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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Cheaper freight??? let us in on the secret mate - things have jumped exorbitantly this side of the ditch cheers Pat
  2. Thanks Druxey, it has been a pleasure to follow-along as well. cheers (and beers) Pat
  3. Very nice work Mark, they look like they will form excellent bases for your galleries. cheers Pat
  4. Great detail Greg; especially at this scale. cheers Pat
  5. They're coming along really well mate; he'll be paddlin' along before you know it. cheers Pat
  6. Those schooners had beautiful lines Russ; you have done a very good job in bringing these to life in your model. cheers Pat
  7. Some nice rigging work there Dave. Glad you liked the work station - mine was a version developed from the "Crab" built by the late Hubert Sicard - he has some great material on his website "wooden ships for dummies". His site is still up but I am not sure if you can enter if you were not a member at the time of his passing. cheers Pat
  8. Nice work Ron, she is looking good. cheers Pat
  9. Hi Ulises, the method for measuring mast and jib boom / bowsprit angles is also dependent on what tools (levels) you have. I think what you have done verifies you are in the ballpark. One method I use is very similar top your approach, in that I ensure the work surface and waterline are parallel. I then use a digital angle level/protractor which I zero on the work surface and then place on the spar to be measured and read off the angle (adjusting the alignment chocks etc as I go to achieve the correct angle). Another, more crude method I have used is to print off a paper protractor (series of lines at regularly spaced intervals). I stick this to a temporary holder (scrap wood) then use a plumb-bob to align a true perpendicular and adjust the paper protractor to the required orientation and perpendicular alignment. Then read off the spar angle against the lines. Again you need to ensure the work surface and the waterline are parallel and preferably level. I hope that makes sense. I used this method until I purchased the digital angle level which are quite affordable - very often on special for a few dollars at our local hardware outlets such as Bunnings (in Australia). This image of one is taken from an eBay advertisement; it differs from mine in that the bubble level on the top is an additional enhancement. I have not ties etc with this provider with the image used only to illustrate the device. cheers Pat
  10. Hi Druxey, exquisite work! WRT suggestions on Operational display of oars - if there are no crew then not operational? A feathered display might be more realistic? just an opinion - and how else would a viewer appreciate the full detail of those miniature masterpieces? cheers Pat
  11. Chris - For soldering paste (silver and copper) I use Australian Jewellers Supplies / House of Jewellery - http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/soldering-welding-c-95.html?__utma=187725425.995140569.1462256671.1462256671.1462256671.1&__utmb=187725425.0.10.1462256671&__utmc=187725425&__utmx=-&__utmz=187725425.1462256671.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=163156796 They may have some other things you might need also. Try ringing them; I have found them to be very helpful in determining exactly what you need etc (but unfortunately, they are slightly expensive). As to Birchwood Casey Blackening; I bought a large bottle ( more than a lifetimes supply) from a gun shop in Western Melbourne somewhere at a very reasonable price. If interested I can try and track down the name of the place. cheers Pat
  12. Nice work Keith, the ornamentations looks great. Glad to see you have come to grips with the positioning and size of the ports. cheers Pat
  13. Russ, if you had not already thought of/intended to do, a trick the plastic modellers use, is to brush a layer of clear over them to seal and protect them. You just need to ensure it is a non-yellowing clear finish. cheers Pat
  14. All coming along very nicely Dash. Even with the AL kit, bits and bobs were not IAW the required numbers (under and over). I ended up getting a set (PE) of my own hinges. cheers Pat
  15. Congratulations on the Book Druxey, I am sure it will be another fine addition to many libraries. WRT the oars, the extended display over the baseboard in the rowing configuration looks 'busy' in the photo but may be fine on display - but what about the glass/acrylic case fit? If you stay with the existing base board, then perhaps an approach from left field? Have you considered standing them up vertically behind, or at either end of the boat (drill holes into the base boardand make the case a little taller)? Otherwise my vote would remain with oars tossed even if it hides some of the mast details cheers Pat
  16. A brave start Mark; gtood luck with these as they look a bit tricky cheers Pat
  17. A great follow-up on the launches Chuck - she will make a delightful model. cheers Pat
  18. Agree, too many oars outboard would distract I think; either bundled or standing upright but the latter would not be realistic? cheers Pat
  19. A big improvement but still fiddly Good luck! cheers Pat
  20. Some really nice detail there Keith, and a good choice in going the 'proper' route with the plans. cheers Pat
  21. Hi Ken, sorry to have missed your log before this as I limit myself to a certain number of builds otherwise i would spend all day on the PC An interesting subject and build you have going; card is an area I have not yet dabbled in so I will pull up a chair and have a closer read from the beginning. cheers Pat
  22. Beautiful detail and great craftsmanship Greg. cheers Pat
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