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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    She's a true little beauty with her 'dress on' mate; those little schooners/luggers certainly had nice lines. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I need a new dictionary - I have run out of superlatives for the quality of work and detail of this beautiful model. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Mark, Tougharts and all; and for the comments Brian, Greg, John and Mike. Once you get the hang of the workflow it goes smoothly enough. The most challenging bit is tapering the hexagonal piece which can easily go so wrong . cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Ok folks, here is the final instalment for today. Having completed the mill work, the remainder is done by hand with a lot of measuring, checking, rechecking - and did I say rechecking . The next photo shows one of my new topmasts (main) with a couple of the offcuts ftom my old topmasts, which shows just how out of scale they were. Some of the shaping I do in a small 'V' block I have now completed what I can for shaping as shown below and the next step will be milling in the slots for the sheathes etc. Thanks for looking in - two down, mizzen topmast next, then the 2 poles for the fore and main. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi again, The following photos show the milling stage (instalment 2). The picture shows my setup and the various steps involved to mill the flats for the square base piece, the flats for the octagon (which is hand tapered later). I think the shots are self-explanatory without further text. Click on the thumbnails for a larger photo/better look. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi folks, the rebuilding process (for the topmasts and poles) has begun. I remembered to take some photos this time and attempted to show the process I use with some hand tools, a lathe and mill. This can all be done by hand as is evidenced in many fine build logs but I find this works for me. This will be done in 4 instalments with the last being the cutting of the sheave holes which will come later (when all topmasts and poles have been produced). I only managed to salvage one new topmast as either the old masts were too thin to apply the square or hexagon shape, or the sheath holes were in the wrong place. It didn't take too long to get back into the swing of things, but at one mast component a day, it will take a wile - so grab a cuppa! (or something stronger if that floats your boat ) I first cut my stock into square dowel. This is then placed in my shooting board ( a 'V' strip of hardwood with a stop at one end) and the stock is roughly rounded using a plane. I then chuck it into my lathe with a free-spinning tail stock chuck and three jaw chuck. I ensure there is ample waste at each end so that I can tightly chuck the ends without having to worry about damaging the stock or coming to close to the end of piece with the turning gouge, files and sandpaper blocks I use to round the stock and turn it to size. This is done a little at a time with constant checking of size etc against the required dimensions.\ Once finished I transfer the work to an indexing tool under the mill which I will show in the next instalment. Cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hey Janos, I'm envious of those gorgeous figureheads you make - let's just call it even cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    The attention and detail you are lavishing on her should result in a very nice planking Mark. Still hangin' there cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Mike did you see the bit at the bottom about entering fractions of an inch for conversion? A bit clumsy but it seems to work? cheers
  10. BANYAN
    Mike, have a look at this one - does exactly what you asked I think? http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm cheers pat
  11. BANYAN
    Well, I have bit the bullet and stripped back the top masts and poles to be 'reengineered' this weekend. Hopefully get it right this time. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Danny, you could install / use a free-standing de-humidifier, but it is a more expensive solution. You can get mini-dehumidifiers for under $100 but a medium will be over $100 - if it works though might be worth it? You would have to try and seal the workshop a bit though I would think? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Danny you are a rigging master - very nice - a very high quality of finish to your rigging! cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Greg, Danny has explained the process far more eloquently than me That is basically the process I (have stumbled on) am using; as I said horses for courses. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Great idea Keith - now that is thinking outside the square (oops sorry you want square don't you ) cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Nice pick up Steve, I wish I had been as diligent Nice work on the shroud whippings - far better than mine. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    HI Dave, many thanks for that but I have the dimensions now that I had to recalculate it all - but I do appreciate the offer. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Keith, Steve and Mike. Sorry Keith - my engineering man is tied up for a while (not with my work either). I still need some adjustments on this as we get to know it better but it is a "nice" tool. Appreciate this feedback re scale errors folks - nice pick up Steve. I made the topmasts and poles some time back in preparation for rigging so no matter what, I would have had to redo them anyway - practice makes perfect they say. I will have to take down the topmast shrouds, but they will be reusable as they will not be shorter I have to find some positives. You can bet your bottom dollar I will not be taking the published scales at face value anymore cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Hi Mike - Very displeased but a valuable lesson learned. You are absolutely right on both counts mate; the printed scale is incorrect - and I did use these and scaled accordingly. I had a discussion with the author this afternoon - he was not aware of this himself and appreciated the feedback. It appears the publishers have rescaled his drawings (which were all 1/4":1') to fit the page but did not provide the correctly adjusted text for the scale. I thought they looked a little too tall. This also explains why the mast caps weren't quite right - I thought it was my joinery. At least I can reuse the topmasts to sand them down to the smaller sizes - using the AL kit 1:1 drawing at least the lower masts and the mizzen are correct (but I will check) . Surprising this has not been reported before. How did you pick up on by by the way? cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Thanks Mike, I wasn't aware of this and I will be very displeased () if I have this wrong - I will double check tonight) cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Russ, John, Slog, Greg and Keith; many thanks for looking in and your interest in my build. Greg, I'll PM separately; thanks for the offer of the article. WRT masts, the way you suggest is the way most people do it. To be totally honest, I made all the bits and then experimented to establish the best way for aligning the deadeyes/doing the shrouds. I then forgot to remove them to do the upper work and I have progressed with building the masts on the model. This has actually been beneficial in some respects but it is probably horses for courses as to your approach. I am lucky in that I can adjust my work table up and down and I have a home built working rest for working on rigging that makes the task easier to do on the model. I'll post a picky of it next update. Keith the duplicator is a self design with some engineering work by a mutual acquaintance. You would need to talk with him cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Another update, but to the workshop more so than Endeavour. A fellow club member has assisted with some of the engineering which has helped greatly. The duplicator (for my Sherline lathe) is an adaption of a design by David Antscherl in his TFFM series. I have yet to try this in fully-fledged anger, but the trials and testing is very pleasing. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hi folks, as promised another small update - slowly getting there. I am now working on the topmasts with only the shrouds on the foretopmast to go at this level. I have also made a temporary cover to act as a dust cover when not working on her. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi again folks, I have applied some of the resin and waiting for it to fully set to see if this is better than a putty option, which from reports I have read sometimes falls out of resin. I will post a full report once it has set. In the meantime I have made a small start on getting rid of excess flash/moulding etc. While looking around the net for ideas etc I came across the following from Hobby Elements (no connections etc) - it works great on resin. I have it set up in my Dremel shaft for that extra bit of flexibility. It is a 3mm shaft so unfortunately does not fit in the dental tool (2.34mm) cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Pete, the helmsman (men in rough weather) stood to the side of the wheel not behind it. Hope this clarifies? cheers Pat

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