BANYAN

Mike, the best thing would be to download the rigging size calculator developed by Jim Lad. You simply put in the required info and it pumps out all the info you need. I simply rounded most of these to the nearest full mm and then selected several sizes using the closest fit for the in-betweeners. This is the one by Jim Lad http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php - Just go to the first worksheet (first tab at bottom) and follow-the instruction. Hope that helps cheers Pat

Hi again Mike. I am back at home and have had a chance to check the paperwork and find I need to advise a small change. While both he main and mizzen are raked back; the main is only 3 degrees (87 to the deck), the mizzen as advised. The foremast is perpendicular to the deck/waterline. cheers Pat

Hi Mike, yep those two are. at about 7 degrees aft rake (83 degrees from the deck) according to the kit instructions (AL) which I think were about right but I would need to check the other reference material I have. cheers Pat

That's very nice, neat and well finished rigging Danny. No fuzz at all that I can see (even at macro level)). cheers Pat

That looks great Sharpie; and a working model to boot (well sort of ) When remaking/replacing the winch dowel (axel/spindle) have you tried a much harder grade of wood and ensuring the grain is in the transverse direction ( I expect you have but just in case) - a really hard wood while more difficult t shape may provide the strength you need without oversizing too much? cheers Pat

She's coming along nicely Mark; you'll have the quarter galleries on before you know it cheers Pat

Thanks for the pointer Nigel; I was aware of this site and that White Ensign has shut its doors but I will have to have a better search of LionRoar etc. Of note, it is not the latest Darings (Type 45) I am after but rather the post-WWII Darings (updates of the old Battle Class). I don't know where I am going to find these bits I note L'Arnel have some stuff but their descriptions are poor so I don't know exactly what they offer and they don't have PayPal facilities. Chris; for a while there I thought I was the proverbial jinx - every lugger I served in payed off (After Vampire I posted to Duchess, then Yarra, then the Melbourne ...) I finally made it to the Teflon navy with Darwin cheers Pat

Hello again all - the lure of plastic (well resin anyway) finally got to me and I have plunged into the deep end. I have purchased the OzMods 1:350 resin kit of HMAS Vampire II (Daring Class destroyer) in which I served for several years (1973-76). At least she has been preserved as a Museum piece by the Australian Heritage Fleet (Sydney). For a picture please see: http://www.navy.gov.au/hmas-vampire-ii I wish to detail-up this kit and I am looking for some pointers to aftermarket detailing such as photoetch and gun barrel/turret products for the ship. She was fitted with three dual gun 4.5" QF turrets (QF 4.5-inch Mk I – V), 2 x single 40mm bofors and 2 x twin 40mm bofors. When she fired a broadside, you knew all about it I am building her as fitted post-moderisation but before conversion to the training role so she will also have the triple barrel 'Limbo" ASW mortars aft. I am aiming to paint her as she was during the period I served in her when a lot of her time was spent showing the flag in SE Asia - so a lot of her fiddly-work was painted to make her look the "ants pants" - detail such as bollards and fairleads were painted white (grey again when we returned to Australia. Some of the detail I am looking for are the various davits, boat falls, antennae (DF etc), ship's lighting etc. Many of these will be the same as fitted to contemporary Britsh designed ships of the era (1950-1970). If anyone could please identify potential sources for these aftermarket products / Detail-up kits I would greatly appreciate it. regards Pat

A true work of art mate; and especially more amazing noting the scale you were working at. cheers Pat

That's a 'corker' of an idea (sorry have been resisting for some time - must be silly Monday Good idea to tuck away in the 'useful' ideas catalog - thanks Pat

Hi Mark, sorry to complicate the issue but also take a look at the article re threads for ropemaking in our articles area. Unfortunately, in the research I have done so far (at least here in Australia), many of the thread manufactures do not comply with the general sizing standards. For instance some number 0-100 as smallest to largest, and some vice versa, some use another system all together. Depends on the manufacturer. Also, some manufactures only make the full range of sizes in a limited number of colours - I have found blacks to be most affected with the good quality stuff limited in size range, forcing me to dye the white/ecru. The other part of the equation, depending on the ropewalk you use is whether you wish to maker Right-Hand-Lay (RHL) or Left Hand-Lay (LHL) scale rope. I have found a lot of RHL thread, but very little LHL to use as the start point for RHL (with the design of ropewalk I use); otherwise (as like me) you may need to make up some LHL first, then re make this into RHL. This too will govern the final output (especially consistency if not evenly tensioned each run etc). However, it appears that with some other designs of ropewalk, this is not as problematic. I have also found that anything with any polyester/man-made in it (poly-cotton blends etc) tends to stretch depending how much tension you put on it; this can also change the output size. I have found that 100% cotton (especially Egyptian or long strand) cottons have worked best, and that if they are mercerised (no fuzz) they make better rope with consistent size, little stretch and very little fuzz. As Chuck has also pointed out, minimal tension on completion to 'set' the rope should be all that is required and that only for some thread. Just some food for thought cheers Pat

