Gregory

That would get my vote but I can't seem to find them at the Syren store..

Very nice butt pattern..

Looks a lot better than the original thread from the kit!

Didn't we talk about that earlier?

What does the plank look like laid out flat?

To lay flat on the boat needs to curve in a longitudinal direction, because it is laying on a curved surface..

A favorite method is to bend the plank  as seen here by Chuck in a Chapter from Cheerful.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/ChapterchapFour.pdf

There is another method called ' spiling ', which I talked about recently in another topic you started.

P.S.

For spilling you do need wider plank stock than the uniform planks, so it may not be practical if you do not have a source for that.

As my example shows, the planking material would have to be about 2x the final plank..

You can achieve the same result with the bending method shown above with the clamps.

Thanks Glenn and Dave.

Glenn, your build log of Cheerful is my source of inspiration for many rigging details.  Your close up photography is priceless.

@Dave

Quote

 

I’m not to the rigging portion of my build yet, but I’m going to follow yours because you are doing a fabulous job of photographing your rigging work! Looks great! Thank you

 

  I'll try to provide some more detail and a chance for you  to avoid my mistakes..  😃

I mentioned earlier that I have the Cheerful plans, which I am following fairly closely.

Make sure you check some of the Cheerful builds..   They are my go-to for Cutter rigging.  Particularly Glenn's which I mentioned above.

I'm having to deviate from a pure cutter rig because this model has a bowsprit plus a jib boom.  I will be improvising and deviating from actual practice in some respects. 

Thanks for dropping in.  Makes me feel amiss in not updating more often, but   work progresses slowly.

I have completed most of the standing rigging and the running rigging is coming along.

I used the laser to cut the spars.  I make them with two parts that I finish individually then join together.

For me it makes for easier handling than one long piece..

Ready to be hoisted.

\

A pennant that will fly from the top of the topmast that still needs to be completed.

Setting up the shrouds...

There is quite a bit of other rigging completed..   I just need to take the time to make some pictures that I am ready to share..

As far as  securing the line, I just do a half hitch at the belaying point.  Dab it with diluted white glue and cut it short. The coil you make should hide the cut.

In this post, Glenn shows how he made coils ( hanks ) to good effect. ( click on arrow top right )

 If you search for ' coils ' you should get a lot of useful information..

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

One would need to find some information, what kind of pigments the Admiralty actually prescribed.

To what extent did Captains try to follow Admiralty recommendations with regard to paint color..

In the end, Dave is the captain of this ship.😀

Model Expo has their Beautiful Blocks

Better than most kit blocks..

Did you check out Modelers Sawmill, one of our sponsors?

They offer a wide variety of walnut strips.  $2.50 for 10 14" strips.

They take custom orders at no extra charge if you don't see what you need in their lists.

I suspect the quality will be better than most strip wood packages at other vendors.

IR Film requires filters to eliminate unwanted parts of the light spectrum.

Current night vision technology depends on the different parts of the IR spectrum.

And is accomplished with sensors that respond to the IR spectrum.

Higher quality  images depend on better optics but glass is not a problem in itself.

There is thermal IR, emitted by an object and  IR that is reflected off an object. Near infra-red and mid Infra-red..

How Night Vision Works

AVS = Armed Virginia Sloop, the type of ship in this log..

Here are Chucks basic recipes using various   Mara ( size/weight )..

https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=602941 405.12 kB · 158 downloads

His sizes are in inches, so you can multiply by 25.4 to get mm.

His smallest recipe is .oo8"  which is .2mm.  He uses 3 strands of Mara 120, so 2 strands might get you close to .15.

That is really small stuff.

The kit supplied sizes may not be a good match for actual ( scale ) practice..  Of course that opens another can of worms, because actual practice might have called for many more sizes that those specified in a kit..

.5mm Will fall between the .018 and .025 in the recipe.  You could experiment to get something to fall between those two.

Three strands of 70 sounds like it would be close.

Chuck's recipes are for his Rope Rocket, so a different type of rope maker might produce different results.

Are you milling your own planks?

I like the way you are getting a subtle amount of variation to make it interesting.

Incredible work!

I need two l's to do it right..😀

Something else if it's not too late..  The 2D plan doesn't take into account any curvature in other dimensions at this point..

Some spilling or  other method may be in order, even though the amount of curving at the garboard is very slight..

Here is an example where I used masking tape to trace the shape of a plank on my Resolution.

Note how the shape of the plank when laid out flat, looks more curved than when traced on the hull.

Then it lays perfectly flat when placed on the hull..

You will be looking for something like this..

 Brass Chainplate with Deadeye

Your components should be similar..

You might consider Cheerful..

It requires more or less scratch work depending on which of mini kits you decide to go with..

If you are not ready to mill your own strip wood Another of our sponsors Modelers Sawmill has a wood package for Cheerful..

PS

If Cheerful seems a bit ambitious,  any double planked kit that appeals to you, and appears to have a good framework, will give you a chance to practice the planking twice, as you can use 3rd party wood to cut and shape proper planks.

The draw back of most plank on bulkhead kits is that they don't have enough bulkheads to form a smooth one planking approach.

This can be overcome to some extent by filling in the space between bulkheads with some suitable wood.

Not that I would plank a model like this, but look at all the crazy drop planks in this planking expansion of Cruizer class..

Very similar to Speedy/Flirt ..

Cruizer_class_

You might consider a drop plank..  You could practice here and include on 2nd planking.

Pic from Chucks Winchelsea..

It helps with not having too narrow planks at the stem.

3 hours ago, GeneUselman said:

I guess I am amazed that there seems low interest in lasers...

There is lots of interest from those who are buying kits from  our members Chuck and Chris, owners of Syren Ship Model Company and Vanguard Models, respectively..

Take a look at The Winchelsea project and the many Sphinx logs to see what these kit designers have accomplished with Lasers.

I have done a lot of laser work in my Resolution build..

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

I went to the address above and it comes up to their home page. 

The link for me goes to the Bounty page. Note that the word " Bounty " is part of the URL.

Scrolling down I see:

When I click on "Instructions And Downloadable Contents", I see:

So, hopefully there are some instructions in there..

Downloadable instructions here:

https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty-frigate-8421426228106.html

Have you ever worked with copper leaf?

The link  above starts off talking about gold, but makes it clear it is copper if you choose it from the various options.

It might make a good covering for your existing work.  My experience is that it goes on almost like  paint and is seamless.

I used it to cover the the cupola of the companionway on my Resolution.

It goes on as very shiny copper, but a patina can be created in various ways.

1 hour ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Gene Bodnar’s copper plating tutorial is in the Articles section of this forum.

Might be a little hard to find if one doesn't  know their way around the site..  You have to go to the NRG home page and look at Resources, then find your way to "ARTICLES AND HOW TOS", then find the article by Gene.

https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/CopperSheathingaHull.pdf