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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Hi Eberhard, perhaps the item was an 'axiometer',(tell-tale), which had been introduced into RN service by 1835; for the rudder or wheel. Some ships had a double, some a single - the attached is a double (one for wheel, one for rudder) but I cut it off Your example may have stood independently. The picture below is the wheel from HMS Nelson (1814). I have also attached an example of its mechanism (NMM Collections – ZAZ6817). cheers Pat
  2. Very nice work Eberhard, certainly looks like wood. "Victoria' used rope also but made from 'green hide' kept well oiled. I think your assumptions are spot on , especially for ships still using wood wheels (rather than iron etc). cheers Pat
  3. Very nice work Steven; the use of your very nicely carved crew really puts a lot of 'perspective' (and colour) into your builds. cheers Pat
  4. Most definitely interested , many thanks for letting us know. Being a 'custom' produced item, will this make it more expensive? I understand there may be set-up costs etc, but if enough interest is shown, would it be worth tooling up a production line again? I ask this as the international postage of products from the US has increased so much that I have stopped buying except for some very specific items. These blades were very good, and if costs remain reasonable I would certainly be placing an order. cheers Pat
  5. Not hard to pay close attention to such a very nicely made model; especially with the research that has gone into it. Thanks for the explanation. cheers Pat
  6. That would make an interesting diorama - was it ever done? Either way, an interesting addition to the model. cheers Pat
  7. A great testament to your modelling skills Rob, and to the great research you and others have completed. The only (very minor) point I have is that in one of the shots (midships on the upper deck), the base of the lower masts 'appears' a little thick compared to the photo. However, that is likely due to the camera (especially in the lens qualities between the old and yours) which will drastically distort the perspective and create differences in foreshortening of that part of the deck space - I know you have measured this so is bound to be right. cheers Pat
  8. Sensational joinery; your attention to detail and the quality of your work is outstanding. cheers Pat
  9. Very nice detail indeed Greg. Great t see you constantly looking to improve your models - this one for example already looked good; but this will add that extra flourish. cheers Pat
  10. The overall look with the toned down masts looks great Rob; very nice! cheers Pat
  11. Wonderful detail and quality cheers Pat
  12. Very nice 'smithing' yet again Keith; impressive! One would be a radar platform, the other for a GPS or small satcom aerial (or even a TV aerial) I think. cheers Pat
  13. Randy, further to Ed's excellent advice, I have made up a small tube extension for the end of my vac hose that results in a very useful accessory. The flexibility of a thin walled plastic tube allows me to manoeuvre it into tight places - you can find many sizes at an Aquarium supplier). Use one of those step down reduction adapters to fit the hose as best possible; then use telescoped tube of various sizes to get as close as possible to the final size you want, then pack any gaps with silicon sealer or use tape if only narrow gaps. If you push the tubes further back one into each other without creating a long series of stepped tubes, you end up with a short fat end that can slide inside the adapter. Put a bit of pantyhose/stocking between/over the adapter and thickened tube end when sucking up small parts (rather than having to dig them out of the vacuum bag cheers Pat
  14. Clever use of the toothpicks Brian; those oars turned out nicely. I have seen examples of painted oar handless but not their blade tips. The dark paint on the tips, in the photos at least, appears to foreshorten the blade and make them look flat ended - perhaps not a problem to the naked eye? cheers Pat
  15. The yards and other spar look really good Keith; nice work. cheers Pat
  16. Looks good Rob. The red is a little 'loud' but sure is distinctive - I don't think this appears 'in your face' and is acceptable, especially if you are putting a matt finish on. cheers Pat
  17. You're making good progress now, hopefully you won't have the same issues with the rigging (what to include/exclude that is). cheers Pat
  18. Couldn't agree more with the previous correspondents Keith - you black (sorry gold) -smithing and especially the way you approach each piece is always worth viewing. In the words of that cheeky young mite , " Please sir, can I have some more". cheers Pat
  19. I admire your openness (about errors) and work ethic to get it right Rob. cheers Pat
  20. Ditto mate; the blue just seems a little too bright for my taste - but as others have said - your model, your choice. cheers Pat
  21. Look forward to seeing your rigging progressing Keith. Welcome to my rigging world (research, uncertainty and frustration) . One author I have found very useful for the rigging of our period is 'Seamanship' by Commander G.S. Nares of 1868. Others that may help are 'Seamanship' by S.B. Luce also 1868 and 'The Boy's Manual of Seamanship and Gunnery', 2nd Edition, by C. Burney, 1871. All of these are available as free PDF downloads. cheers Pat
  22. Also doubles a chisel - see also tools used convert small project to large. Perhaps the most useful - also paint lid opener, weeding tool, paint and rust scraper... but most importantly, for punching holes in the top of a beer can when the ring-tab parts! 🥳 cheers Pat
  23. Your tooling skills are every bit, if not better, than your modelling skills Eberhard. An artisan! cheers Pat
  24. Great work on 'chapeling those masts Rob, very nice indeed despite your so called imperfections. cheers Pat
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