BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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No error Mark, just a 'clarification' Well, after all this I think you have graduated from Jedi Master to 'redo Master' - may the 'wood' be with you! cheers Pat -
You,ve been hiding your progress John, She's coming along very nicely. cheers Pat
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- francis pritt
- mission ship
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Another fine update Druxey; a very interesting log and great build. As a matter of curiosity, you mention using acetone to remove the gold finish - how do you get it off, especially out of the crevices, without damaging the detail or the wood itself? cheers Pat
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- greenwich hospital
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Hi Dennis, great update; glad to hear you are feeling so much better. That material really does look the part (canvas) for the wind/splash breaker on the stanchions- really taking shape now mate! cheers Pat
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Great progress mate; she looks terrific - you have every right to be proud of your efforts. cheers Pat
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- Royal Louis
- Finished
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Looks really good Mark; good luck with the top-down approach to the collar. cheers Pat
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Build and learn in the extreme hey Mark I hope you're logging these 'lessons learned' - sadly i didn't and will probably repeat a few (another lesson learned ). I am sure you will find a solution to your collar issue when you least expect it. I am also recalling a muuch rum befuddled memory from MSW 1 (I think) where someone used the inner foil from cigarette packets for this task also??? cheers Pat
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Hi Mike, to a large degree (generally speaking) the line colour was similar with any difference to the colour ususally based on the material from which the rope was made - Hemp, Sisal, Manilla etc. Most seizings (based on my time in the more modern navy) most seizings were done with sailmakers twine. As Mark said, the protective tarring was applied later. cheers Pat
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Hi Wefalck, some very nice machining; but, we have become accustomed to that from you This is a well designed and made compact tool for the precise sanding of small pieces/parts. One question though, if I may? How do you secure the piece be sanded so that it does not move while sanding. The mitre will assist, but even the slightest movement can have disasterous results on very small pieces. Do you intend fitting hold-downs or such or do you use a non-slip under-pad with the part? cheers Pat
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Kauri is a beautiful wood to work with; looks good Chris. cheers Pat
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That's two of us Dave Mine are permanently fitted now so will need to live with the "extra" cheers Pat
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Mark, I was able to get some chamoise leather (very very thin) from a modelling shop here in Aussie - this might do a reasonable job but I think there were canvas? For my Endeavour I used some calico (well washed; put it on, wet it with a very diluted PVA/water solution, shaped and let it dry. Not perfect but... cheers Pat
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Looking forward to the Bridge Cabin equipment and furniture if previous builds are anything to go by cheers Pat
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Even up close (zoomed) this model is flawless; a testament to the skills applied! cheers Pat
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Ron, try a fabric stiffener (more robust than starch) which is usually available at an arts and crafts, or sewing supplies (Spotlight if in NZ?) - an alternative might be "stop-fray" . You will need to position the ropes initially, spray and reset where necessary. Just a suggestion not sure how permanent these will be though? cheers Pat
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Beautiful! Simply stunning ornamentation Igor; you're aging process is very effective. cheers Pat
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No stopping you now mate; good progress with some excellent details - looks great"! cheers Pat
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I actually thought that was a lovely piece of burl before I read your text - extraordinary! cheers Pat
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Great explanation and a very useful tool accessory Ian - thanks. I think I will need to make a few myself. cheers Pat
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Great detail Greg; so much better than those original resin details. You must have good steady hands - they are soooooo small. cheers Pat
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Wow - thanks for the interest and likes folks - appreciate the encouragement. Greg: yeah does help a tad Thanks for the comments Mark and Chris. cheers Pat
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- Endeavour
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Hi again folks. I have finally motivated myself to make a start on the yards. The following photos (across two posts) shows the process I have used with two yards now formed. After resizing the plans to suit my scale (1:60) I have printed them to form a guide and from which to take measurements - I double check these against the spreadsheet created by Dan Vad to ensure all is accurate. I then mark up the square stock using the 7:10:7 rule for which I have generated a template on my PC. The square stock is then fitted to the jig for milling into the octogan base yard. The jig and the process, are a modification of that recommended by David Antscherl in his "The Fully Framed Model, ....., Vol 4" - thanks David this Volume has been very useful. Once the octagonal has been formed, I spin the stock in my lathe to shape the tapered and rounded outer yard arms - I use a plastic tick strip as my ready reference. This has proven workable for me with the Main and Fore Main yards now shaped (yet to receive the furniture) - I will make a start on the crossjack this week and then onto the upper yards. cheers Pat
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- Endeavour
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