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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi Roger, not sure if you are aware of this info sheet from American Beauty. On seeking their advice I was forwarded this information which may help. The particular point I am tryng t emphasise is the heat point is around the point of resistance, which they reinforce using special probes. May be worth considering when making yours? I have no financial or other affiliation with the company; simply they have been very helpful and accommodating in creating a product I needed, and in how to use it properly. " The first thing is to better understand "Resistance Soldering: How it Works and What are the Benefits" as provided in this linked document. The type of thermal energy provided is based on both resistance and conduction of the converted (high amperage, low voltage) current from the power unit. The current provided is A/C so there is no + or - when attaching the handpiece or accessories to the output terminals. The resistance to current flow causes the heat and is why we incorporate the materials used in our electrodes and elements. The conduction path is intended to have as little resistance as possible and is the reason for the materials used for the handpiece and accessory components. The copper plating on the electrodes is to improve current conduction to the tip so that the heat developed is localized to the point of contact as much as possible. If you are experiencing excessive heat where the clip of the current return harness is in contact with the component or work piece the cause is resistance or poor conduction. This issue may be caused by oxidation,dirt or other contamination affecting the required current flow. Another cause might be the location of the clip or the materials it is clipped onto. As long as the materials are conductive (copper, brass etc.) the clip does not need to be as close to the intended solder joint, but if the materials are less conductive (stainless steel) the clip should be in closer proximity to the joint." Hope this helps. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Sorry for the long delays and spasmodic posting of updates, but I have been somewhat distracted from the build by research. I am at the point I cannot progress until I finalise the rigging and belaying plans, and noting the unique rigging arrangements, this is taking a lot longer than I anticipated. Progress is good and I and in the final stages of that which has allowed me to make some small progress on the build. I have completed the lower spars and adding the fittings now. I will post some photos of them soon. In the meantime I have progressed the sheet bitts as shown below. I must thank Mike Shanks for his assistance in CNC cutting these for me. I drew up the plans for these and for the PE. Even at 0.2mm the PE looks slightly oversized, but the best I could get done locally. For reference, the brass strips along the cross-piece is only 1mm wide and I tried to simulate the screwheads (not that successful though). The single bitts are placed , one each side abaft the mizen, while the two sets with cross-pieces are placed before the fore and main masts. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    A very fine example of your modelling craftsmanship, your workmanship is exemplary. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Great to see you back in the workshop Keith; I have missed your updates. Another fine example of your techniques, machining skills and execution mate, they look great. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Ditto, that planking looks great Druxey. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, makes more sense now. I buy a lot of their burrs and drills, so I will have a poke around their site again. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Your skills and build quality continue to amaze bitao; very much enjoy following this log. Eberhard, any chance of a photo of one of those rivet tools; I am having a hard time visualising what you describe I hope you don't mind bitao? cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Those spars look good Keith, all starting to come together now. You just need to be a 'little' patient cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    I had wondered what had side tracked you Patrick; nice to see another well executed miniature for your collection. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Nice job Steven, the finish looks just like an iron casting. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Looks good Denis, another for your collection of beauties. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    I don't know how I missed this Druxey; I hope there is room for a late-comer to the party. Seeing what you achieved in other builds, this should be another beauty. I, and I am sure many others, appreciate the tutorial on how to develop a boat/building plug. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Looking mighty fine Keith, some lovely detail emerging. It reminds me I have to get back to the workbench - too much time spent researching the rig (but almost complete now). cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hopefully all will be sorted for you quickly mate; know where you are at as I have the same issue. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Those blocks look great Eberhard, especially at the scale you are working. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Some very fiddly work nicely accomplished there Eberhard. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    She is looking great Denis, a good job on the paint. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Looking great Doc! cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Very nice work; as Druxey says, a pity some of this lovely detail will be obscured. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    A very nice build you have going here Brian, especially noting this is your first scratch build. The level of detail and clean work are admirabl. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Lovey work, and another successful collaboration between you both. Another very fine model in the making! cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Greg, if it helps, I had a 3D print of 'Vampire' done at 1:350 through Shapeways. You can get the front deck assembly as a separate piece and you could cut away the unwanted bits? cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Just to be clear guys, it is not the V&W class but the Daring class I am talking of. These were the follow-on type to the Tribal and had a very similar hull form. This is a picy of the steam capstan arrangement on Vampire . The capstan stayed much the same even after the major upgrades in the late 60's; but, if you can find a picture of the pre-modernisation it might show a more-correct version.. Some of the surrounding structure, such as the cable ramps, drip/oil dam etc may be much diufferent but the steam winch is probably much the same - these were steam driven with the steam pressure dials ev ident in the central (black) box. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Again Greg, the Daring Class had a steam winch also; probably of the same type. I have photos of Vampire's capstan if that helps. Any of the 3D printed steam capstans of that period would work I think. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    I can't state with definitive evidence, but the basic hull form of the Tribals look very similar to the later 'Daring' class, to which plan the Aussie Navy's Vampire, Vendetta and Voyager were constructed. It might be relatively safe to look at the plans of those ships (readily available) to establish the shape of a bow curve? cheers Pat

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