Gregory

This is pretty close..  I would visit a fabric shop and try to find a little smaller mesh tulle..

I skimmed through the instructions and see no purpose for that hole..  Perhaps Chris will chime in..

It doesn't show up in the AOTS book as a hole...

It seems to coincide with some molding, but I can't tell to what extent the molding is modeled in the Vanguard kit..

Note how the text also says there is a breeching loop, of which there is none..

One more note about the ring on your foremast..

Your ring might be a misplaced shoulder for the main boom. 

The fore mast doesn't have a boom so the shoulder would be out of place there.

P.S.

If you haven't seen it already, a real nice log for this kit  with a lot of detail is this one by Sam (SRC )

There was rarely if ever a continuous ring of material around the mast at the deck.  What you usually see is a modeling convention.

The mast coat might have been tarred canvas placed over a series of wedges.

Here is an example decorative looking fitting from AgesOfSale

Just  use the ring on your mast, or cut another one to make some wedges to place around the base of the mast and embellish them as you see fit.

Your shroud rigging at the channels really looks good..

Very nice macro photography..  What camera are you using?

With everything I said, I think cloth can be used to good effect depending on the subject.

If you take a look at my Mary, I am happy with the way the sails came out.  They provide a look I was going for that had nothing to do with

a concern that the stitching is way out of scale.

I was just being preemptive, knowing there are those here who are prone to advise against sewn sails.

I think you should explore your creative goals when it come to model ship building.

5 hours ago, Valkyrja68 said:

Right now I'm attempting to look up making sheets/sails of cloth. I've found some on paper and some on plastic but nothing yet on cloth that helps me...the search continues 

While not the final word, you will find the use of cloth, that requires sewing, is not well received here due to the challenges of achieving a scaled look.

The weave of the cloth and the size of stitches detract from an otherwise finely detailed model.

There are some models displayed with fairly decent cloth sails, but I don't recall anyone sharing technique to any extent.

There is an excellent tutorial on making sails with silkspan to be found here:

Considering this project ( Medway Longboat ) is 1:24 scale, it reflects the limitations of trying to get a good effect with cloth.

I searched for 'cloth + sails' and got a few pages, but it remains to be seen what you might filter out of it..

https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=cloth %2B sails&quick=1

Two or three hundred years is pre-historic as far as I'm concerned..

3 minutes ago, Jaager said:

...a careful check of the hull shape using the S.I. plans would prudent. 

The SI plans ( which I haven't seen )  must have been derived from the NMM plans which are available at the link I provided above.

The MS plans and the Mamoli plans which I have, match the NMM plans very closely as far as the general arrangement is concerned.

@Dave_E

If you have decided to go with MS, I'm sure you have searched up some of the logs.

I hope you found this one:

It' stalled for now, but there is a lot of progress and some great examples of technique..

Nice work Dave.. 

What is the official name of that chuck fixed to the Proxxon mill?  It looks really useful..

 I have never seen a topic here where someone talked about " bashing " and had to explain what they meant.

I could have missed it, though.

Terms and languages, evolve. 

I always take " bashing " to mean adding  something   or improving (subjective ) on something that was not included in the kit.

Post pictures in your log and I'm sure you get will plenty of help.  We have many members who have built the Revell Connie.

I am inclined to vote for the MS kit..  It will have the best plans and fittings in general.

Try to catch it on sale when ModelExpo is having a ' free shipping ' add on..   Subscribe to their news letter.

I don't know if you are aware of ModelExpo's policy of replacing any parts for any reason.  it's a great reason to do business with them.

A good thing to remember, is if you have a particular kit in mind, just run it by us here and we can tell you if it is not welcomed here for some reason.

The Mamoli kit was my first wood kit over 25 years ago.  No internet, so I relied on what I gleaned from Seaways Ships in Scale and several books I acquired.  I found it to be a great learning experience.  I just wasn't aware of the shortcomings of the kit because I didn't have anything to compare it to.

Here it is, mostly finished.  I gave the finished model to a relative, and have since recovered it in very bad shape.

If I get around to doing a scratch POB model, this would be high on my list..  I think the ornamentation would be an interesting CNC wood carving project.

7 hours ago, Jaager said:

.....the plans are about as complete as you are likely to get - outside of a monograph -

Actually, there are several sheets of high resolution, detailed  plans at WikiCommons that also reside at the NMM.

Cormorant ex Rattlesnake

ModelExpo also sells their plans which are derived from the NMM plans, and would be useful for making a POB model.

There are mast and yard dimensions included.   

The major shortcoming of either kit would be fittings and details..   

2 hours ago, georgeband said:

The gaff itself is often fixed and cannot be lowered or dipped.

What is your reference for this?

Dr Pr shows throat halyards for the fore and main masts of schooners.

as does Petersson in " Rigging Fore and Aft .... ", with the caveat that Petersson is looking at a contemporary model..

How much precision do you need?

Even with the OP example I am having trouble seeing where the error lies as the two examples are shifted.

When I take the image and line up the markings, they appear pretty close to me..

My altered image.

If you have two rulers that are different, how do you know which one is wrong?

Updating with a few rigging details..  Here are the shrouds tied off.

The backstays.

The mast head

I'm using these hooks from Crafty Sailor.

The Main Stay.

The ensign.

Thanks for stopping by..

The thing that is hard to wrap your head around, is that the curved plank lays flat on the hull and appears to be straight when viewed head on..

But after you have done it a few times, it comes quite naturally.. 

Here is a good example of the contemporary model of Winchelsea.

Those planks would look crazy curved if laid out flat.

1 hour ago, georgeband said:

Even if it did have reef points it would be suicidal for a crew to try to reef it

I think 99% of the work the sailors did aloft would be suicidal for any of us today..😁

1 hour ago, rudybob said:

My next chore and don't laugh to hard was figuring which way to bend it.

No one is laughing..  This is not an easy concept to grasp, and it's great the way you have tackled the problem.

Let me review a couple of things.

This will work even if you are going to use the clamp and bend method.

I mentioned how I put masking tape on the area to be planked.  You can trace along the edge of the plank that is in place.

In this case it was the edge near my pencil.

The other edge of the plank has to be estimated.  If you are using pre-cut planks you can account for any tapering you have done.

When you lay the tape out flat, it will look like this.  You can use this as a pattern for your bending station.

My plank tapered from 5 to 4mm, and I trimmed along the bottom edge.  In your case, working up from the garboard, I would trim what would be the top edge when the boat is upright.  You want to preserve the shape of the plank that is already in place because it will be a perfect fit.

This is my plank I cut from veneer, but you can do the same thing with clamping a strip..

Let me know if I can shed any more light on this...  We really look forward to seeing your progress..

Perhaps you can see how you could have used this method to shape your garboard.  You could have used the tape to trace along the rabbet..

The scarfs are a real nice extra touch!