BANYAN
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Jigs for soldering photo etch
BANYAN replied to bluenose2's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
G'day Les. I have found those cheaper 'third hand' devices with plain alligator clips not suited to smaller soldering jobs also. I have invested in the GRS rig which jewellers and the like prefer; not cheap but do a much better job. I think it may have been REMCO that also discussed a soldering block which was about 10cm x 10cm or so, and was honeycombed to accept small brass or steel pins which held smaller pieces in situ and you could apply a naked flame to the joint. Can't find the post at the moment but if I do I'll update this post. cheers Pat -
Wefalck, that is some beautiful workmansip from an obviously talented machinest. Bravo! Pat
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Braver man than me mate; I cut the metal heads off and glued them to the replacement carrick bits (cheating??? ---- nuh ) cheers Pat
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Excellent job there Greg; that detail looks really good - love to see this model in the real world as someimes photos just don't do justice and this looks a really nice model. cheers Pat
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Good job Ron, still doing mine; port side completed today (lower and upper) - now for the other side. cheers Pat
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Mark is probably on the right track, but could I ask where these are in relation to the position of the Cathead? In these ships at that time, some ships had 'whiskers' fitted to the Cathead and these may be related to the lead and securing of the associated rigging? Another option may be that they are the lead and securing for the anchor trip mechanism (on the Cathead) which was commonly fitted during this era. cheers Pat
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Hi Boris; I am also building the AL. My two cents worth: 1. The hull is accurately proportioned and is double planked as per your preference. 2. The brass decorations are a mixed bag. The quarter badges and some scroll/figures are OK but the transom piece and window column scrolls are poor 3. Plans are OK for what they are but the rigging is not accurate for the period or practice (use James Lees and Steel to supplement). I replaced all the rigging materials 4. Instructions are poor but as you are an experienced builder I think you would be OK with them. 5. I scratch built all the upperdeck fittings and equipment using the AOTS (Marquardt), Ray Parkin's book and the replica build as source information. Hope that helps you? cheers Pat
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Possible significant maritime find in England
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Interesting reading; thanks Stephen cheers Pat -
Great idea Danny, you see some exquisite models in museums and often ponder about the internals; a neat way to show this. I know you have just started but any ideas of a full made up mast (no rigging) as a separate item also? cheers Pat
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Ron, there are a couple of free graph paper apps on line (just Google) that allow you to specify spacing (Major and minor units) and set the associated line weights. I can't recal the one I used at the moment but should be easily found. I simple printed off a couple of A4 sheets then uses these as my background template by using hair clips to temp pin the m to the shrouds. You can see what I mean towards the latter posts in my log. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/400-hmb-endeavour-by-banyan-al-160-circa-1768/page-12 cheers Pat
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Hi Ron, I went with 13" actual spacing. Not sure of your scale, but you should be able to sort that - my simple formula is 13 x 25.4 = about 330mm (330.2 actually) then divide by the scale; in my case 1:60 which results in a 5.5mm spacing. 10mm seems to be a bit large unless you are building at a much different scale? cheers Pat
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Hi Andrew and a belated welcome to the Endeavour (and in particular the AL kit) builders club Your build is coming along very nicely and I see you avoided my mistake of having the hawse holes misaligned with the deck - nice catch. For my build, I basically ignored everything AL provided once I completed the side planking. What are your plans? cheers Pat
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Your Titanic is looking very good; some nice detail there Popeye. You're going to have to speak to the boss and let him/her know that the MSW forum believes you should be full-time on the model - PR for them so to speak cheers Pat
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No probs Dave, glad to hear it worked out well. I have left the swivels, anchors etc for the very last fit - as Greg stated, too easy to snag get in the way of the rigging. I am also leaving the jib boom for as long as I can for the same reasons. One of the last things I will fit are the delicate items such as the deadlights, quarter window shutters etc. cheers Pat
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Looking very good there Steve, nice crisp detail! cheers Pat
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I wasn't aware of this build Popeye, but so glad I found it. That's a great build, I'll settle back for the rest of the show cheers Pat
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I wonder, if it materialises, whether they may attempt to challenge the fastest time she set for various trips ? cheers Pat
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That is a neat way to do the boat Mark. I especially like the base (top?) piece you have made with the securing points. Rather than carving out the interior, I thought this was a 'plug' and you would build the boat hull around it? In the next boat (or version if needed), you could draw and cut the slots where required on each slice and then connect by carving the rest of the slot for the frames? Sorry not trying to make extra work for you cheers Pat
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She is coming along very nicely Dave, nice work. Thin CA before painting should do the trick - medium/thick especially may not penetrate especially after painting which may seal the card? cheers Pat
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She is looking mighty grand and very fine there Greg! The detail at scale is impressive and I understand the difficulties, as I am working on HMAS Vampire at the same scale (Frustrating at times eh?) cheers Pat
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Thanks Popeye, Mike, Brian and Mark for looking in - appreciate the interest. Having fun with the rattlin Mike a tad tedious huh? cheers Pat
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