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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Some very impressive rigging there Danny - a pleasure to view. Hopefully one day I might get back up to the Port Mac show and catch sight of this beauty in all its glory. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    No problems Boyd, that is what this site is all about - I have learned so much from others on this forum including Chuck, Russ, Danny, Jim Lad, Druxey and man others. Without this site I think the modelling world would be all the poorer. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks for providing this info Tony (and the NMM for allowing it) - some very useful info to be gleaned from these old models. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Mark - I may have to retire. The quality of this rebuild is excellent (is this a reflection of the additional time you have to put into it? ) cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks for that feedback Steve; it confirmed the thoughts I had on it also. Now that I have repaired my foremast, I will also get a chance to add this detail - a very timey 'light bulb' moment by you many thanks again Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in one and all; nice to have that support behind you when you experience these 'issues'. While this instance is not as bad as some other modellers have experienced/related here, for me it was heartbreaking at the time - that is now the 'three' out of the way I hope Boyd, you can never be too careful Danny has opened a very useful thread on correcting oopsies, some of the detail helped me in deciding what to do about this one. The big lesson learned here (apart from being less clumsy) was to take a short break (no pun intended) away from the model to calm down and determine what the actual issue is then look for all possible solutions. When I first saw the damage my immediate reaction was that OH NO! another rebuild coming up. However, when I looked at the extent of the damage and assessed the 'real' issues, it was possible to break the problem into manageable areas - in this case: 1. remove the old futtock shrouds and deadeye lanyards. 2. reglue the breaks on the trees (these were longitudinal and with the grain so should hold) and apply clamping pressure 3. redo the futtock shrouds and relace the lanyards 4. re-tension the crowsfeet where I had to manoeuvre the clamps in and out. et voila - a reasonable repair that I can live with The very close-up photography has highlighted a few craftsmanship issues that I will need to address in future builds The bonus (if you wish to call it that) is that I can revisit the topmast stays and preventers and add the mouse detail that Steve (shipaholic) has found (using Elastoplast) which nicely mimics the woven finish. Thanks again all Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Thanks Steve, I went looking yesterday in a Chemist and couldn't find anything - should have known to go the supermarket Did you use any glue or just the adhesive? If only the adhesive, you obviously believe the tackiness will last a lifetime. It is a really clever idea and one of those that should be in the 'shop notes' for all modellers. Thanks again Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Well folks, I am a little happier today as I have been able to recover the disaster without a major re-rigging of the foremast. I was able to remove the futtock shrouds and redo them but I had to sacrifice the deadeye lanyards in order to get the tension on the futtock shrouds as good as I could. I just hope I have enough of that size scale rope for the remaining shrouds. I used Chuck's hooks again so they matched the other hooks I have used on the shrouds but everything else is scratch built metal hooks. In some ways, the fact these hooks sheared was a bit of a blessing I think as the damage could have been worse if they didn't? There is one small area where the repair is visible but it is under the top and well recessed and only the most ardent rivet counter would notice it I think (circled in the photo). At 1:60 this was a fiddly repair job. I made the repairs in situ using a hypodermic needle to inject white PVA into the sheared sections - as these were a longitudinal braek (with the grain) I thought there would be sufficient strength in the joint. I cleaned up the after trestle/cross trees and applied PVA liberally. I cleaned up with a moistened tissue after I had set in place and clamped - came up better than I had hoped. Thanks all for looking in and the supportive comments - much appreciated. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Mate that wound dressing effect is brilliant - can you advise the brand etc and where you go it. I was going to leave my smaller ones bare wood until I saw this and with the damage issue; gives me a chance to revisit and use this stuff. Thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks to all for looking in. Mark - Me too!!!!! There might be enough meat to add pins but I think if the glue doesn't hold, I will dismantle and redo. You're very kind in your wording John - the expletives were a tad stronger - and a broken magnifier which bore the brunt of my displeasure cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    It's enough to make a grown man cry (well almost) - minor disaster! Just as I was making good progress (as evidenced in the following photo which includes the damage) I made a clumsy move and caught the edge of the foremast lower platform/top snapping all the futtock shroud hooks (plastic ones from Chuck) and breaking trestletrees. The lucky part (if you call this luck) is that the breaks forward were clean and the after crosstree came clear without damage. I was still in the process of rigging the Main Stay and Preventer tackles (which was the item at the centre of this disaster) so, if the regluing looks OK /acceptable when dry tomorrow, I should be able to get by with only replacing the futtock shrouds and hooks - everything else can stay in place. Chuck's plastic hooks look good and will hold the shrouds in normal circumstances; but, as you can see, they are very prone to snap if too much pressure is exerted. This won't stop me using them for the smaller hooks but I will use scratch made for the rest of the hooks where a load is applied. Oh well another few days lost (unless the glue experiment looks bad/does not hold and then it will be a lost week or so as I will have to strip down the foremast tp the lower mast and redo the top and then re-rig. Lesson of the day - WATCH what you are doing and where your arm is
