BANYAN

Looking great Sharpie - good luck with the completion date cheers Pat

You're making some great progress Mark - far from a 'dead' project The planking looks good and the 'painting' with wood will provide some very nice detail. cheers Pat

Quite the adventure you're having with this build Keith. An enjoyable log to follow. cheers Pat

Once you get going on the rigging there is no stopping you Danny - looking very good. cheers Pat

Those macro shots can be either your best friend (in revealing issues you had not seen) or your worst enemy in revealing issues that really aren't that observable Looks good Keith cheers Pat

Thanks Foxy. I have pretty well found most of what I need now (just some decals which is well underway). I opted for some 3D printed replacement parts and some PE to provide detail. Scale Warships has some great stuff but unfortunately for me, mostly at the wrong scale I am working with. Appreciate the pointer though. cheers Pat

Only too well Chris (something to do with a reptile mostly ) I still have a bosun's call at home (used it on the sleepyhead kids a couple of times. cheers Pat

Can't work without em Vossy; same issue on passing the 50 the pitch and ball seemed to get smaller - I use the same type as Tadeusz with interchangeable lenses (plastic). I have tried some cheap loupes (eBay - China) but I find it difficult to adjust for depth perception when working with them. Welcome to the club and a very long innings. cheers Pat

Great milestone John; especially with the number of interruptions I have caused that planking looks spot on. cheers Pat

Thanks Bogey, these bits are real 'nice' with plenty of detail for the scale and will correct some small errors, and poor definition in the kit. In this post I will try and add some of the thought processes going into the preparation for the building of this kit. As stated earlier, my intention is to try to depict her as she was back in 1973-76 so the biggest alteration will be to remove the classroom modifications and reinstate the Limbo Mk10 mortar, Type 182 towed torpedo decoy and add the correct boats. Unfortunately the ones in the kit look nothing like the real boats. The enhancements are to add the appropriate detail for such things as davits, cranes, RAS equipment, and better define the anchor capstan area on the forecastle John (Jim Lad) has been very helpful in ducking over to the 'bat' to get detail photos and dimensions of parts for us. Thanks again John, very much appreciate that. With the addition of some new decals for the gun barrel safety rings, danger and RADHAZ signs etc, and some PE for rope reels, guard rails etc.; hopefully I will be able to create a more accurate model. The hull is pretty good with just a small gap at the bow area to fill (dry fit assessment only). I am currently struggling with how to do the many upper deck fire hose racks with hydrants. These are going to be very finicky PE folding exercises (micro-origami) I think I will provided some discussion about decisions taken, the detail Bogey has been able to add for me and show you the kit part versus the enhanced detail parts from Bogey via Shapeways 3D printing. The frosted resin prints provide some nice detail, even at this scale. For example, the after castle block now has the properly defined vent intakes which even with well made PE would have been very hard to replicate. These are done in such a way that they have the same effect of 'added' detail so that minimal pre-shading etc will be required for definition when I start painting. I am currently getting the paints organised and Defence Models and Graphics (Australia)have been very helpful in providing some advice. I will provide more complete discussion on this when it is time to spray the first paint. cheers Pat

Very nice planking mate; looks a treat! cheers Pat

Coming along very nicely Dave; looks good. Always good to start with some hand-made jigs and tool setups; especially when the budget doesn't support something more upmarket that is a nice little setup you have contrived. One word of caution with a Dremel based lathe though is that you will have to take things quite easy as you will soon overload it (not a lot of torque) on larger dowels etc, especially if using hardwood. Will work - just go slow! By that I don't mean low rpm, but rather don't try to apply much sanding or cutting pressure. cheers Pat

The build is coming along nicely Keith, and a wealth of information being shared. One small note of caution though - watch the masking tape on the painted lower hull - the longer you leave it there the more likely the gum will adhere to the paint and discolour or mark it. I would consider removing the tape from the paint altogether and mask above the paint line using heavy duty paper or the like to cover the painted area? cheers Pat

Thanks Greg - I was aware of this one as the kit had the wrong flags; I got a replacement set from Float-A-Boat here in Melbourne. cheers and thanks for sharing. Pat

Also try Hobby Tools Australia ( http://www.hobbytools.com.au/ ) whom have these http://www.hobbytools.com.au/drill-bits-sets-and-accessories/ - Melbourne based supplier but ships Australia wide (and International) - just a happy customer cheers Pat

Thanks Kurt, as Druxey says - brilliant find. Now I won't have to put off buying a book because I am not sure if I have it or not. cheers Pat

Hi Alex, If I understand your question correctly, you are asking for recommendations for the type of glue to use. As this is in a resin kit thread, I assume also for resin models? From the research I have done so far (please note this is my first resin build also) I believe CA and two-part epoxy are best (any brands). For gluing large parts I intend to use a 5 minute two-part epoxy after I have created some alignment pins and mating holes prior to setting it up (to reduce the 'fiddle time' required). Have a look at this article for some ideas: http://www.modelwarships.com/features/how-to/resin/resin-howto.html For plastic/styrene I believe you need one of the specialist glues that actually dissolves and 'plastic-welds' the parts. cheers Pat

Nice work Mike; they look great and avoid my errors cheers Pat

Some very nice joinery there mate; a particularly well thought out storage solution that matches the obvious quality of those tools. cheers Pat

Thanks for pointing that out Danny; appreciate you looking in and keeping a weatherly eye. cheers Pat

Wrong word indeed

Looking great Ron; slow but sure progress with good results mate. cheers Pat

Thanks for looking in Dave and Ron - it took me a while to build up the funds for those 'little' toys. However, as shown in ample logs here, and by previous generations of modellers - you don't need the toys to produce great results - it just makes it a little easier (once you work out the workflow). cheers Pat

Hi Graham and a belated welcome to the Endeavour build club The simple answer as to redoing the planks is to ask you a question: can you live with them? You are bound to have some observers comment on it, but the final decisions re aesthetics is up to you. As some form of guidance, I regret some of the minor 'boo-boos' from the earlier stages of my build that I now wish I had redone . A simple way to align your planking is to follow the general rules for spiling/planking (see articles on this site) with one part of the process being marking out the planking lines on the first layer of planking. Use a card strip or a flexible plastic strip on which to mark out your plank widths on the strip. At this stage of my build (and I am still learning a lot) I was not spiling by the rules as such, but instead I started by determining the wale positions, laid them, then planked up and down from that by letting the planks fall naturally where possible (dry fit) and fill the gaps etc etc with stealers / drop planks, and nibbing away any overlap before gluing in place. This means that at the bow etc, it is not a constant 5mm separation (if I recall, these are 5mm strips in this kit), so I was dry fitting the plank on one side, and after establishing where the bottom edge would fall, mark that on the hull and transfer that distance to the other side of the stem and stern whereas, in the middle it was generally an even 5mm spacing. If spiling by the rules, you mark out the planking belts, determine the number of planks and divide the space at each station line by the number of planks to establish the width of the plank at that point. This would allow you to mark out the planking lines before starting. Place the strip on the stem (one side at a time from a good reference point that you can establish - perhaps the top of the wales or such, and having ensured these are level by eye during dry fitting, then use the marks on the ticker strip to transfer the locations of each joint onto your hull. Do this in several vertical locations along the hull and when applying your planks make sure they align with the tick marks - the results should be level planking. good luck Pat

That's an interesting arrangement you have proposed Sharpie, and something like that may very well have worked. Can you lean on any experience from how the Egyptians did it? Also, was it definitely rope or could it have been leather, which if wet can be tensioned considerably when dry? She is coming along nicely and an interesting log to boot cheers Pat