That looks really good Hornet, no sign of bubbles etc from the two-part mixing and curing? That is the only problem I had with my method using the liquid gloss/water (which may not be flexible also). I'll have to give this stuff a try. Any ideas on what to add to give the slightly cloudy look of glass back then? I have the same problem with the liquid gloss I used - too shiny for that period (personal taste) but this looks easier than doing it with the other stuff. cheers Pat

That my friend is a superb display of skills - simply stunning. cheers Pat

Folks, In his scratch build of HMS Kingfisher, Remco identified a ceramic heat board with pins that he uses as a jig for soldering - see this post for one of its uses http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/18-hms-kingfisher-by-remco-1770-english-14-gun-sloop-pof-148/page-56 The ceramic board and pins are available at: https://www.fohrmann.com/en/modellbau-loetwerkzeug/soldering-plate.html (no commercial ties etc...) I think it is a great idea, however, for Aussies at least, while the price was OK at Euro 25 (about A$37) the asking price for sending it here was Euro60 (can you believe that for such a small and light product)- I queried this but quick as a flash NO response Looking around, I found a very similar product (much cheaper at $A18) at http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/honeycomb-ceramic-solder-board-122mm-80mm-p-2060.html you will need to source the pins elsewhere but I think brass wire of the appropriate diameter (1.5mm in this case) would work? Hope this is of some value to members looking at the various soldering issues and solutions. cheers Pat

I am sorry to say that I haven't but that looks quite interesting. I will have to hunt it down and have a quiet read (sounds like a relaxing Christmas break activity cheers Pat

Welcome aboard Lee; you're off to a very fine start mate. that is some very good joinery you have displayed. cheers Pat

David, try Googling "Scary Sharp" sharpening system. Works generally on the same principle as this tool but will only cost you the price of sandpaper and a honing guide. I went to glass merchant and asked for an off-cut or two of 1/4 inch float glass to use as the flat base. Simply glue the various grades of sandpaper to the glass and away you go! Works a treat, once set up is very quick and easy to use. I still use a very fine wet-stone for honing though. cheers Pat

Well, you seem to have mastered that technique pretty well Rusty. Nice run of planking. cheers Pat

Sam, I found the article by member "Adrift" which I have added some detail to and tidied up. I hope it is of some use to you or others. Admin/ Mods please place this in the Article section if you think it worthwhile. cheers Pat Glazing Ship Windows.pdf

For the glass in my Endeavour build I used a two-part epoxy called 'liquid gloss' (another is called liquid water) which I purchased at a local craft store. The trick is to do it in several layers to build it to the required thickness, and to blow across the top of it after pouring it into the mould (framing in this case) to remove any micro-bubbles. My description is at: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/400-hmb-endeavour-by-banyan-al-160-circa-1768/?p=4039 There was an article on this written by another Member and myself on the site, that incorporated the use of of artists (clear) medium to help with the levelling, but it may have been lost in the 'great crash' of MSW 1 - I will have a dig around my archives (if I remember) and see if I can find it again. Just another way. Pat

I understand the sentiments you express re the greater sense of personal achievement with researching and building ships that are not so well documented Sharpie. I am researching a build for our club (HM Colonial Steam Sloop Victoria); a ship which by pure dumb luck we located the only existing plan (single sheet - waterlines, half breadth and profile but no general arrangements etc) that we are aware of (privately owned). We can locate nothing in our Government records or in the UK (NMM or the Colonial Office) as we have searched high and low. Except for a couple of photographs, a couple of lithographs and the Contract we would not have much to go on. Luckily using the contract we can determine a lot of the fittings of the ship, but it is pure conjecture on their configuration and arrangement A rewarding challenge as it is all coming together nicely. Good luck on the research for this one, I have always had a bit of interest in this era of ship building and very much enjoy novels written around this period of history. cheers Pat

You've been busy Ron, she's coming on nicely. Mate, if not too late, one thing I have learned from experience is not to fit the capping or edge strip to the channels after you fit the deadeyes - just let them rest in the slot temp held in place with some painters or low-tack tape. I glued the strip on and all was fine for many months until I started rigging. When I fitted the shrouds to the deadeyes, a couple of my weaker chainplate joints gave way and I had to remove the edging to repair the chainplates. That proved a little difficult and I was lucky doing any real damage but it was a real m%&*#$@ to sand the edging to align with the top/bottom edges of the outer contours of the channels again. A lesson I have stored away for future builds cheers Pats

Hi Sharpie, an interesting build you have going here; I'll follow with interest. Unfortunately, in this area I know about --- well zilch actually - so I am a bit of a voyeur on this build journey. cheers Pat

So when do you get your 'journeyman' papers Mark - nice bit of work there! cheers Pat

Nice to see that update John, she is coning along great cheers Pat