Gregory

4 hours ago, BenD said:

Not only is that way easier but the twisted end will probably hold glue better.

I've found the twisted end can be twisted into a hole like a screw and require no glue..

That looks real good!

As long as you let the headstock move you shouldn't have to worry about breakage..  If it gets too tight it will start to kink..

For those who want to be more challenged, here is a fine example by Johann .

Goodwin shows a mouse on Alert in his AOTS..

He references a rigged model, Hawke, but I can't tell from the images if the mouse is on the model..

Great to see you back at work..

10 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Chris Watton is one of the best in the business.

Don't forget, Chris is a member here and always quick to answer any questions...

You might consider one of the smaller boats from Vanguard like Erycina, Nisha Fifie ‘Lady Eleanor’, Zulu ‘Lady Isabella’..

You can download the manual for free  for some if not all of these at the Vanguard site.  The vanguard manuals are like practicums, and there are many logs here at MSW..

If you want to order in North America,  another of our sponsors Crafty Sailor has many of these kits..

Back when I was building my first kit  almost 30 years ago, and there was no internet, I came across the idea of beeswax dissolved in turpentine.

I think it may have been Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, or an article in Seaways. This allowed it to really soak the line, and the turpentine would evaporate after a while.  I still had to use an alcohol lamp to get rid of the fuzzies.  I still have that ship ( in pieces ) and the rigging line, I believe it is cotton, is quite stiff.

It looks OK..  I believe the beeswax helps it from being affected by moisture, which is not a problem with polyester..

The fuzzies are not as much of a problem with polyester, depending on the thread.  Seems to be minimal with the Gutterman I use for making my own rope..

Nice jig and nice work..

I have experimented with bees wax but did not find it to be a solution to the fuzzies..

The flame  ( alcohol lamp )  is the best way , but takes practice and care.

For the UK, I have heard Amati sells  pretty good rope.  Available at Cornwall Model Boats..

Most kit supplied rope leaves a lot to be desired,

If you are planning on building more boats, kits or otherwise, you might look into making your own rope..

If you don't want to make your own then  one of the sources already provided would be the way to go..

26 minutes ago, modeller_masa said:

Which one is the most accurate way to copy the shape of frames onto the other side?

Why do you feel this is important at this point?

Small variations can be taken care of with shims or fairing to get a smooth run of the planking.

The only legitimate way to get symmetry is to have templates that you use to compare to both sides..

Did the kit come with bulkhead drawings..  These could have been used before assembly to make corrections.  At this point they could be used to make templates.

'Knot' is also a verb..🙂

6 minutes ago, paul carruthers said:

the X is OK,

I was trying to be funny, since X looks the same upside down..

Sorry..

Great Idea for re-packaging a piece of veneer and calling it a un-cut wood deck, and selling it for 2-3x original cost.😃

Not to mention a  really course grain for this sort of thing..

I have found maple veneer to not look too bad.

Interesting perspective.  What is your basis for saying that?

Every book I have about knots includes the clove hitch..

If  I Google " clove hitch ", I get 2 million hits, an at least the first two pages all talk about knots..

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

BTW, the amount of knot-making on a model is often overestimated. T

If you don't count a couple thousand clove hitches for the ratlines..😃

This kit is on my soon to do list, and seeing where others go astray and how they overcame it, is a great learning experience.

  Not everyone is willing to share their 'mistakes'  in a meaningful way.

You have a great build going.

Looks right-side up to me..  The X might be upside down..😀

Short of replacing a plank, I would fill with a sliver of wood and sand flush..  Will not be visible on the upright model.

1 hour ago, BranPie said:

That's a kit I'm also considering.

Just in case you didn't notice, the Cheerful kit only includes the bulkheads, keel parts and framework, including the full set of plans.

It requires a lot of scratch work or additional mini kits for cannon, windless, gratings and such.  It requires additional wood for decking, planking and masting.  

It is a great project when you are ready to do a lot of scratch work.

I would back fill the holes with some kind of scrap.  Just something to provide a base to lay in some filler.

Scrap paper should even work..

23 minutes ago, Clueless said:

So, what's the rope walker used for that the server can't do?

The Rope Walk makes rope..  I don't think the server can do that, unless he has some kind of combo machine I am unaware of..

10 hours ago, turangi said:

But, if I mounted them in a drill to make multiple holes they wobbled like a hula dancer.

As I would expect them to do.

But, to continue to be argumentative, I have a genuine Dremel keyless chuck 0-1/8 that runs true as a judge for $12.  The Knock offs are 2 for $12 ..

I have no doubt that the Staretts are very fine tools,  but I am not inclined to by a Rolex just because I need to know the time..😀