were painted black in that period and remain open to suggestions. I have some time yet to decide as I am contemplating putting furled sails on and I need some time to investigate that also. WRT to the jewellers mitre anvil (THANKS Per) - I believe MicroMark may also have them but please check that they are not a cheaper version. The real thing is made of a very hard metal (I think steel or an alloy) so that you can safely cut or file against the surface. This makes them a little expensive though, but makes the metal work so much easier and cleaner. cheers Pat
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