  12. BANYAN
    Great work Dafi - very realistic weathering, especially on the anchor. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Thanks John, Warrior has a lot of common fittings and equipment to the Victoria and what is shown makes complete sense - I will do something similar using Mark's suggestion of clearing the bulwarks and cap rail etc also (thanks Mark) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi folks an update and a further question re HMCSS Victoria. First the updates - there is still some tidy-up work required on the copper plates. Yep - the screw does turn but does not feather . We have yet to add the holding mechanism (from the top) for the screw when it was feathered. As you can deduce, the next work is to complete the major fittings to the hull to allow painting and the deck to be fitted. Therein the question. I have not been able to find any contemporary information about the width (extension out from the hull) of the channels in this era in 1855 (the ship was built on the cusp of the sail to steam transition). I have been able to determine the positioning and lengths of the channels form photographs and lithographs (adjusted for perspective etc) but not the width. According to Lees, the width of the channels was 3 feet for smaller vessels (in the Age of Sail) but this is when there was a large tumblehome. Using 3 feet in the drawings makes the channel look completely inappropriate for size etc. Can anyone provide a pointer or any relevant information for the width of the channels in this era? PLEASE???? cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Glad to hear no serious damage to the model mate - but what an 'adventurous' pair of shipmates / yard workers you have there You'll have to install a reversing beeper on that chair for Ziggy (you will just have to have one of those laying around cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    All I can say Mark is "Sweeeeeet"! cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Very nice detail and finish mate. Swivel guns o a modern sail ship - are they used as signal/ceremonial guns? cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Your Endeavour is looking really good Dave; she'll look a real treat completed. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Great job indeed Anton! With too many years in as an OOW and Ops Room Watch keeper among other duties myself, I can empathise with (and feel envious about) the no watch keeping - That would be an unforgettable and life changing experience on a true sail ship and as you say, what a great asset to your modelling. Winter? in WA??? (HA!) but a great chance to recuperate and many more hours to apply to your model Enjoy the cruise to those wonderful sites. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Finally had some time to take a good look through your build log; and a what a pleasure to see your progress through this model - a very nice build indeed. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Great rigging Danny (and very timely for me ) cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi, I have given up with trying to preserve those horrid belts which I think are the main cause of many of the issues experienced. I am currently in the process of trying to find better belts or even converting to timing or V belts but that will entail new pulleys to suit. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Thanks all, the encouragement is greatly appreciated. I am trying to divide my time between the Endeavour, Victoria and the preparatory work for my resin model (HMAS Vampire). The latter has taken a lot of research time (very much assisted by John - Jim Lad) in getting the details for 3D replacement parts of the entire superstructure sorted. I have decided to put a little more emphasis on Endeavour for the next few weeks in the hope of getting the majority of the standing rigging (minus yards and ratlines) completed by the end of this month - but don't hold me to that cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Well folks, a long overdue update I am back to the point (plus a little more) of where I wast at before discovering the issues with the scaling of my upper spars. The following photos show the comparative scale (size) difference of the error and a couple of "not good enough" efforts, and a shot of where I am at. The dowel is a temporary fit until the yards are manufactured and there only to put a little structure into the jeer blocks and associated rigging. I have also been busy drawing up the plans and doing some of the work on the Club's build of HMCSS Victoria shown below. there is still some tidy-up work needed on the copper plates (in places). cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    This is a really nice build John - a very unique and nice looking model. cheers Pat

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